hey all, not sure where i should post it, but i figured here since im building one. this is my first use of gear diffs. when they are built, how smooth are they suppose to feal? last night they were horrid then today i tried shimming and trimming those ears on the flatter plastic gear section a bit, im at a point when i grab each out drive and twist in opposite directions i feel nothing, butter smooth and it still has a locker function. but when i grab the center gear and spin one outdrive im feeling something. its not a single tick like something is in between the teeth stuck or off, just a constant tiny tick.. i hope that makes sense what im saying. do i have to keep at it till the little constant tick is gone?

im sorry to ask, but can someone explain to me how the center diff works? i understand how the stock pads work, but then if u remover that kinda of set up, wont you leave the motor open to drivetrain shock?

I used to run the lrp x12L. geared it 12/13-62. would come off around 200 consistantly. LRP stuff tends to run hotter than any otherbrands out there. I've talked with Chris and Aldo about this and they both have said and I quote "200 is fine, if you get to 220-230- range, then gear down or change your ESC settings." Also, if you run drag brake, that causes ALOT of heat. what are your track conditions like?

Anyone have the ft chassis brace in stock?

not yet

Why would you want that?? then you would have to race with a paper bag over your head......Everyone knows the FORD body makes it faster by .7 seconds a lap. Duh


:)

Finally got the electronics in for my backup sc104x4, its the Toro 120a esc/w 4000kv motor........ I can't wait to test it out to compare to the name brand esc/motor's........... Also got my turnigy 6000mah nano tech 65c lipo's in as well, man I need to hit the track.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...z/DSCF0342.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...z/DSCF0343.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...z/DSCF0344.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...z/DSCF0345.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...z/DSCF0346.jpg

If anyone needs these, I have 2 of them marked down 10% from everywhere else. Use coupon code "rctech".

www.hobby-pros.com

Keep your eye on the Traxxas pre-painted stuff....they will still be Slash bodies, but with Sammie Hubinette and Robbie Mac running Dodge this year, you will likely see some dodge paint schemes....

i would be curious to see how that combo works for you. im looking for a cheap solution for putting one in my sons 4x4.

I'll let you know Friday, that is when I will be able to hit the track..... It's hard to beat $145 shipped for a 4pole 4000kv (they offer a 4600Kv) 120a esc and program card...........

i know...even if its about the same speed as the others or even alittle less, would be a great buy for a 12 year old..looking forward to it

Hey guys, I posted this as a solo thread with no luck. I believe I should have posted here in the first place. I've been slowly building my FT kit and have come across a couple of issues early on. I've been building helis and planes for the past four years, so I do have some building experience. First issue is the diffs. I have been going over this thread and have read that the diffs can be a bit notchy. Well, mine are. The action is smooth but there is a faint click click click going on. I built them correctly, there really is only one way, and was wondering if it's ok to run them this way? I really want to build this thing and not wait for a couple of days to source out the replacement size shims and then go find them. I can always replace them later no? The second issue I've come across is the clicker pulley seems to spin free for half a revolution, then it tightens up a bit...is this normal? I've put the long screw in the correct location. Thanks for any insight...

Jay.

I'd look at the viper copperhead also..

Just got a Ft sc10 4x4 in process of building it what's a good pinion size for Novak Ballistic 4.5