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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

jodyfj40 02-29-2012 12:25 PM


Originally Posted by Krio (Post 10401154)
The temperature difference between the esc and motor doesn't mean anything. The change in esc temperature can tell you if gearing up or down should be the way to go.

Could you please explain this to me.
Thanks

lodhammerdin 02-29-2012 12:27 PM


Originally Posted by Vegatron75 (Post 10401244)
Has anyone found the race results for the 4x4 sc class at the 2012 Dirt Nitro challenge?

I can't find anything...

I didn't even see anything about the 1/10 scale stuff all weekend.

jodyfj40 02-29-2012 12:28 PM


Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 10401061)
Sounds okay.



Yes, or mount it on top of the chassis facing down.




Yes, but it's easy to check. Check the slipper temp.



80 degrees difference between the motor and the speed control is not normal. Good luck.

Is there a normal temp range for the slipper? at what point does it indicate a problem?
Thanks

m2cracing 02-29-2012 01:19 PM

TAPERED HOLE SHOCK PISTONS FOR SC10 4X4
 
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...acing/3565.jpg

M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of our 8 hole .9 through hole tapered pistons for the 13mm shocks. this is the same design that has been so sucessful on the Losi scte 4x4.
We have tested many different configurations and this one seems the best
It will allow you to have the same pack on the compression stroke but allow the shock to rebound much quicker and allow the vehicle to settle much quicker.
Made with delrin and precisioned machined of fit.
part no. m2c3565
www.m2cracing.com

SCTDan 02-29-2012 01:42 PM

Couple of changes to my truck.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...-08-42_227.jpghttp://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...9-29_330-1.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...-05-03_383.jpghttp://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...-06-39_856.jpg
the front skid plate is steel and weighs 4.5 oz. Allowed me to take the lead out from in front of the battery and gain a little more front weight bias. The extensions on the rear hubs raise the link 6mm. May have to shim the inner ball stud a little. I'll see after running it

MantisWorx 02-29-2012 01:47 PM


Originally Posted by jodyfj40 (Post 10401003)
I am topping out about 3/4 down the straight. I do have the stock slipper but have a center diff on order. also do you guys cut holes in the chassis when you mount the fan there.

I went back to the track and put another pack thru it and it hit 210 and the esc was at 130. It seems hotter with the 13 than the 14. would the slipper slipping cause it heat this bad?
Thanks again guys for your help, I would rather not replace the motor in the first month.

You are waaay under geared, i run 15/62 with a 4600. If your esc is cool but the motor is hot you are under geared.

Krio 02-29-2012 02:37 PM


Originally Posted by jodyfj40 (Post 10401332)
Could you please explain this to me.
Thanks

Motors will overheat from high current loads (over geared) or over revving (under geared). For the most part current plays a larger role in esc temp, so if you gear down and your motor temps go up, but you esc runs colder you are under geared.

old&slow 02-29-2012 03:39 PM

how does it work
 
Hey m2racing ,

Please explain how these work as I am not understanding the function of a tapered hole.

Seems to me regardless of how big the entrance to the hole is ,there is only going to be so much flow through a given diameter. How does this change compression vs rebound if the oil is traveling through the same diameter hole in either direction.

I must be lame as I do not get the function of these.

O&S

BlueGlowBoy 02-29-2012 03:47 PM

+1... I totally understand dual stage pistons....when they open up, it unblocks the extra holes.....but these tapered ones are beyond my comprehension....does it introduce turbulence into the oil? Or does it somehow compress the oil to get more volume through more easily?

Evil Genius jr. 02-29-2012 03:50 PM

Done! I will let you guys know how it works out!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...0/DSC_0006.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0...0/DSC_0007.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C...0/DSC_0008.JPG

IRM616 02-29-2012 03:54 PM


Originally Posted by MantisWorx (Post 10401709)
You are waaay under geared, i run 15/62 with a 4600. If your esc is cool but the motor is hot you are under geared.

so what do you recommened with ur center diff setup if im running 4600k pro 4 and i got a 60 spur gear with my kit. im at 14/60 but havent been to the track.thanks

Slashdrivr 02-29-2012 04:03 PM


Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg (Post 10400883)
Shock ends: I normally run 2 turns out on the shock ends but when our track is wet and the bite comes up I will go down to 0 to 1 turn out depending on the layout. Right hardly any jumps and I am running slicks on wet clay so 0 turns out.

Front springs on the rear: Right now I like the greens on the rear with the stage 2 pistons. The white springs I felt had too much rebound with the stage 2's but was real good with standard 1.2 pistons. With your bigger jumps I would look at the whites because it does seem to help the truck jump more level.

This weekend I have a big two day race and will be testing shocks and springs so I will have a better opinion (for what its worth) after this weekend.

NVM, found the post...

JEFFs SC10 02-29-2012 04:24 PM

I threw the saddles in and went for a blast again, this truck is definitely a different animal. I have to turn down the current limiter for sure, might even go down in pinion to a 13 tooth to soften the initial hit. The center diff definitely does its job. the belt was slipping a little , might tighten up a notch, but I think that's because I'm running on the street too.

Does everyone run the shocks on the bottoms on the outer holes or inner? If I moved the shocks inward in the rear that should help chassis slap I'm thinking.

Just blasting up n down the street is crazy, my truck is straight up beastly. wayyy too much power for dirt LOL. it takes off like a bat outta hell. :batman:

I threw the yellows on the rear and the truck doesn't squat as much or bottom out but Id like to go up in spring rate some more to see how it reacts. right now I cant wait for Sat to come to throw down some laps.

JEFFs SC10 02-29-2012 04:33 PM

The bigger part of the hole is probably for the rebound side for the oil to rush thru quicker and the smaller part of the hole is probably for the compression side.

Be interesting to see a comparison between these and the rcshox ones.

MantisWorx 02-29-2012 04:37 PM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 10402527)
I threw the saddles in and went for a blast again, this truck is definitely a different animal. I have to turn down the current limiter for sure, might even go down in pinion to a 13 tooth to soften the initial hit. The center diff definitely does its job. the belt was slipping a little , might tighten up a notch, but I think that's because I'm running on the street too.

Does everyone run the shocks on the bottoms on the outer holes or inner? If I moved the shocks inward in the rear that should help chassis slap I'm thinking.

Just blasting up n down the street is crazy, my truck is straight up beastly. wayyy too much power for dirt LOL. it takes off like a bat outta hell. :batman:

I threw the yellows on the rear and the truck doesn't squat as much or bottom out but Id like to go up in spring rate some more to see how it reacts. right now I cant wait for Sat to come to throw down some laps.


Jeff i set your truck up a certain way for a certain reason, your making changes without even trying it the way it was. It is not going to chassis slap on anything, Bench testing means nothing. Your going to end up with a messed up setup! what did you pay me for??? It is setup identically to my truck and drove just like my truck with the exception of electronics. I realize its your truck but you should get a foundation before you make changes.


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