SCTDan

iTrader: (9)

I was running 5k 5k. Went to 5k front 3k rear but will be going back to 5 and 5
3k in the rear was a little loose on our new layout

rickybobbyxxx

iTrader: (-1)

i will sell u mine ,it has every possible option u can find for this truck, il take 500 for it and even throw in a mmp esc and a 4.5 550 tekin

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

I wil take you up on that, I'll send you a PM and we can discus everything, I still think I got the wrong ones..everyone I've talked to that measured the pistons had a larger diameter piston than what I did..Theirs were 11.80 and mine were 11.63 that's a big difference IMO..

CT RACER

iTrader: (26)

Hey guys,

I have a wired clicking noise in my car and don't know what it is, Its the factory team version is it from the diff or what? i know its not the clicker up front though.

mdutcher

iTrader: (8)

What about a weight balance issue now? Do you think that you will need to add some weight to the other side now seeing how you have the ESC on the same side as the motor? Just curious to know how it handles. Other than that it looks really sharp!!

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Oh no, another clicking rear diff.

The washer/washers under the sun gear in the rear diff got deformed from allowing too much up travel in the rear. Either the rear cvd is contacting the outdrive cup and tweaking it upwards in turn deforming the washer or the a arm itself is making contact with the outdrive cup.

Push the rear a arm all the way up... not just push the truck down till it bottoms out because theres still a few millimeters of travel from that point.
You will see one or the other or both conditions causing the outdrive to get pushed upwards.

You will need to pull the diff and replace the washer(s) that are damaged.
Than add a 1mm or 2mm clip from the shock bag in the kit to the bottom of the shock shaft under the rubber doughnut. 1 or 2mm depending on your trucks need.
I found that stock arms need the 2mm clip and rpm arms only need the 1mm clip.

SOuthernFRIED

iTrader: (21)

I do expect to add weight to balance things out. I haven't had it on any scales and it will be the weekend after Easter before I get it on a track. Hopefully I can find some scales between now and then, I'm curious about what the difference is.

ilanstylz

iTrader: (142)

I'd look into these scales, you can usually find them on ebay for real cheap and get up to four for about 20-30 bucks or so.......

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000g-x-0-1g...item27c57fecb0

I'll be weighing mine and tuning/dialing it in towards the end of the week when I have the time...........

SOuthernFRIED

iTrader: (21)

Thanks for the link ilan! I'll be picking up a set.

ilanstylz

iTrader: (142)

No problem southernfried..........



Just a heads up to all those with the FT SC10 kit I will be sending Marcus aka Mantis my FT clutch setup for him to make garodisc's for it. Trust me they are far better then the AE slipper pads and will last 10x if not more longer, this way you can save money on having to keep buying new pads every time they wear out..........

Mizchief

Yea garos are good stuff. I run mine in the sc10 since I switched to the center diff

vito

ae has the up grade kit in stock btw.

jhhack

iTrader: (56)

Stormer just got in 3 of the exotek chasis last night. I've reached out to them, trying to figure out of there are updated ones for the ft battery tie down locations or not.... They've been out of stock for weeks.

JLinney

iTrader: (6)

This is something for you still building your diffs to try out if you want. I ordered some 5x.1mm shims from Tony's Screws for help with achieving proper shimming. I ended up taking the factory shim that AE wants between outdrive and diff case and putting it under large sun(side)gear shim on each side and I installed .1mm shim from Tony's between outdrive and diff case and now the diffs are butter smooth without the notchy feeling.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

Here is my setup from the TLR Shootout where I qualified 6 seconds behind Dakotah Phend:

Camber Links:
1.5 Degrees all around
Outer holes on towers all around.
3mm spacer under all inner ball studs.
Innermost hole on rear hub.

Toe:
3-2 rear block and stock hubs
1 degree of toe out in front

Steering:
RCShox Steering rack, second hole from the front
No bump steer shims anywhere

Suspension:
RCShox v2 dual stage pistons (standard holes) all around.
Front - 32.5 wt, outer on tower and arm, yellow front spring.
Rear - 30 wt, middle tower, outer arm, blue rear spring.
Preloaded to provide ride heights of 22mm (front) and 20 (rear).
Shock eyelets threaded until all threads were covered and unscrewed 2 turns all around. No droop limiters. Compression was limited as necessary to prevent binding on outdrives.
Yellow front swaybar and blue rear.
RPM A-arms.

Drivetrain:
60 tooth RCShox V1.5 center diff with all 10 pins in.
No over or underdrive.
Diffs have grease in them as opposed to oil. Used close to 50/50 mixture of MIP thick diff grease and AE black grease in the front and feels like 7-10k oil. Rear has just AE black grease and feels like 4-5k oil.

Chassis Layout & Electronics:
RCShox inline saddle with 4850mah Nanotech lipos.
3 oz (total) on either side of battery.
RX8 and 4000kv Pro4 motor geared 15/60.
RX8 has 10 on timing advance slider, no drag, 60% brakes, linear throttle profile, 5 min drive, minimum deadband. Other settings are default.
MT4 radio telemetry indicated a motor temp of 170 after the 7 minute main and~4200 mah was put back in the pack. Run time during practice ranged from 10-12 minutes run to a voltage cutoff of 6.5V.

Notes:
Track was watered the night before and stayed damp; would be considered high traction clay with lap times around 20 seconds flat. Tires were Panther Rattlers in Pink compound with stock yellow molded foams all around on DE racing Losi xxx-sct rear rims (2.5mm increased offset over stock rims, close to JC hazards) with 2 rather large vent holes in the rim.