SC10 4x4 Thread
The pins i sent you are harder ( and cost 3 X the other ones) i didnt notice the price difference until i looked at my invoice! They should last much longer.
At 10.00 per spur im actually losing money, 12.00 is a break even point. which is how i like to price spare parts. Some people only see the bottom line and fail to realize how to get there (not you, just general). If you are racing RC and 12.00 is a breaking point, maybe dont drink a Monster drink and eat a salad for dinner will make up the difference
nobody complained about the price of the extended balls for the 8mm mod, now thats a steep price. Try buying a set of Kyosho springs or shocks
At 10.00 per spur im actually losing money, 12.00 is a break even point. which is how i like to price spare parts. Some people only see the bottom line and fail to realize how to get there (not you, just general). If you are racing RC and 12.00 is a breaking point, maybe dont drink a Monster drink and eat a salad for dinner will make up the difference
nobody complained about the price of the extended balls for the 8mm mod, now thats a steep price. Try buying a set of Kyosho springs or shocks
I agree though, it is amazing at what we consider a fair price for performance in RC. A lot of it I think goes to perception of cost. After running 1/5 scale, I can see they use that in pricing similar sized plastic components in comparison to a 1/8 counter part.
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
I have 50grams at the front left, but its not my final-setup. I will use some more weight besides the servo and a steel-plate (100-200 grams) in the chassis to get more weight down low. Why don't you just weigh how you're weight is distributed and try it out? It depends on the weight of your battery and electronics anyway.
I am sure this has been asked many times back when the FT version was released. Would like to know if an original SC10 4x4 can be easily converted to the newer FT version and what parts would be required. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Thank you
Not saying they don't have something of benefit, but in comparison some things matter more.
With the price these are going for which may be a reflection on how they are doing on a lot of tracks that aren't the ideal conditions for them, it may be cheaper to actually pick up someones loaded vehicle versus buying the parts you need new.
Thanks to RC Shox Center Diff and the M2C Toe in Block system, I have been hard pressed to let this vehicle go and go all Durango (got the 2wd buggy recently, looks very nice).
Ae SC 10 4x4 wins the N/w Gold Cup again !!!!
Last week end , Mike Brown and his Ae getting her done .....
Twice now the Ae has won the Sc 4x4 class in one of the N/w biggest off-road events...
BTW everyone ......
Mike uses the Ae VTS slipper ...
Last week end , Mike Brown and his Ae getting her done .....
Twice now the Ae has won the Sc 4x4 class in one of the N/w biggest off-road events...

BTW everyone ......
Mike uses the Ae VTS slipper ...
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-15-2013 at 12:52 PM.
Suggest you purchase the Ae factory upgrade kit ..#91174
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-15-2013 at 12:52 PM.
I completely disagree. You only race indoors on a high bite track, you cant really give advice on outdoor low bite. The VTS was better than the 2 disc, but less than anything else. Please dont compare indoor high bite to outdoor low bite. Come back low bite outdoor 8th scale experience please. Otherwise, your just giving bad advice.
The M2C block set at 3.5, the RC-Shox center ball diff, the +8 mod (well mine is mre of a +6 outside and +7 inside) and a set of holeshots have proven my truck on an outdoor very loose track. Yes Glitch. The very first time I ran it I took 1st place, no real practice. The truck drives awesome, but sadly you do have to put money into it.



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