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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

ilanstylz 04-04-2012 08:09 PM


Originally Posted by Mxer59 (Post 10561297)
Just got a Ft sc10 4x4 in process of building it what's a good pinion size for Novak Ballistic 4.5

Start out with a 12T and go from there...........

Mxer59 04-04-2012 09:13 PM


Originally Posted by jayrat (Post 10561276)
Hey guys, I posted this as a solo thread with no luck. I believe I should have posted here in the first place. I've been slowly building my FT kit and have come across a couple of issues early on. I've been building helis and planes for the past four years, so I do have some building experience. First issue is the diffs. I have been going over this thread and have read that the diffs can be a bit notchy. Well, mine are. The action is smooth but there is a faint click click click going on. I built them correctly, there really is only one way, and was wondering if it's ok to run them this way? I really want to build this thing and not wait for a couple of days to source out the replacement size shims and then go find them. I can always replace them later no? The second issue I've come across is the clicker pulley seems to spin free for half a revolution, then it tightens up a bit...is this normal? I've put the long screw in the correct location. Thanks for any insight...

Jay.

I just built those steps on mine today but my diffs are very smooth no notchy feelings and as for my clicker I have it tighted only a little bit so its not in full 4wd all the time just to try it first but it has a constant feel and click.
Hope this helps my first kit car but I have rebuilt 2wd and 1/8 buggies diffs so I could be wrong though :lol:

Wild Cherry 04-04-2012 09:15 PM


Originally Posted by jayrat (Post 10561276)
Hey guys, I posted this as a solo thread with no luck. I believe I should have posted here in the first place. I've been slowly building my FT kit and have come across a couple of issues early on. I've been building helis and planes for the past four years, so I do have some building experience. First issue is the diffs. I have been going over this thread and have read that the diffs can be a bit notchy. Well, mine are. The action is smooth but there is a faint click click click going on. I built them correctly, there really is only one way, and was wondering if it's ok to run them this way? I really want to build this thing and not wait for a couple of days to source out the replacement size shims and then go find them. I can always replace them later no? The second issue I've come across is the clicker pulley seems to spin free for half a revolution, then it tightens up a bit...is this normal? I've put the long screw in the correct location. Thanks for any insight...

Jay.


Want to be one of the first to welcome you to our thread ....:)



The diff should feel fairly smooth when assemble correctly..

Common mistakes


Shims not installed ,shims installed incorrectly or the wrong position on the gear ...

clicker clicking


Its usually from installing too long of a screw on the transmission and you have dented the pulley gear or the screw is rubbing the pulley gear.

ck if the #91013 ft pulley flange is installed correctly..

also check to make sure you did not install too long of screws on the ft shock tower, screw # 89454.


The very top two screws used to install tower ?
If too long can dent & bind the counter gear inside the transmission.



gear diff kit #9829

Mxer59 04-04-2012 09:18 PM


Originally Posted by ilanstylz (Post 10561308)
Start out with a 12T and go from there...........

Thanks prob get the three pack and try some different sizes then

Arakon 04-04-2012 09:31 PM


Originally Posted by lodhammerdin (Post 10560635)
I used to run the lrp x12L. geared it 12/13-62. would come off around 200 consistantly. LRP stuff tends to run hotter than any otherbrands out there. I've talked with Chris and Aldo about this and they both have said and I quote "200 is fine, if you get to 220-230- range, then gear down or change your ESC settings." Also, if you run drag brake, that causes ALOT of heat. what are your track conditions like?

I run the X12L at 14/62 and it never gets above 62°C/141F with 61F outside temperature, on an astroturf mixed grip track (some very high grip, some loose areas with some sand in the astroturf).

jayrat 04-04-2012 10:19 PM

Thanks for the welcome and the info...The diffs were assembled correctly, I triple checked before installing the fluid. The clicker pulley did free up quite a bit after backing the screws off to the point that they are flush with the inside of the back of the belt housing. There is only a tiny amount of resistance once every three revolutions.

Jay.

Wild Cherry 04-04-2012 10:39 PM


Originally Posted by jayrat (Post 10561720)
There is only a tiny amount of resistance once every three revolutions.

Jay.



look for a dent on the back side of pulley flange , dent from screw can be big enough to squeeze the belt as the pulley rotates

jayrat 04-04-2012 10:43 PM

I'll check that tomorrow, thanks.

IRM616 04-04-2012 11:00 PM

center diff
 
whats the difference between the rc shox V1 and V2????thanks how do you guys like the V2 vs the Clutch basket and garodisc pads.

Beachbuggyphil 04-04-2012 11:50 PM

My first post!
 
Hi guys.
I've followed this thread from day one and I think I've read nearly every page, feel like I already know some of you guys!
I've always wanted one of these but have been waiting until funds allow and then for the FT version, I ordered it last night!
I think the only upgrade on the FT I'll be making in the near future will be some of those posh pistons Mantis makes and changing the springs. I forget right now, is it backs on the front or fronts on the back, I'll have to go read up on it, I've used the search this thread function already. ;)

I can't wait to build it, I've only been racing a year and started on a RTR B4.1 and also race a Mardave VRX CE during the winter.
I have a second hand SC10 as well for bashing but this new 4x4 kit will be my first new build. There are very few clubs where I live and nothing indoors so this will mostly be used for bashing as well although one track will allow it in their open electric class on a big 1/5 scale petrol track.


I'll keep you posted about my build, should be here tomorrow, dry build first, then decide on diff fluids, shock oils and spring changes then order them.
It'll probably have the RS Pro out of my Mardave(season ends in 2 weeks) fitted first with a 10.5t with plans for something hotter when funds allow.

Cheers guys.
Phil

SCTDan 04-04-2012 11:56 PM


Originally Posted by IRM616 (Post 10561809)
whats the difference between the rc shox V1 and V2????thanks how do you guys like the V2 vs the Clutch basket and garodisc pads.

V2 is adjustable. Only V2's out there are prototypes. Should be shipped soon. I love the v1 I'm running compared to the basket with garodiscs. Much more drivable in the lose stuff on outdoor tracks

IRM616 04-05-2012 12:30 AM


Originally Posted by SCTDan (Post 10561905)
V2 is adjustable. Only V2's out there are prototypes. Should be shipped soon. I love the v1 I'm running compared to the basket with garodiscs. Much more drivable in the lose stuff on outdoor tracks

Sweet. I run on an indoor track. High bite. Should be great,right?

murky123 04-05-2012 02:22 AM


Originally Posted by Vegatron75 (Post 10559720)

So who is right? and who is wrong ?

AE or the HUDY off-road setup guide

EFFECTS OF ACKERMANN ADJUSTMENT
STEERING ROD INNER MOUNTING
POSITION
CHARACTERISTICS
Forward holes (sharper angle)
• Smoothens out steering response
• Car reacts smoothly
• Better suited to smooth fl owing tracks with
high speed corners


Rearward holes (shallower angle)
• Quickens initial steering response
• Car reacts faster to steering input
• Better suited to small, tight tracks


I got this from the hudy set up guide

Evil Genius jr. 04-05-2012 03:56 AM

Did the bearing mod to my diffs!
Works very well.

rm25x 04-05-2012 04:12 AM


Originally Posted by murky123 (Post 10562037)
So who is right? and who is wrong ?

AE or the HUDY off-road setup guide

EFFECTS OF ACKERMANN ADJUSTMENT
STEERING ROD INNER MOUNTING
POSITION
CHARACTERISTICS
Forward holes (sharper angle)
• Smoothens out steering response
• Car reacts smoothly
• Better suited to smooth fl owing tracks with
high speed corners


Rearward holes (shallower angle)
• Quickens initial steering response
• Car reacts faster to steering input
• Better suited to small, tight tracks


I got this from the hudy set up guide

I bet they are both correct as they use different steering geometry, Hudy says their forward holes are sharper and ae's shows their rear holes are sharper.


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