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Old 01-15-2012, 10:07 PM
  #15016  
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Originally Posted by lodhammerdin
Theres a guy at my track with a losi and pro4 4600 (dont know his settings) but he can barley keep up with me down the straight and cant clear the big double on the back straight. I run a lrp 550 5.5 with 3 boost and 0 timing. Is this because my truck is lighter or he has it turned way down?
I have an rx8 with pro 4000. Run on high bite track. Track is 6800sq ft. Not sure if you need some much info but what does timing do and boost? Thanks
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:08 PM
  #15017  
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Originally Posted by j_blaze14
tenshock sc401 or 411, i want to keep up with the pro 4's on a budget, without melting spur gears.
yesterday I saw 2 brandnew losi's with the tenshock sc401 5200kv
they can run max 7 minutes before everything thermals out. motor got over 100 degree celcius and 2 brand new nanotech lipo's dead because the plug was melted.
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by IRM616
I have an rx8 with pro 4000. Run on high bite track. Track is 6800sq ft. Not sure if you need some much info but what does timing do and boost? Thanks
Timing:

Motor Timing can be adjusted in 2 ways with a sensored motor, or in one way if the motor is sensorless. The common way for to adjust timing for both motor types is in the speed control’s software. Users can adjust a value called Timing Advance to increase kV. With a sensored motor, timing can also be adjusted by physically turning the timing ring on the motor.

Boost:

Adjusts the percentage of the timing added, which is applied to the motor based on it‘s RPM.

Hope this helps and make sense.
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:16 PM
  #15019  
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Default Another Pro4 and MMP question

I just got my new pro4 wired up to the MMP and it is silky smooth and sounds great. But.....it only runs backwards. I swapped 2 of the 3 wires and it coggs and sounds really weird. I then swapped a different two wires and the same thing happened. Any suggestions? Thanks,

The sensor is hooked up and the MMP is in sensor motor mode. I just took a castle motor out and it ran forward.
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:21 PM
  #15020  
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Originally Posted by lodhammerdin
Timing:

Motor Timing can be adjusted in 2 ways with a sensored motor, or in one way if the motor is sensorless. The common way for to adjust timing for both motor types is in the speed control’s software. Users can adjust a value called Timing Advance to increase kV. With a sensored motor, timing can also be adjusted by physically turning the timing ring on the motor.

Boost:

Adjusts the percentage of the timing added, which is applied to the motor based on it‘s RPM.

Hope this helps and make sense.

Got it, I do have the hotwire and few ppl adviced to have it all turned down and seeing ppl here using it makes me want to look into those things. I get what the boost does just need to read up on timing and the performance of it. Thanks
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:23 PM
  #15021  
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Originally Posted by IRM616
Got it, I do have the hotwire and few ppl adviced to have it all turned down and seeing ppl here using it makes me want to look into those things. I get what the boost does just need to read up on timing and the performance of it. Thanks
yup yup. It really depend on the track (size, surface, grip) and your driving style.
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:24 PM
  #15022  
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Originally Posted by rcjunky10
Start with the nut flush to the end of the top shaft. Adjust from there. Remember that you want some slip otherwise you'll be going through idler gears like yesterday's undies!
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
CEW , I use the heavy duty duty Ae slippers pads and have 4 m of the shaft showing.....
Thank you both for the info. I did some testing (in the house today) and found it was slipping quite a bit with .5mm showing. I find it a little difficult to tell exactly how much slip I'm getting. I tightened it down so that 2mm is showing It still seems to slip a little (on carpet), but far less. I look forward to trying it out at the track on Wednesday.
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:26 PM
  #15023  
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Originally Posted by riverdog
I just got my new pro4 wired up to the MMP and it is silky smooth and sounds great. But.....it only runs backwards. I swapped 2 of the 3 wires and it coggs and sounds really weird. I then swapped a different two wires and the same thing happened. Any suggestions? Thanks,

The sensor is hooked up and the MMP is in sensor motor mode. I just took a castle motor out and it ran forward.
Had the same problem on mine, process of elimination got it working but here is a short cut. Red from MMP to A on Motor, White to B and Black to C. That should get you spinning the right direction with no Cogging.

Good luck!
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by riverdog
I just got my new pro4 wired up to the MMP and it is silky smooth and sounds great. But.....it only runs backwards. I swapped 2 of the 3 wires and it coggs and sounds really weird. I then swapped a different two wires and the same thing happened. Any suggestions? Thanks,

The sensor is hooked up and the MMP is in sensor motor mode. I just took a castle motor out and it ran forward.
If you have the Wires A/A B/B C/C and it's running backwards. You need to reverse the Motor direction in CastleLINK. Only way.
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CEW
Thank you both for the info. I did some testing (in the house today) and found it was slipping quite a bit with .5mm showing. I find it a little difficult to tell exactly how much slip I'm getting. I tightened it down so that 2mm is showing It still seems to slip a little (on carpet), but far less. I look forward to trying it out at the track on Wednesday.
I do my slipper tuning at the track after they have watered. I put the nut flush and go full throttle and listen for the "squeal" and watch the take of and go in 1 turn incriments from there. After I get my slipper to where I want it, I will normally go 1/2 to 1 full turn tighter before the race depending on the tracks moisture levels. Testing the slipper on the carpet never works IMO. Carpet and rubber tires like ours, not baldies, have great deals of grip.
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:34 PM
  #15026  
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Originally Posted by AzFittin
Had the same problem on mine, process of elimination got it working but here is a short cut. Red from MMP to A on Motor, White to B and Black to C. That should get you spinning the right direction with no Cogging.

Good luck!
Thanks for the reply, I am hooked up in that order.

Coyote- what is this about reversing the rotation with the castle link? Not the field link but the usb? I have not hooked the mmp up to the computer yet. Any tips. I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks,
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by riverdog
Thanks for the reply, I am hooked up in that order.

Coyote- what is this about reversing the rotation with the castle link? Not the field link but the usb? I have not hooked the mmp up to the computer yet. Any tips. I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks,
Bummer, thought that would do it for you. Hopefully reversing it via the software as Coyote is mentioning will get it working for you. Mine is not reversed (tried that when I was having issues) so I am curious to hear!
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by riverdog
Thanks for the reply, I am hooked up in that order.

Coyote- what is this about reversing the rotation with the castle link? Not the field link but the usb? I have not hooked the mmp up to the computer yet. Any tips. I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks,
USB CastleLINK, there's a motor direction choice. No explaination required. change it to reversed and you're done.
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:45 AM
  #15029  
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My RTR 4x4 3500 Reedy motor is getting up to 165F 74C. Is that ok/normal to run it at those temps? Its all standard from the box.
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:03 AM
  #15030  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
How about: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ferential-Lube ?

Someone a few pages back was saying it was "tough as gorilla snot"
Been using it for a couple years. It is that good.
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