In my SC10 4x4 I am running a Reedy 4000mAH Shorty without any trouble. I can get at least 10 minutes on it. I AM running a light weight version which is just over ROAR limit and about 1 full pound lighter than most of the Losi's out there. It runs pretty good.

Hello all. I have been lurking these forums for a little bit and after reading this thread I have finally made the plunge and ordered a SC10 4x4. I also picked up a used SC10 2WD at a local track recently. I have not been doing a ton of racing until now, but I did run my dads RC10 from the 80's a bit back in the late 90's. I am going to be racing at a local track and may travel to some other venues as well.

My setup is as follows:
MMP SCT ECS
Castle 1410 3800
Futaba radio with R603-FF receiver
Savox 1258TG
Reedy Wolfpack 5000 25c

With that MMP your gonna want more punch with the battery, I recommend turnigy nano tech A spec 65-130c. U will really feel the boost when racing

I would try some smc 6500 70 c pack's. I use those for 2wd and the 4x4. For the last 2 years almost now. No problems at all. You have to get them from the smc site. I can go Like 10 minutes or more on a pack in the 4x4 running a 4.5 ballistic. And not hit the low cut off yet.

I have heard good things about these batteries as well, hoping to order a couple before spring. Are they hard case or soft?

Thanks for the input. The guys at the local track are all running 25c in the sc 4wd open class. Those batteries look very interesting for the price and ratings. Might pick up a couple.

if you notice any weird power loss issues, see about picking up either a glitch capacitor that plugs into the receiver, or, an external BEC. the cheapo from castle or hobbywing works well.

The BEC on the Mamba Max Pro is not rated that high, and the savox servos are known to draw hard on it.

Yeah I have read that so I made sure to get a Novak glitch buster. Once I get building which should be Wednesday I am sure I will be posting quite a few questions. Thanks for the warm welcome and suggestions.

You know i thought most people with castle system glitch problem came from a combo of savox servo and some brand of rx ( leaving the name out so i dont get flamed) . I have never had a problem with my savox and mine all high voltage and that even in my nitro with a hump pack. I told a couple of guy at the track last year that some off name brand stuff just dont work nice with some. i put my futaba stuff in his car ran it for it day no problem then he got one the next week i think. so some rx are not very good as they say. but yes castle does have a bec issue on some off the models but i think that was there smaller stuff. never ran them cause there un-sensor

When you say lighter, what have you done to make it lighter. Because I'll be moving to all shorties eventually. It would be nice if they could all be 4200mah.

on rcshortcourse, look for a thread by Shark on the sc10 4x4 section, he breaks it down very nicely.

If we could modify the first page here with a section about doing this mod, that would be great.

Main thing to keep in mind from what i have seen guys doing is that its best to do this in environments that are very dirty since they eliminate a variety of belt covers too to save weight. Heck, wonder if a lexan version of what is removed could be useful and still save weight.

This is good to know. I am really looking forward to getting this up and running. The local track is pretty tight but I am hoping to get good enough there to venture to some ROAR races. I wish there was a ROAR track in NH.

They are hard packs .

I know the mod call for moving the servo down on to the chassie. To do this the buy the sc10 ft or the avids servor mounts. They then drill a hole in the chassie to screw the mounts. Now you gonna have to get the 4-40 screws cause those mounts dont take your 3mm. Then the take off whatever they can like belts cover and stuff like that. I dont recommended taking the covers off unless you got a nice clean indoor track. The cut there bumbers downs. Take off the side braces And mud flaps

For you guys that are lightening the truck-

Has anyone tried to lighten the wheels? If so, what was the outcome?