Wild Cherry

O-Please , go discuss it on Spekdumb thread K ?

JS

iTrader: (70)

picky - let me delete my post

Mizchief

When has adding more fuel to a fire caused it to go out?

Dano628

+1

CoyoteSlash

iTrader: (8)

You are the kind of guy I walk away from at work, WC.








Damn does it feel good...

Misfit138

iTrader: (110)

Just ordered up one of your saddle conversions for the Exotek.

SCTDan

iTrader: (9)

I ran several packs today with the bearing diff mod. Holding up well so far. I think I will cut a groove in the out drive shaft so I can move the oring farther inside. As it is now it sits right at the top of the bearing and really doesn't seal against the bushing but is still better than before. Doing a new rebuild of the truck and plan on using the new diff housings instead of the old ones.

CoyoteSlash

iTrader: (8)

That was my initial thought when I saw this. The o-ring not being able to do it's job. A Groove moved down could work, I think i'd run a spacer between the bushing and the bearing too though, for a little squish sealing them where they mate, instead of on the outside facing bearing wall. you don't really need one there.

I really ought to get to this, but... Learning a language is taking up 150% of my time right now.

(don't worry, braces are sitting right here, waiting for the final part)

BlueGlowBoy

iTrader: (2)

Searched again....no matches when I search for Metal Shield, or Metal Sheild, and 230 hits when I just search "bearing" (231 now!) I'm trying to find info on the 4 6x12x3 bearings that came stock with the original kit. They are metal shielded on one side and rubber shielded on the other (all the other bearings are rubber shileded on both sides, and 6x12x4).

The manual doesn't show any 6x12x3, but these are DEFINATLY thinner than the 6x12x4 bearings.

Where did they come from??? I had my truck entirely apart for a few weeks while waiting for parts and now I don't have any clue where they came from...

My best guess is from the front axel carriers....I'm 99% certain that those came pre-assembled, and it would be a good spot to hide slightly cheaper bearings

Any one know?

johnbugman

iTrader: (8)

ok yes marcus the front wheels spin in reverse of the rears when i do as told by you. guess it is what it is. I have locknut pretty much bottomed out. It takes medium force to turn the assembly. how tight did you want us to run balldiff nut with spring washer turned around in instructions?

CoyoteSlash

iTrader: (8)

Where did the bearings go is what you're asking? I don't understand.

There are no 6x12x3 bearings in the kit. Those 6x12x4 Bearings? Those 'are' for the front and rear hubs. (traxxas makes them too, cheaper)


Edit: I checked my manual, the RTR manual (just to be sure) and also did several searches. There is no 6x12x3. I know you said that they are definitely different, but they don't belong on that truck.

Amain doesn't carry
Tower doesn't carry
Horizon doesn't carry

You're in the Twilight Zone of bearings! (or remeasure them. :P )

jamr1130

iTrader: (120)

I understand some people use Spektrum electronics with their Sc10 4x4. It's not specific to operate this truck.

When the Tekin Pro4 first came out and everyone was jumping to it from 550 cans. I decided to give it a try. I swapped my Novak Ballistic 4.5 550 with the Pro4 4000. But it wasn't working too well with my Novac Havoc Pro SC esc. Instead of clogging this thread with my issue I posed it on the Novak Havoc esc thread and Tekin Pro4 thread. I posted it on those threads as this issue really had nothing to do with my SC10 4x4 but with the operation of that particular esc and that particular motor. The issue would be the same no matter what brand truck or what model truck I was running. And guess what! I got the answers I needed from both Tekin and Novak reps on their threads. Novak even addressed the issue with a updated brain board for their new Havoc Pro SC X-drive esc. And the new esc's coming out as of this month will all have the updated board for it to work with the Pro4. Now if you post in the right areas You'll get answers.


For the record. I used to run the Spektrum DX2R radio and SR300 rx's on all my trucks with a Spektrum glitch buster and Savox servos with no issues at all. I only swapped to the Airtronics M11X because I felt it had more features.

CoyoteSlash

iTrader: (8)

I wasn't looking for Answers,

And, Of course if you're on the Appropriate forum, you get the right answer for what you're using. And you'll also get Spektrum Fanboys on the Spektrum forum defending themselves, and on the Futaba Forum, guys speaking out against Spektrum. You don't get a conversation retaining to the vehicle you drive with other's who drive it in relation to what item you want to use with it; and they're experience with it on said item. I think my point is very valid, however I was done with the debate. I know what Spektrum can do, and what Futaba guys spew as far as bad rap. I work in the Local scene, and the guys who just want stuff to work without a hard-headed opinion based off reading, or lack of knowledge thus blame a Reciever? They never had an issue. The guys who come in and say "No, I don't want Spek/JR" 90% of the time... Were 'told' that and I ask "by a Futaba guy?" and what do you think the answer is?

Spektrum users just want to Enjoy the hobby without spending an extra 300.00 for a name. (if you've held a DX7/8 or DX3r/Pro they are anything but cheap feeling)
Futaba guys are some of the most opinionated people i've ever met in this Hobby. (case by case basis)
You Airtronics guys usually keep quiet, and watch the War wage.

(defending Spektrum and in no way attacking the legacy and quality of Futaba and Airtronics)
---------

I'm done now! I want an update about this Bearing from Beyond!

BlueGlowBoy

iTrader: (2)

totally know what you're saying....I couldn't find anything on them either....thought I was loosing my mind. I put one of these bearings on top of the bearings that go into the gearbox that holds the topshafts....my manual says that those are supposed to be 6x12x4...these are absolutely identical inner diameter, outer diameter, and just slightly thinner....and my manual says that both front hub bearings (inner and outer) are 6x12x4....but these fit!! my calipers show 3.46mm...the double rubber sealed ones measure 3.98mm....gah!!!! head games.....it's all a conspiracy to leave me here scratching my head for hours when nothing is wrong! (still not sure why only one side is rubber sealed..and yes, they came off my truck..I only have one vehicle apart at a time and every part goes into a Plano box....so far, no extra parts...I only have 4 bearings left, which belong in the rear hub carriers, which will be assembled later....)

Ok, enough ranting about nothing being wrong...back to polishing hinge pins and re-assembling my truck!

CoyoteSlash

iTrader: (8)

If it's actually a metal sealed one side, I don't know. But I have had the rubber seal pop off dozens of times and disapearing. so I think it 'was' a normal bearing. If it fits, and the shafts enter the bearing fine, no slop, screw it. Put it together.

But the front outside bearing is supposed to be 6x12x4, along with both inside and out on the rear. haha, goodluck!

Edit: and correction, I said the wrong bearing in my last post you quoted, being stupid. Not 5x10x3. Typo.