Congrats I am glad it worked out for you!

Those exo's are nice huh? I don't consider them only bling, they really make swapping from 8mm mod to stock so easy. And you say so is the b4 stands? Try taking them off back to stock in 10 seconds. :lol:

Love 'em. Course they look great too. >_> I took off my 8mm mod and my traction rolling stopped all together. didn't do it once a race, and typically I would 2 or 3 times a race. Truck drives like a dream. Now if only I could keep consistent i'd be fighting for 1st.

Edit: Oh, and very well put, Marcus.

When running the 8mm mod,what combo of sway bars are being used? Medium to high traction indoor clay track

I am not sure I would suggest the 8mm. Under high traction, you begin traction rolling with it. But if you're wanting to try.

2.0 rear
1.8 front

Is a good starting point. I've stuck with it for the summer. Again: the 8mm mod did me "NO" favors on high bite tracks.

to start with yellow ft bar & blue rear ...


there are other sets -ups on www.rc10 that use lighter bars .
Suggest you check out all of the team set -ups posted there for the Sc10 4x4.

Im going to pick up a set of those M2C blocks when they get back in stock. Whats a good point to start with on a medium indoor track? Its tight and fast.

I hope my loved ones slap me when I am a crotchety, stubborn, pig-headed, know-it-all like WC. Guy just can't get it through thick head that some things are preferred and better for different racers.

Stock anti squat, 1/2 degree offset. If you have too much push or your rear end feels too locked in, try the 1/4 degree offset.

After reading a bit on forums and in magazines I decided for the SC10 4x4 FT over the Losi SCTE. Because I mostly run AE and love the handling of all of them. Also because it was mentioned the AE is more "aggressive" and better handling on smaller technical tracks.

Well, not so sure anymore. My SC10 is 100% stock (always a good starting point). And very fast, that's not the problem...

First of all it is making noise (cracking). First thought it was the clicker but I closed it and it is under power and not while braking. It's also not a "clicker sound". It must be a gear box... As mentioned; the car is 100% stock. Can't remember adding shims and just checked the manual; also no mention of them. Is there a common issue with the gearboxes? Hopefully with a common solution? ;)

My biggest problem however is that it doesn't handle very well. My B44.1 is sooooo easy to drive fast. This SC10 twitches, the back comes out all the time and basically it slides all over the place. Any advice? Don't feel like reading 2,013 pages... Hope you forgive me.

And to make it even worse; my friend decided for the SCTE and let me have a go; very smooth and very easy to drive without any tuning.... That pissed me off. I have read the AE is more difficult to go fast with but this much difference I did not expect.

It's a beautiful car and I love AE but so far I'm disappointed. Spent so much money to build a nice truck and now this :(

I dry on an outdoor medium traction clay track which is quite short and technical.

Any ideas what I should change to make it more stable?

Long list I guess, others will add to it...

Did you limit the shocks up travel with 4mm to 5mm of supplied shaft clips? If not, the cva is contacting the outdrive and flexing the sun gear shim allowing too loose of a gear mesh... slipping or "clicking" diff gears. Probably need to replace rear gear set. Fresh rear gear set will take one stock (0.2mm) shim up to two. Front worn gear set may want two or even the 0.5mm that AE will mail to you.
Front & rear belt adjustment tight enough? Tightened after break in?

What are your diff oil weights? Sounds like you need to go thicker in the front or lighter in the rear or both.
Cain's review of adding more rear toe in, may be what your looking for...
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...e-setting.html

What tires are you running?

There was a question about what to get to improve the truck a few pages back, some good comments there.
You will spend money on this truck to make it keep up with the Losi and your friend will spend money on his Losi to make the drivetrain and a few weak spots on the truck as durable as the AE.

Try starting with a AE pro setup sheet from their site that matches your track and tune to your preference from there.
http://www.teamassociated.com/setupsheets/SC10_4x4/

Hey Jeff,Congrats!. I spent yesterday at West Coast raceway here in So Cal and I know was running smoother and faster with less effort with my MIP-Losi. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I am mine!:nod:
Mark Smith

FQ. Missed you yesterday!. Was looking foward to some fast laps with ya!.
Maybe next time:D
Mark Smith

I know, sucked... couldn't get out if here yesterday and the wife has a few fun activities planned for today. No driving this weekend and I just refreshed two cars that I'm dying to drive :mad:

ok whats the top speed of the a novak 550 4.5 trun? mid 30

question
 

I recently noticed after a few runs the rear shock cartridge cap on the bottom of the cap was cracked and lost all the shock oil. :(

Here is the part I am talking about in this picture shown by the red arrow.
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...shockcap-1.jpg

My question is. I am not sure why or how it cracked. I know I have read to run the shock compression limiters "c clips". Not sure if this is related or not. I was running one (2) c clip on all the shocks. How many are you guys running? Also, I am running the RC Shox dual stage pistons. Any developments on any new shock findings?

Thanks...