9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
05-13-2011, 08:13 PM
#9496
Now I'm confused. I have been running Neu motors for a long time and I am very familiar with how they name their motors. I just checked castles site and it says that the 1410 and 1415 are two different diameters. Is that correct? It says the 1410 is 25mm and the 1415 is 36mm. That has to be incorrect for the 1410? Right?
According to the numbers they should both be the same dia. and the second two numbers are definately the length.
According to the numbers they should both be the same dia. and the second two numbers are definately the length.
05-13-2011, 08:21 PM
#9497
Now I'm confused. I have been running Neu motors for a long time and I am very familiar with how they name their motors. I just checked castles site and it says that the 1410 and 1415 are two different diameters. Is that correct? It says the 1410 is 25mm and the 1415 is 36mm. That has to be incorrect for the 1410? Right?
According to the numbers they should both be the same dia. and the second two numbers are definately the length.
According to the numbers they should both be the same dia. and the second two numbers are definately the length.
05-13-2011, 08:25 PM
#9498
losi guys. looking to possibly convert my ten-te to a SCTE. this is what i have for a parts list. am i missing anything (other than body/wheels)?
Chassis: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2411]
Axle (2): TEN-SCTE [LOSB3574]
Sideguards: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2419]
Front Bumper Pack: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2421]
Rear Bumper Pack: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2417]
Center Rear Drive Shaft: TEN-SCTE [LOSB3578]
Body Posts: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2414]
Wheel Hex (4) w/Pins: TEN-SCTE [LOSB3495]
look good?
Chassis: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2411]
Axle (2): TEN-SCTE [LOSB3574]
Sideguards: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2419]
Front Bumper Pack: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2421]
Rear Bumper Pack: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2417]
Center Rear Drive Shaft: TEN-SCTE [LOSB3578]
Body Posts: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2414]
Wheel Hex (4) w/Pins: TEN-SCTE [LOSB3495]
look good?
05-13-2011, 08:31 PM
#9499
agreed, castle makes very strong motors, just like the 1410 the 1415 is a 4 pole beast.... the 1415 can handle the scte and them some even on 2s geared up and work within temp range. It's just a better choice for those running a 3s setups. I was just pointing out it's not necessarily the best choice for all.. just have to consider if you are locked to 2s if you want the extra inefficiencies.. added heat loss in the coils, and keep in mind the added weight for not only the motor but the extra large pinions.. if you are watching your weight it is something to consider.
I do agree however that on 3s the 1415 is hard to beat...really goes good.
05-13-2011, 08:53 PM
#9501
The part numbers are on the first post of the first page of this thread along with pix. It's a super useful post and SaladFork keeps updating it to include the latest parts and useful tips for this truck, so keep checking back 
I use the Ryobi 4v, $30 bux at Home Depot and it has an adjustable clutch so you dont over tighten stuff. This thing has made my RC life significantly better! Then I used the Losi 8-1 tool for the tips, they fit the driver perfectly
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...cStoreNum=1002
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hex-Wrench-Kit
Also does any one here use a power screw driver to work on RC's? I have been looking at a few and most are around 100.00 for a small driver, anyone had any luck with a cheaper driver for wrenching on RC'S? Don't want to strip things out but would like to speed the process up, I seen the guys at the hobby shop using power tools and the light bulb went off in my head like ooh yeah why didn't I think of that. Still haven't found a great tool for the job yet.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...cStoreNum=1002
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hex-Wrench-Kit
05-13-2011, 09:10 PM
#9502
losi guys. looking to possibly convert my ten-te to a SCTE. this is what i have for a parts list. am i missing anything (other than body/wheels)?
Chassis: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2411]
Axle (2): TEN-SCTE [LOSB3574]
Sideguards: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2419]
Front Bumper Pack: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2421]
Rear Bumper Pack: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2417]
Center Rear Drive Shaft: TEN-SCTE [LOSB3578]
Body Posts: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2414]
Wheel Hex (4) w/Pins: TEN-SCTE [LOSB3495]
look good?
Chassis: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2411]
Axle (2): TEN-SCTE [LOSB3574]
Sideguards: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2419]
Front Bumper Pack: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2421]
Rear Bumper Pack: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2417]
Center Rear Drive Shaft: TEN-SCTE [LOSB3578]
Body Posts: TEN-SCTE [LOSB2414]
Wheel Hex (4) w/Pins: TEN-SCTE [LOSB3495]
look good?
05-13-2011, 09:53 PM
#9503
05-13-2011, 10:07 PM
#9504
I don't know if Losi came out with some serrated wheel nuts, but most people use the Traxxas blue Slash 4x4 wheel nuts because they're serrated, cheap and look good. I think Pep Boys even carries them since they carry Traxxas stuff, or at least they used to.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ed-Nuts-Blue-4
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ed-Nuts-Blue-4
05-13-2011, 10:09 PM
#9505
You can't have too much play really. As long as the bar is in the retainers, you can take the little set screws out and it won't make any difference. If they are too tight, you will feel a difference, so erring on the side of sloppy is good.
05-13-2011, 11:13 PM
#9506
Suspended
hey all me again the nut putting the vxl in scte. well with 3 batterys threw and 10 min. hard passes then checking temps. cool down for 5 min. in between, never got above 111 running and 122 at a stop, so far so good. i started in the basement with a 12t. my 14 and 16 t are coming in soon so i can up my temps a little. but even with just the 12 she is tourqey out of the hole and still good up stairs. dont worry my 3800 1410 and mmp are on their way. just ordered, had this laying around so why not throw it in while i wait. did better than i thought. well i will update with pics and vids later on. well thanks for all the help
Last edited by rcman45; 05-14-2011 at 09:57 AM.
05-14-2011, 05:09 AM
#9507
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...ce5716_300.jpg
I use the same little drill works great but you don't have a chuck which is fine I made up a adapter to put a old small drill chuck on so I could drill holes with it at the track without buying the drill with the hex end.
I use the same little drill works great but you don't have a chuck which is fine I made up a adapter to put a old small drill chuck on so I could drill holes with it at the track without buying the drill with the hex end.
05-14-2011, 07:57 AM
#9508
Also does any one here use a power screw driver to work on RC's? I have been looking at a few and most are around 100.00 for a small driver, anyone had any luck with a cheaper driver for wrenching on RC'S? Don't want to strip things out but would like to speed the process up, I seen the guys at the hobby shop using power tools and the light bulb went off in my head like ooh yeah why didn't I think of that. Still haven't found a great tool for the job yet.
Hitachi All the way, The Makita is imo a little larger then I would personally prefer. A Clutch is Very Important at first to learn the gun and how powerful it is. If your on a serious budget the cheaper units from Home depot or your cheap tool center's will work, But the hitachi is Imo the best of the best. Light weight, powerful, 2 batteries, And A LOT of people use them at the track so If you forget to charge a pack or something more then likely you'll have a spare on the next table.
Ryan said the carbon towers are in stock. Not sure about hinge pin retainers.
You can get both from Steve at SNR http://www.snrgraphite.com/index.php...index&cPath=13
He doesn't have his carbon hinge pin retainers on his site, but email him at [email protected] and he will get them to you.
You can get both from Steve at SNR http://www.snrgraphite.com/index.php...index&cPath=13
He doesn't have his carbon hinge pin retainers on his site, but email him at [email protected] and he will get them to you.
the weight difference is more drastic then normal as the stock plates are steel not alum like on 95% of other kits. While the SNR plates are a Big weight saving's I feel for most of the SC racing population the Steel was a Very Smart idea on Losi's part to keep those arms/toe plates in check.
05-14-2011, 07:58 AM
#9509
the 1415 is a 550 sized 4 pole motor, the 1410 is a 540 sized 4 pole motor.
The 1410 on 2s will have as much or more torque as the 1415 on a 2s setup due to the low RPM's on the 1415. You can gear up the 1415 to get similar maybe even more effective torque but at a huge cost of efficiency.. both in heat and how much mAH you burn off your batteries.. it is very inefficient running at that low of a RPM. The 3800 is just under 30k which is the "magic" number, the 1415 is only at like 18k rpm which is pretty bad. On 3s lipo it's another story altogether.. the 1415 is pretty sweet.
The 1410 on 2s will have as much or more torque as the 1415 on a 2s setup due to the low RPM's on the 1415. You can gear up the 1415 to get similar maybe even more effective torque but at a huge cost of efficiency.. both in heat and how much mAH you burn off your batteries.. it is very inefficient running at that low of a RPM. The 3800 is just under 30k which is the "magic" number, the 1415 is only at like 18k rpm which is pretty bad. On 3s lipo it's another story altogether.. the 1415 is pretty sweet.
05-14-2011, 07:59 AM
#9510