![]() |
Originally Posted by Mxer59
(Post 10561297)
Just got a Ft sc10 4x4 in process of building it what's a good pinion size for Novak Ballistic 4.5
|
Originally Posted by jayrat
(Post 10561276)
Hey guys, I posted this as a solo thread with no luck. I believe I should have posted here in the first place. I've been slowly building my FT kit and have come across a couple of issues early on. I've been building helis and planes for the past four years, so I do have some building experience. First issue is the diffs. I have been going over this thread and have read that the diffs can be a bit notchy. Well, mine are. The action is smooth but there is a faint click click click going on. I built them correctly, there really is only one way, and was wondering if it's ok to run them this way? I really want to build this thing and not wait for a couple of days to source out the replacement size shims and then go find them. I can always replace them later no? The second issue I've come across is the clicker pulley seems to spin free for half a revolution, then it tightens up a bit...is this normal? I've put the long screw in the correct location. Thanks for any insight...
Jay. Hope this helps my first kit car but I have rebuilt 2wd and 1/8 buggies diffs so I could be wrong though :lol: |
Originally Posted by jayrat
(Post 10561276)
Hey guys, I posted this as a solo thread with no luck. I believe I should have posted here in the first place. I've been slowly building my FT kit and have come across a couple of issues early on. I've been building helis and planes for the past four years, so I do have some building experience. First issue is the diffs. I have been going over this thread and have read that the diffs can be a bit notchy. Well, mine are. The action is smooth but there is a faint click click click going on. I built them correctly, there really is only one way, and was wondering if it's ok to run them this way? I really want to build this thing and not wait for a couple of days to source out the replacement size shims and then go find them. I can always replace them later no? The second issue I've come across is the clicker pulley seems to spin free for half a revolution, then it tightens up a bit...is this normal? I've put the long screw in the correct location. Thanks for any insight...
Jay. Want to be one of the first to welcome you to our thread ....:) The diff should feel fairly smooth when assemble correctly.. Common mistakes Shims not installed ,shims installed incorrectly or the wrong position on the gear ... clicker clicking Its usually from installing too long of a screw on the transmission and you have dented the pulley gear or the screw is rubbing the pulley gear. ck if the #91013 ft pulley flange is installed correctly.. also check to make sure you did not install too long of screws on the ft shock tower, screw # 89454. The very top two screws used to install tower ? If too long can dent & bind the counter gear inside the transmission. gear diff kit #9829 |
Originally Posted by ilanstylz
(Post 10561308)
Start out with a 12T and go from there...........
|
Originally Posted by lodhammerdin
(Post 10560635)
I used to run the lrp x12L. geared it 12/13-62. would come off around 200 consistantly. LRP stuff tends to run hotter than any otherbrands out there. I've talked with Chris and Aldo about this and they both have said and I quote "200 is fine, if you get to 220-230- range, then gear down or change your ESC settings." Also, if you run drag brake, that causes ALOT of heat. what are your track conditions like?
|
Thanks for the welcome and the info...The diffs were assembled correctly, I triple checked before installing the fluid. The clicker pulley did free up quite a bit after backing the screws off to the point that they are flush with the inside of the back of the belt housing. There is only a tiny amount of resistance once every three revolutions.
Jay. |
Originally Posted by jayrat
(Post 10561720)
There is only a tiny amount of resistance once every three revolutions.
Jay. look for a dent on the back side of pulley flange , dent from screw can be big enough to squeeze the belt as the pulley rotates |
I'll check that tomorrow, thanks.
|
center diff
whats the difference between the rc shox V1 and V2????thanks how do you guys like the V2 vs the Clutch basket and garodisc pads.
|
My first post!
Hi guys.
I've followed this thread from day one and I think I've read nearly every page, feel like I already know some of you guys! I've always wanted one of these but have been waiting until funds allow and then for the FT version, I ordered it last night! I think the only upgrade on the FT I'll be making in the near future will be some of those posh pistons Mantis makes and changing the springs. I forget right now, is it backs on the front or fronts on the back, I'll have to go read up on it, I've used the search this thread function already. ;) I can't wait to build it, I've only been racing a year and started on a RTR B4.1 and also race a Mardave VRX CE during the winter. I have a second hand SC10 as well for bashing but this new 4x4 kit will be my first new build. There are very few clubs where I live and nothing indoors so this will mostly be used for bashing as well although one track will allow it in their open electric class on a big 1/5 scale petrol track. I'll keep you posted about my build, should be here tomorrow, dry build first, then decide on diff fluids, shock oils and spring changes then order them. It'll probably have the RS Pro out of my Mardave(season ends in 2 weeks) fitted first with a 10.5t with plans for something hotter when funds allow. Cheers guys. Phil |
Originally Posted by IRM616
(Post 10561809)
whats the difference between the rc shox V1 and V2????thanks how do you guys like the V2 vs the Clutch basket and garodisc pads.
|
Originally Posted by SCTDan
(Post 10561905)
V2 is adjustable. Only V2's out there are prototypes. Should be shipped soon. I love the v1 I'm running compared to the basket with garodiscs. Much more drivable in the lose stuff on outdoor tracks
|
Originally Posted by Vegatron75
(Post 10559720)
AE or the HUDY off-road setup guide EFFECTS OF ACKERMANN ADJUSTMENT STEERING ROD INNER MOUNTING POSITION CHARACTERISTICS Forward holes (sharper angle) • Smoothens out steering response • Car reacts smoothly • Better suited to smooth fl owing tracks with high speed corners Rearward holes (shallower angle) • Quickens initial steering response • Car reacts faster to steering input • Better suited to small, tight tracks I got this from the hudy set up guide |
Did the bearing mod to my diffs!
Works very well. |
Originally Posted by murky123
(Post 10562037)
So who is right? and who is wrong ?
AE or the HUDY off-road setup guide EFFECTS OF ACKERMANN ADJUSTMENT STEERING ROD INNER MOUNTING POSITION CHARACTERISTICS Forward holes (sharper angle) • Smoothens out steering response • Car reacts smoothly • Better suited to smooth fl owing tracks with high speed corners Rearward holes (shallower angle) • Quickens initial steering response • Car reacts faster to steering input • Better suited to small, tight tracks I got this from the hudy set up guide |
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:51 PM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.