ok i can still try and help you out some. i know you said you try the long links and short one correct? i would like to know what are you setting now.

Mine are something like this for outside

Front shock on tower are in the middle
on the arm outer hole.
fluid i think is 27.5 [you might try a 30 weight]
springs are yellow
sway bar is 1.8 you might want a thicker one.
i think i run 3 mill on the inner camber link and middle hole on hub. stock hob
front piston i think are the 1.2 hole
front clicker is the 20 locked i never did like the under drive at all i glued my front clicker down.
front dif is 10000
opt steering rack is in the hole closet to the front if you have it it more aggressive that way.
-2 camber.

Rear of the truck is shock is middle hole on tower
blue springs i think sometime the front green in the rear same shock location these are the most balanced shock spring i could find.
outer hole on arm.
sway bars is 1.5 you might try like the 1.8 if you got it.
rear camber link is in the inner hole with 2mm.
middle hole on stock hub
-2 camber
i would try the 3-3 block if you got it will get you more forward bite. if you got the cash try the m2c block and run the 3.5 toe. if you got long straight the more toe you have in the rear the more forward bite you will have but lose traction on turns.
rear diff is also 7000
i think i run the 1.3 piston in the rear.
oil is either 25 or 27 weight.
since you high bite track i would try medium length camber links since you said you dont like the long and short link are normal ran on outside lose tracks.
also i sometime run 7000 in the front and 3000 in the rear if traction is bad. but since you got high bite i would think you would like the front around 10000 and more and the rear around 5000 or more.
i also use the vts slipper. i build my shock dead so no rebound at all.
Normal on a in door high bite track you would want to stiffen up the car and go up on some thing like shock oil, diff, and even tighten up the slipper if traction allows it. some even drop down the pinion size so they get more torque. so you might have to play with it. i would think a negative camber two seem to always be a safe spot on all track. if you need more turn in you can add some toe out to the front but i would advise against it if you got say like a 150 foot straight it might cause the front to wander to much. I also think you might try the exotoke hubs since they have those upright hub and you can really get you camber nailed in with those.

also i would think for you shock oil try 30 weight around with the 1.2 piston that should get you in the ball park you might have to go up to like a 35 weight in the front. if you need some more or less pack some where try like the 1.2 in front and 1.3 in the rear. remember you piston is what controls you car from bottoming out on jumps. shock oil slow downs or speed up how fast the shock absorb the bombs. camber length and height control you traction. and ackemen will that a little confusing but if you got the option steering rack put it in the closes hole to the front of the car and you will have the most ackerman you can get.
I hope this help some if you are lost on something maybe i can help you on that part there.

i almost forgot ride height front i always do arms leveled and for the rear i do bones level. i do this on 7 different cars and it has never failed me yet. if you dont have any jump which i doubt there is no jumps you should be about the same maybe if anything a mill or two lower. second thing is does the car feel lazy or want to roll over at all in the high speed corners. mi really dont know how much you know about setting up a car. so please if i said something that you know please dont take it the wrong way. just trying ti give as much info as i can to help. if you need me to explain something i confused you on just ask and i will do my best.

let me see if i can get this said right with you raising the rear in hole by the tower which is most common you are raising the roll center which is good if your traction rolling. this will make the rear end more stable. also it will make the front bite in more and nose down kinda attitude but be more stable coming out. Now when you rasie them both and the hub it changes how you camber works when in a high speed turn. so let say you flying that turn and and you had it setup for -2 camber now when the car get it roll and compress that -2 camber now become like -4 camber the more the car rolls but on power it will maintain that -2 on power in the turns. Yoh have to think of it like this the more roll you get the more the inside of the car is gonna go down while it starts to pull the tire to the -4 but if you on power it grip more in the turn.of power it will not make so much of a difference. It kinda cancle it out. But all this happen just before the roll over part hits. And this move will make you want the rear sway bar cause it will pull the rear inside tire down keeping the car leveled. Into the turn and allow more roll Before the car tips over. I think this is the best way I can word this one. Or at lest this is how I understand this mod.

yeah, you really don't want to raise the link position on the rear tower if you have traction issues now.

I raised this when on carpet high traction as I was traction rolling immediately.

Not sure if you have it already, but you really want the M2C rear toe in block for more toe in. Prior to that, on the stuff we race on our here its so loose that I could basically do pirouettes down the straight as I had so little traction.

Add that toe in the rear locked the vehicle in. I could pitch it like a losi hard and drive it out of turns very fast.

Never understood that apparently out of all AEs offroad vehicles, this one doesn't have the option for more rear toe from the manufacturer.

Maybe they can make some rear hubs that have inserts in the next revision as well as a similar setup that M2C came up with.

Personally the +8mm mod that sounds similar to what you are doing I felt I got alittle bit more traction from it, but then it seems that position on the tower counter acts any gains there. So I would suggest take it off and start from there.

Can you post your full setup. Are there vids of the track?

Will I see I am not the only one trying to help. Hey cain I did re write why the mod counter reaction reason. it a post above you can You read it and see if I worded right. Or Correct for that matter. The first way I typed it made no sense after I read it lol.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. Have read through all your posts and it makes sense. I will take those thoughts with me to the track tomorrow and keep trying. Might see if I can snap a video and bring it back here.

one thing to take with that is very helpful is the Mark Pavadis setup guide.

Also the Xray guide is great to have with.

I never could get a good handle on a way to explain the +8mm mod the best. I know that its been put on here a few times by some individuals I trust like Krio.

Me, I just tried it to see what I thought.

I think the main thing with it is that the fact that you are also raising the inner link position on the tower needs to be factored in to what you are seeing. I would like someone to test the mod personally by leaving the inner position the same at some setting, test before mod on the hub, and then after, and comment on what they see.

hope all has been well by you!

What slipper setup do you have if you still run the slipper not the cdiff,
the thing that helped me the most with that problem was the coupled front slipper mod.

I have an SC10 4WD that I am getting together and have a battery question-

In addition to the 4WD I have an SC10 and an SC10B. I would like to be able to run one type/spec of battery for all three. I have been running 5000 30c in the 2WD vehicles. It is time for new batts for both those so it would be good if I could interchange batts among all three. Does the 4WD need more battery Mah and C than the other two? Not racing at this point, just bashing around, on track and elsewhere.

Comments appreciated, thanks.

I use Nanotech 5800 mah 2s with a discharge of I believe of 25. I'll have to look but they are plenty I think. Maybe a little more discharge but I'm not going to change for a little punch.

The tracks I run on are not really speed tracks I should add.

Running Exotek Slipper Locker. Works good. Took me a while to get the right setting of the slipper. Slipper dialed last night and truck was hooking up a lot better. I think I had it way too tight before and the rear was over powering the front.

Still cant drive this truck but I see so much potential. Piston screw came undone in the main pulling out of the shock body.

What runtime do you need to make and do you plan to run Saddles or sticks in the sc10 4x4?

reason I say that is you can run saddles in your other vehicles, but options for runtime maximums are lower with saddles. I think its about 6000mah or so right now for reputable packs.

And if you need to make say 8 minutes or more runtime, you may be just making it with your 5000mah packs or not making runtime even at 8 minutes for the SC10 4x4.

That said, if you run stick packs, variety of good batteries out there for good prices. the 6500mah packs from SMC and promatch are pretty cheap and have excellent warranties, with high C ratings too.

How much your SC10 4x4 weighs can also affect the type of runtime and battery capacity you need. If you plan to go with a lite setup, yo uwon't need as much. If you are on a track where a heavier SC10 4x4 works better, you need better packs in my opinion.

The current batteries are hard case stick Lipos. I would like max run time as the trucks are mostly for my 12 YO to drive around(he breaks them, i fix them ) Not racing yet so max speed/punch isn't required. The main thing I want is, if possible, to have 6 or 8 or 10 batts that are interchangeable between the 2WD, 4WD, and SC10B. And I will need to figure out what parts are needed so the 4WD can use sticks.

The sc10 4x4 can use sticks no prob. If you look in the manual basically there is a a part that holes the pack down as well as a part that walls it off to the side.

I would say for the money, the 6500mah packs from Promatch and SMC offer the best bang for the buck for runtime, performance, and price.

If you need ultimate runtime in a ROAR legal size that will work on your 2wd vehicles (the previous packs I mentioned will too), Promatch has the latest IP lipos. These are 7600mah 90C batteries. I have there 7200mah versions, and they are excellent.

I run my sc104x4 off a 5000 perfectly fine. It drains 75% of the battery tho over a 6 min run on a pretty large track.