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Old 09-22-2012, 12:55 PM
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What Pinion should I try for a 4000kv Pro4 Tekin motor?
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironwolf1974
What Pinion should I try for a 4000kv Pro4 Tekin motor?
13/14 small/medium track (maybe a 15 but watch temps), 14/15 for a larger track and possibly a 16 (but watch temps as well)........
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Old 09-22-2012, 05:53 PM
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To anyone that have used the xp-sc1200 BL ESC from Associated, have you ever experience the ESC cutting off because of the fan on top of it? I experienced that today. I unplugged the fan and the ESC ran fine afterwards. Didn't cut off again.
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Old 09-22-2012, 05:54 PM
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guys check out these hot deals!!!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ncept-oem.html


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Old 09-22-2012, 07:53 PM
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Well I got some time with the 8mm mod. After a few levels of input from different people, was a bit confused as to when to use it, so I figured, why not test?

The track was ran dry so it got really dusty and slick. I started with my previous setup other than the 8mm mod linkage settings and 7mm under the ball stud. I also inadvertently started with the low setting on the M2C blocks for antisquat that someone wanted me to test. I am not sure what the "low" setting exactly is, it doesn't say, but the stock setting is 3-2 so maybe 3-1? Lastly, stock setting for toe-in. I figured this would give me an idea of what I would see with the vehicle in stock fashion with the 8mm mod.

Heading out, had the same power setup except different lipos (promatch 5200 50Cs) and went down a pinion size using an axial brand pinion (great buy for the price), 12T

Driving on the track for about 5 minutes, I could tell that it had grip in the rear in comparison to what I remember when I ran stock last race prior to the block change, but didn't feel as confident as my 3.5 degree setting felt, especially on harder on throttle action. It felt as it squared up more as well, which I'll get into that more later, my thoughts on that, that is.

So, I took it in and figured I would try what I thought would be the "low" position for anti-squat. The funny thing is that is when I found out I was running the low position. I put it to the stock position, took it back out, and promptly did not like its handling. The vehicle wanted to come around on the rear more off power.

So, I decided to try less shims, when from 7mm down to 4mm and had more grip, but again just didn't feel as good as before. So after that, I put on the 3.5 degree toe setting and instantly had a better vehicle, but still not as good as before.

Finally went down to 2mm under the ball stud, and it was now feeling as good, maybe a bit better than my vehicle last race, with the conditions now EXTREMELY Loose. I could pitch the vehicle almost 45 degrees down the straight and get into the fast line as the straight curved.

so, my final thoughts. The 8mm mod, outside hole on new extender, at least in Loose Conditions appeared to generate more traction in comparison to a stock setting of 1mm or no shims under the ball stud, middle on hub.

However, I feel this can be improved if the 8mm mod was done in such a way you maintain the same position of the ball stud on the hub as it appears to move it more inward. I would think that either the extension being long enough to cover all three stock positions or the exotek carrier would be a better setup in a way for loose conditions. I think that is why people feel for loose stuff the 8mm mod low traction is NOT the hot ticket.

I also feel that overall, the M2C block in the 3.5 degree setting is the hot ticket for loose track setups at a minimum, or something that generates that amount of toe-in on the rear.

If there was more time to test outdoors, I would try the 8mm mod in REVERSE so that the shortest position of the hub ball stud would correspond to the middle location on the rear hub.

Again, just my observations. Hope this can help someone out there. Future test will be indoor carpet.
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:35 PM
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When I did mine, I just moved the camber link up in the same arc. I didn't have to hardly change the tie rod length to get the camber right.
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:45 PM
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this is what mind basically looks like:



So the position is inward. I wonder if turing the extender outward would be better?
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironwolf1974
What Pinion should I try for a 4000kv Pro4 Tekin motor?
15 tight and 16 open is what I run!
Originally Posted by Cain
Well I got some time with the 8mm mod. After a few levels of input from different people, was a bit confused as to when to use it, so I figured, why not test?

The track was ran dry so it got really dusty and slick. I started with my previous setup other than the 8mm mod linkage settings and 7mm under the ball stud. I also inadvertently started with the low setting on the M2C blocks for antisquat that someone wanted me to test. I am not sure what the "low" setting exactly is, it doesn't say, but the stock setting is 3-2 so maybe 3-1? Lastly, stock setting for toe-in. I figured this would give me an idea of what I would see with the vehicle in stock fashion with the 8mm mod.

Heading out, had the same power setup except different lipos (promatch 5200 50Cs) and went down a pinion size using an axial brand pinion (great buy for the price), 12T

Driving on the track for about 5 minutes, I could tell that it had grip in the rear in comparison to what I remember when I ran stock last race prior to the block change, but didn't feel as confident as my 3.5 degree setting felt, especially on harder on throttle action. It felt as it squared up more as well, which I'll get into that more later, my thoughts on that, that is.

So, I took it in and figured I would try what I thought would be the "low" position for anti-squat. The funny thing is that is when I found out I was running the low position. I put it to the stock position, took it back out, and promptly did not like its handling. The vehicle wanted to come around on the rear more off power.

So, I decided to try less shims, when from 7mm down to 4mm and had more grip, but again just didn't feel as good as before. So after that, I put on the 3.5 degree toe setting and instantly had a better vehicle, but still not as good as before.

Finally went down to 2mm under the ball stud, and it was now feeling as good, maybe a bit better than my vehicle last race, with the conditions now EXTREMELY Loose. I could pitch the vehicle almost 45 degrees down the straight and get into the fast line as the straight curved.

so, my final thoughts. The 8mm mod, outside hole on new extender, at least in Loose Conditions appeared to generate more traction in comparison to a stock setting of 1mm or no shims under the ball stud, middle on hub.

However, I feel this can be improved if the 8mm mod was done in such a way you maintain the same position of the ball stud on the hub as it appears to move it more inward. I would think that either the extension being long enough to cover all three stock positions or the exotek carrier would be a better setup in a way for loose conditions. I think that is why people feel for loose stuff the 8mm mod low traction is NOT the hot ticket.

I also feel that overall, the M2C block in the 3.5 degree setting is the hot ticket for loose track setups at a minimum, or something that generates that amount of toe-in on the rear.

If there was more time to test outdoors, I would try the 8mm mod in REVERSE so that the shortest position of the hub ball stud would correspond to the middle location on the rear hub.

Again, just my observations. Hope this can help someone out there. Future test will be indoor carpet.
My findings have been the same!! Good write up bud!!

Last edited by -WHEELMAN-; 09-22-2012 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 09-22-2012, 10:04 PM
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Nice Cain
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Old 09-23-2012, 04:18 AM
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When I set-up my 8mm mod I used the inner most whole so that the camber link was shorter and increased the camber gain. I am using 4mm of shims and on a large 8th scale track that is loose it was significanlty more planted at high speed especially. I do not have any other modifications and am running the stock toe settings. I will be testing again Saturday to see how it is on a new larger 8th scale track.
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
this is what mind basically looks like:



So the position is inward. I wonder if turing the extender outward would be better?
I did mine that way. This is the only picture I have of mine (the originals disapeared when my hauler bag was stolen) but I think BK did his the same way since I copied his.

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Old 09-23-2012, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN-
15 tight and 16 open is what I run!

My findings have been the same!! Good write up bud!!

Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
Nice Cain
Thanks!

One other thing, I think after the 8mm mod, the vehicle felt as if balls stud changes made a bigger difference than before. Could be wrong, but it felt that way.

Oh, and the car in the pic I believe is WC's.
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:58 PM
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Anyone know where else a good place to get the exotek chassis from? Exotek is completely out!
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Old 09-23-2012, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 07Forester
Anyone know where else a good place to get the exotek chassis from? Exotek is completely out!
I have a barely used one for 100 plus shipping to united states.
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Old 09-23-2012, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 07Forester
Anyone know where else a good place to get the exotek chassis from? Exotek is completely out!
Look at Stormer hobbies...

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...=ns&pn=EXO1162
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