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I don't want to steal WC's thunder, but I did it too and will be driving it hopefully next week? Can't say how it works, but it's an easy swap parts wise. Ebayed 2 sets of front shocks, $70 total. Sitting on Losi green and red springs for now, we'll see if I do the AE coil/cut once it turns a lap... Very anxious and eager to try, but no time 'til after the holiday...
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Originally Posted by maddysdaddy
(Post 11572044)
I don't want to steal WC's thunder, but I did it too and will be driving it hopefully next week? Can't say how it works, but it's an easy swap parts wise. Ebayed 2 sets of front shocks, $70 total. Sitting on Losi green and red springs for now, we'll see if I do the AE coil/cut once it turns a lap... Very anxious and eager to try, but no time 'til after the holiday...
Race again this Friday , Saturday & Sunday .. O-Man ! Now you know what I am ... Just a old track rat & I eats lots of CHEESE ..:batman: |
Originally Posted by imbsbiaoy
(Post 11571863)
Is there a chart or formula for figuring out what oil weight to piston hole diameter?
I'm asking this because my track surface temp is about 55 degrees. Using typical setups, I get too much pack in the shocks. I was running maifield's setup in higher temps and the truck was performing great. To reduce pack, I have dropped down to 25 wt. front and rear, but would like to go lower in the rear. However, since I have removed the upper x-ring to reduce friction (this made a bigger diff. than I thought it would and don't want to go back to two x-rings) I am worried about blowing the thin oil out as if I stayed with the balance recommended, I should be running 17.5 wt. rear shock oil. If I went with the 1.3mm pistons instead of the 1.2's, about how much higher in weight oil should I go to get the same feel? (Using given setup at a constant temp) I will go my two to three weights lighter for my track temp. I understand that it won't be exactly the same feel due to fluid dynamics. 55 is not that cold , would only consider going 5w down unless it got even cooler like 40 <> 45 Silicon oil is stays very close to its weight even in cooler temps . Even better then a single X-ring ? 2 X rings and trim .030 off the top of the shock cartridge where the top X-ring sits.. Will be as smooth as the single ring set-up with no stick & better a seal, ( no leak) ... |
Is everyone using the stock oil wt in the diffs.
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Motor Sizing
5 Attachment(s)
Hi, I am about to buy a new motor as the stock RTR Reedy motor is burnt out. I have chosen the Hobbywing Xerun 3672SD motor. But will the rear chassis plate have to modified for the motor to fit. If so, how will i need to modify it.
Sorry if the pictures are blurred |
For anyone interested....
I had my steering ball links popping off while racing at my small indoor track. I installed the Du-bro 3mm monster ball links and that took care of the problem. Granted they changed the layout since I last had been there and it was much more of an "open" layout. But not a problem all day. Here is the link to what I bought.... http://shop.dubro.com/p/3mm-monster-...ks?pp=12&pp=12 |
Originally Posted by rippen
(Post 11572332)
Is everyone using the stock oil wt in the diffs.
The center diff setups use a much lower oil weight in general up front. I am running 7K front, 5K rear pretty much indoors, outdoors, etc. For the clutch basket style setups (MTK, VTS, etc) seems about 15K and up in the front is common, 5K - 7K rear . I'd say look at some of the setups posted on AE's site and go with the one that appears to fit your conditions the best if running the VTS or similar slipper setup. |
Originally Posted by janga
(Post 11572394)
Hi, I am about to buy a new motor as the stock RTR Reedy motor is burnt out. I have chosen the Hobbywing Xerun 3672SD motor. But will the rear chassis plate have to modified for the motor to fit. If so, how will i need to modify it.
Sorry if the pictures are blurred |
Can't see why you would need to modify anything (could be wrong), I'm running 550 sized motor no changes needed |
janga,
That motor is 72mm long... the length will be the problem. Measure 72mm from the motor plate and see where you will need to cut the chassis. I would choose a shorter motor... Xerun 3656SD would be plenty. |
I'm going to be using the VTS system, should I use the overdrive pulley in the front diff. Also I've noticed that most people run full time 4WD instead of the clicker, I was just wondering what the reason is for this.
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rippen
Overdrive is useful in helping the truck pull more or extra steering coming out of the corner . Most use full time 4w because it gives smoother steering & extra traction compared to the overdrive.... |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 11574992)
Overdrive is useful in helping the truck pull more or extra steering coming out of the corner .
Most use full time 4w because it gives smoother steering & extra traction compared to using overdrive.... |
overdrive makes for more load for the Front drive train , rear load stays the same with either ..
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 11575040)
overdrive makes for more load for the Front drive train , rear load stays the same with either ..
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