Originally Posted by AJay0722 (Post 10861874)

alright I did a little bit of searching and could not find anything. I recently picked up my first SC10 4x4. The problem I am having is that my steering alignment keeps changing. My local track has a fast right turn before the straight away. Once I pull out of the turn and try to get on it, the truck will be pulling to the right, but not all the time. Not sure if it could be a stripped gear in the servo...nothing seems to be loose. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Originally Posted by fq06 (Post 10862043)

New truck or used truck?

Originally Posted by AJay0722 (Post 10862049)

used

Originally Posted by AJay0722 (Post 10861874)

alright I did a little bit of searching and could not find anything. I recently picked up my first SC10 4x4. The problem I am having is that my steering alignment keeps changing. My local track has a fast right turn before the straight away. Once I pull out of the turn and try to get on it, the truck will be pulling to the right, but not all the time. Not sure if it could be a stripped gear in the servo...nothing seems to be loose. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Originally Posted by the big rc (Post 10861075)

How do you get to the programming buttons with it that direction

Originally Posted by SOuthernFRIED (Post 10862157)

By the way.,,,, fixed my push tonite.. :batman:

Originally Posted by F_ME (Post 10859717)

Finally tried the 8mm C-Tab rear hub mod.
I reversed the rear hubs L/R to get a better angle on the camber links.
The turnbuckles just clear the rear shock springs by 1mm or so. As I stated before, if they do hit you can space the top shock bushing out with shims.
I am running the mod with 12mm Ti ball studs and 6mm shims.

Previously I ran the middle hole on the rear hubs. With the C-tab mod it moves the rear camber link right above the inside hole on the stock hub. This was a shorter camber link than what I typically run. While I did try the inside hole on the stock hub previously, I did not like the shorter rear link. With the C-Tab mod it did feel better. It loosened up the rear end just enough but still carved a good turn.

I am running the Exotek center chassis with blue front springs in the front, white front springs in the rear with 32.5/27.5 shock fluid F/R, stock 1.2 pistons. The rear feels a little soft so I am going to try moving up to the blue front spring in the rear and maybe move up to 30wt shock fluid.

Had a 2 week old RX8 fail on me for no apparent reason. Reinstalled my MMP with external BEC and runs flawless. Why did I buy an RX8?

Originally Posted by Vegatron75 (Post 10862271)

I did the same, 8mm mod with the reversed rear hubs. The problem seems that reversing the hubs ends up shortening the camber link to the point that turnbuckle is messing up the end of the ball cup.

Seems, with the reversed hubs, the camber link should be in the outside hole on the hub tab?

Anyone?

Originally Posted by F_ME (Post 10862311)

I run the outside hole on the tab which is directly over the inside hole on the stock hub. This is with the C-Tab flipped upside down so only 2 holes are on top.

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 10862388)

Funny part ?
Thinking maybe they are doing it on purpose.....:lol:

Originally Posted by Chris Gierse (Post 10863286)

Does the FT kit come with parts to either run stick or saddle packs or just saddle packs?