No over/under drive with the C-Diff. Fighting against each other. Defeats the purpose of having a C-Diff to determine where it wants the power.

Balls stick out from both sides of the thrust bearing, one side more than the other. Side that protrudes more goes in deeper machined washer.
Would not create a click, just thought of that when I thought about drag that you have on a side note.

Click is as Cain said, something else going on. Remove stuff till no click and start putting it back together to find where the click is... after you space out the spur cover.

Dont run an over or underdrive pulley with the center dif, will create all kinds of handling issue and is not needed. Defeats the purpose.
Make sure that the thrust bearing assembly isnt rubbing against the motor plate or transmission. Other than that there is no difference with or without the center dif as it has nothing to do with how the truck rolls, same shaft.

Also , running Maifields setup with a center dif is not going to be very good, lots of adjustments are needed. start off with my base setup on my thread and go from there.

Mantis starting setup is very good with the center diff as a base. Probably the only thing I would add right away if you are on loose conditions, the 3.5 degrees of toe in is killer with the M2C blocks.

gonna try the Sc10 4x4 on another carpet surface tommorrow. Nothing formal but considering the closet track is an hour away, take what i can get!

I tore it back apart and removed the 19t front pulley and reinstalled. No Click now.
I also changed my belt tension settings back to the middle front middle rear. I was running it highest tension setting rear and front based on maifields set up and thought the belt might be too tight.

I went back and pulled it all out and looked at the build post with pics, I got the thrust bearing installed correctly exactly as Cameron Kelloggs build pics on rc shox thread.


Thrust bearing is sitting with clearance from the motor plate and transmission. I think the biggest part of the clicking sound was my gear mesh being too tight, I never ran power to the truck was just pushing it on the floor by hand and was hearing the clicking. Now after loosening belt tension and pulling the 19t front pulley I noticed the soft whoosh that my gears make when I roll the truck on the ground is the same timing as the clicking just alot quieter so I think it was the sound of my teeth meshing together when too tight. I remeshed and everything is gravy :)
I did notice one thing of note. I could only get the grooved washers that the thrust bearing sits between, to install with one washer going first, the other washer would only slide down to about quarter of an inch from end of shaft and would not go down further, (guessing tighter tolerance on inner ring that was tighter than shaft diameter) I checked the shaft and found nothing that would obstruct the grooved washer from seating fully, yet it would not go down all the way. I was able to use the second grooved washer and it slid down and fully seated on plastic spacer then install the thrust bearing then the second grooved washer with the tighter center hole diameter and no issues from there.


Is this the set up you meant?



3.5 degrees of toe? m2c blocks? I am on page 1620 of this thread I only have 500 more pages to be caught up so forgive me as I have not heard of the M2C but think I read a post saying its the rear toe block like the 3.2 and 3.3?

This is very unlike your typical gargle. You actually tested both side by side instead of just announcing superiority.

I'm looking forward to the information, WC. (not sarcasm)

Yeah the M2C rear toe block is adjustable and allows you to run 3.5 degrees of toe. It also lets you adjust anti squat. You can buy it from amain or most online sites. Btw glad you got your diff in hope it works well for you.

It's a sad day for me cause I finally had to put my sc10 4x4 up for sale. I've been fighting it as long as possible but money is just too tight. If anyone is looking for a tricked out truck let me know... :cry:

After reading though this thread, is there alot of problems with the SC10 4X4 or is it tuning issues. I was really considering getting one for x-mas but if I have to sink an ass load of money into it, I don't know.

WC,this mod interested me enough to ask you a few things
What type of track have you tested this 16mm setup on?
Indoor,Outdoor,big jumps,sm jumps,smooth or rough surface
Have you had a few other drivers that are familiar with the
Sc10 4x4 try this mod to see what they think?

You'll spend an ass load on the scte too. Just different places and different reasons.

Check out one of the 1/8 conversion SCT's (rapture, tekno, soon Mugen, sooner or later X-ray), starting to be sold NIB... maybe that's more what your looking for.

dont forget serpent

Check out the new tekno 410 SCT. I run only AE for now but this tekno truck may be a game changer

You'll hear a variety of positions on this including those that feel the vehicle needs nothing and is the greatest thing since slice bread. ;) You have to sort through that and believe what you want to believe. The way I personally look at it is if you keep getting different people in different areas reportin similar issues on similar conditions, they aren't all just teaming up and lying. :nod:

In my personal opinion, the first thing you should identify with the SC10 4x4 is what conditions do you plan to run it in.

It excels at indoor 1/10 oriented conditions, but in stock form is not as good on loose big jump conditions like found on 1/8 sized tracks like its competitor, the losi SCTE, which, considering the platform for the losi SCTE has a variety described by losi itself as a 1/8 buggy, not surprised.

In those situations, it benefits from a variety of parts. You can do some of the mods on the cheap versus others and get very good results.

It also has interesting in air handling characteristics that depending on where you are coming from RC wise, you may need to adjust your jumping "style" when using the vehicle. I find that for me with how my vehicle is setup, I prefer to punch it on the face of the jump. This usually has it jump for me at least slightly nose up which during flight it either levels off mid air then slightly nose down, or, if its still up, I can pin the brake to drop the front end. I can't however save it if its coming off nose down, it's pretty much is a lost cause at that point. Before with a lot of vehicles, I would just run it up over the jump and could control it mid air with throttle or brake inputs.

Durability wise, Its a highly durable truck in my opinion after you do the diff shim mod. I have been quite happy with that aspect of the vehicle. I beat it up pretty good last night on an indoor area that had a massive jump landing on a very thin carpet over concrete in a small shopping mall. Pretty much clearing the landing jump repeatedly and nothing broke in comparison to all the buggies in attendance for this bash fest. Nose dives, tail landing, upside down landings that beat the body up hard and a couple of jumps into the landing area as well as several into a trash can in from of a pillar, hitting the pillar lol, still all good.

As a side note, the RC Shox center diff provided extreme punch as well, with little run up could punch over the large jump expanse, just for those curious if the center diff can be used on carpet / high traction conditions. 8 pins right now, excellent performance. :blush:

M2C block setting of 2.75 degrees toe in gave quick direction changes that I liked on the high traction surface while still being controllable all around the track. I may try the next heaviest sway bar on the rear and see how it goes, but the truck feels pretty much dialed right now. :nod:

Cain do you have a setup sheet for your truck? I would like to check it out.

shoot me a pm with your email address and I'll see about getting that out to you tonight. What I have currently saved I need to update as I changed the ball stud heights front and rear due to the traction rolling I saw initially a few weeks ago.

I may try playing with the rear camber link length combined with the stock setting to see how it performs in comparison to my 2.75 toe setting. Basically, stock toe with shorter rear camber link, probably inside position on the rear hub carrier versus current middle position on carrier with my 2.75 toe in setting.