coconut

Nice clean setup. Looks good. Is that a futaba receiver and transponder on the other side of the esc?

BlueGlowBoy

iTrader: (2)

+100!!!! Holy smokes NEVER EVER reverse wires with a sensored setup!!! You're lucky you didn't smoke anything.

Wires A/A B/B C/C like Coyote mentions is essential since the sensors inside rely on this!

In a sensorless set up, swapping wires is not a problem since there is no sensor to deal with.

BlueGlowBoy

iTrader: (2)

Most motors will go up to 170F without worry about failure, but that is as high as I'd push any of my (non-LRP) motors. (LRP motors tend to run hotter, but can withstand the extra heat.)

I don't have experience with the Reedy motors though. I know that back in the Brushed days, they were one of the better motors, but brushed and brushless are two different monsters.

riverdog

Got it running the correct direction now. It was set to "reversed" in the castlelink software. Now in "normal" all is good. All I have to do now is get these new promatch 5000 50c's charged so I can see what breaks next! Yee haa! These trucks are a bit spendy.....

Thanks for the suggestions; I'm glad I didn't fry anything in the process.

spencerracing00

iTrader: (1)

ok i found the page with the pin mod explanation but can someone tell me how this works better. isnt the shaft and slipper plate already squared off so it doesnt turn on the shaft. so what exactly is the pin doing then??

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

The rear one is keyed to the shaft, but the front one is decoupled. Adding the pin keys the front to the rear 1:1. It works in a situation where you don't want to slip the front independently from the rear, such as a hardpacked, low grip, outdoor track that ruts badly in spots where you need to be on power in the ruts.

Nobody ever runs a big race on a track like that, but a lot of us race on tracks like that week in and week out.

Cameron Kellogg

iTrader: (45)

The pin locks the front and rear together so there is no slip front to back. 1/10 4x4 buggy is this way. The slipper then is the slipper for the whole drivetrain and not shared half to the back and half to the front.

Better? Some like it some don't depends on your driving and track. I personally did not care for it.

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

Are you still running the overdriven front?

jdg_rit

Finished up building some braces. I know others build these, but they are thinner and glue screws into the shaft. Mine are threaded into aluminum.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49053815@N03/6708820819/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49053815@N03/6708820931/

The brace kit removes chassis flex, which causes belt slippage, premature wear, or loss of the belt. The brace is also essential for high grip applications such as carpet or asphalt. The kit comes assembled with the rear mounting screw and locknut. Use what the pros use.

Three simple steps:
1. Remove front underbody mount and install brace end with screw.
2. Mark rear hole and drill through transmission brace with a 1/8" drill (not supplied).
3. Install brace with the supplied screw and locknut.
That's it! You are ready to race.

$18 with free shipping. Lower 48 states and to a verified address.
PayPal to: [email protected]
Shipment within 1 to 2 business days after payment.

If you have any questions check out our Facebook page or contact Jarodd at [email protected] or 607-316-1798.

Thomas P

Looking ace mate !!

Tp

Cameron Kellogg

iTrader: (45)

No I temporarly gave up on that and for the same reasons Cherry stated a few post back.

For me the truck is more consistant driving through and out of corners with the standard pulley. The 19 give more on power steering but was causing over steer for me ocationaly because your steering was also depended on how much power you applied out of the corner. Video of my truck occationaly would do a "S" where I would apply throttle, oversteer then I would straighten up and need to correct to continue straight. I also found the truck to get loose under hard braking on our layout. 20t is more consistant for me and my lack of "Pro" driving skills; maybe for the right track I would try it again.

lodhammerdin

iTrader: (77)

Nope. He's got an airtronics one. Same one I use.

lodhammerdin

iTrader: (77)

You might want to put a price on this sir. And maybe make a thread in the market area.

jdg_rit

Updated with price. $18 with free shipping to lower 48 states.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

Is there a chassis brace that doesn't use the underbody holes to mount to? I have to run a underbody, I get too much track dust, clay, loam, sand, etc underneath and want to protect my electronics.