Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
#9391
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
The very first thing I would do, is take all the shocks off, and make sure the arms pivot free on the hingepins. 99.9% of pre built vehicles...they do not move smoothly. They should flop freely when you turn the car upside down, then rightside up....should be zero friction essentially. If they don't, use a 3.5mm reamer on the arms. The captured rod ends also have a habit of biting on the balls a little too hard and can cause binding...I suggest the better losi 8ight 2.0 rod ends. they almost never bind. The set screws that snug up the swaybars may also be too tight. Back those out till there's slop in the swaybars and it wiggles around.
make sure the rear shock tower isn't bent forward. If it bends too far, it binds on the shock caps. If it's just bent a little, you will notice the body fitting kinda funny. If you run a stock rear tower, and a stock rear bumper....you will eventually bend the rear shock tower beyond functionality.....regardless of what the factory Losi guys try to tell you.
Make sure the shock nuts on the tower aren't too tight, and binding the shock tops. The shocks should wiggle some when you twist them. If the nuts are too tight, it will distort the plastic insert and bind.
Check to make sure you dont have a hex thats stripping out in the wheels, Ive seen that cause some very erradic handling before they completely go out.
After that, I'd check to make sure the diff's are functioning freely.
There shouldn't be any spinning out with this truck...if you can't enter a corner extremely aggressively, there's likely something wrong with the truck.
All the time, guys come to me saying their truck doesn't handle like our group of friends. Almost always, the difference can be attributed to poor maintenance and suspension that is binding somewhere. IT'S ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL, that the suspension be free, or everything else you change is meaningless. A good rule of thumb is "SLOPPY IS FAST"
make sure the rear shock tower isn't bent forward. If it bends too far, it binds on the shock caps. If it's just bent a little, you will notice the body fitting kinda funny. If you run a stock rear tower, and a stock rear bumper....you will eventually bend the rear shock tower beyond functionality.....regardless of what the factory Losi guys try to tell you.
Make sure the shock nuts on the tower aren't too tight, and binding the shock tops. The shocks should wiggle some when you twist them. If the nuts are too tight, it will distort the plastic insert and bind.
Check to make sure you dont have a hex thats stripping out in the wheels, Ive seen that cause some very erradic handling before they completely go out.
After that, I'd check to make sure the diff's are functioning freely.
There shouldn't be any spinning out with this truck...if you can't enter a corner extremely aggressively, there's likely something wrong with the truck.
All the time, guys come to me saying their truck doesn't handle like our group of friends. Almost always, the difference can be attributed to poor maintenance and suspension that is binding somewhere. IT'S ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL, that the suspension be free, or everything else you change is meaningless. A good rule of thumb is "SLOPPY IS FAST"
loving it!!
#9393
Ryan or anyone who knows, when will the hardened outdrives be available? It says May 11 but they still show out of stock. Please tell me that they will last longer than the stock ones. I have been replacing mine way too much. Running the 1410/rx8 combo on 2s and they show wear after 1 battery pack (yes 1). They are unusable after about 10 battery packs (have to switch them around). Just want to get this thing fixed. Really it's the only thing left that I'm having problems with. The rest of the truck is AWESOME!!!
#9394
I tried it and it didnt work for me...was curious, haha.
Well, no, you would end up with an 810 which is a great buggy. I have one converted to electric and it is so much fun.
The carbon towers should be in stock everywhere that has them on BO in the next 1-2 weeks if you want the losi ones. They arrive in about a week. The rear bumpers should be around at this point. However this next shipment will be the updated ones.
Hope it works out for you. If you want to try the updated version, they should be arriving soon so some of what will be on shelves will be the updated ones.
So are the Carbon Fiber shock towers sold out everywhere? I've bent the stock and the aluminum one now. I would have got the CF one but couldn't find it, so bought the alum. one in the meantime.
Also is there a replacement for the rear bumper? I thought I read somethign about it but can't find anything about it.
Also is there a replacement for the rear bumper? I thought I read somethign about it but can't find anything about it.
Hope it works out for you. If you want to try the updated version, they should be arriving soon so some of what will be on shelves will be the updated ones.
#9396
Well, I gotta say, in my opinion, there was a lot of talk about HB and Mugen 8th scales and for an SCTE forum, it may be seen as a bit odd, lol. Oh well though...at least it was constructive.
#9397
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
So, I ran my truck on a track for the first time tonight. So freakin fast. This thing nose dives heavily. I cartwheeled it a bunch of times. Bent my rear shocktower in the process.
Over the big jumps where I get some air, I can stay in the throttle, then as it parachutes jab the brakes to flatten it out. My problem though is how to fix it on small jumps. There are several small jumps at my track where you might get 1 foot of air. And there's sharp turns immediately after the jumps.
Are there any suspension tweaks I can do to stop this thing from wanting to front flip all the time?
Over the big jumps where I get some air, I can stay in the throttle, then as it parachutes jab the brakes to flatten it out. My problem though is how to fix it on small jumps. There are several small jumps at my track where you might get 1 foot of air. And there's sharp turns immediately after the jumps.
Are there any suspension tweaks I can do to stop this thing from wanting to front flip all the time?
#9399
LOL, I've been pretty quiet lately. Nothing has set my B.S. meter off or anything, and all the questions that have been asked have been answered pretty well, so I've been quiet That could change though this week, my freaking Nissan Titan got hailed on and dinged the shiz out of my roof, hood, and hard tonneau cover, and I'm so sore I can barely walk after the local track build. Couple that with rain for the next 6 days, and life is becoming aggravating. I may be looking for some anger venting opportunities soon
Anyone have any ideas how much the paint free dent repair costs for about 100 hail dings? Maybe the insurance will cover a new Glassworks hood
Anyone have any ideas how much the paint free dent repair costs for about 100 hail dings? Maybe the insurance will cover a new Glassworks hood
#9400
Ryan or anyone who knows, when will the hardened outdrives be available? It says May 11 but they still show out of stock. Please tell me that they will last longer than the stock ones. I have been replacing mine way too much. Running the 1410/rx8 combo on 2s and they show wear after 1 battery pack (yes 1). They are unusable after about 10 battery packs (have to switch them around). Just want to get this thing fixed. Really it's the only thing left that I'm having problems with. The rest of the truck is AWESOME!!!
So, I ran my truck on a track for the first time tonight. So freakin fast. This thing nose dives heavily. I cartwheeled it a bunch of times. Bent my rear shocktower in the process.
Over the big jumps where I get some air, I can stay in the throttle, then as it parachutes jab the brakes to flatten it out. My problem though is how to fix it on small jumps. There are several small jumps at my track where you might get 1 foot of air. And there's sharp turns immediately after the jumps.
Are there any suspension tweaks I can do to stop this thing from wanting to front flip all the time?
Over the big jumps where I get some air, I can stay in the throttle, then as it parachutes jab the brakes to flatten it out. My problem though is how to fix it on small jumps. There are several small jumps at my track where you might get 1 foot of air. And there's sharp turns immediately after the jumps.
Are there any suspension tweaks I can do to stop this thing from wanting to front flip all the time?
#9401
I ended up posting my own thread so hopefully the talk about the other buggies will die down over here.
Again, thanks to all who have given me their insight on which buggy to go with.
#9403
#9404
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
scte with castle 1410 and monster mamba
So I actually got some.good laps in tonight on a nice.tacky track using.the castle 1410 with the monster mamba esc. Overall power of the motor was great just not to crazy about the low end lag. Any one have suggestions to help eliminate that? I'm going to re-try my novak 4.5 w/14mm motor. I think I like that more to be honest with you.. any suggestions would be great maybe fix the lag issue with the. Castle set up.
#9405
Very nice! Who's selling that CF chassis?
By the way, gotta love how some folks will be using the SCTE's sway bars on the SC10 4x4 lol
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...modify-47.html
Just one more reason why I sold my SC10 4x4 and kept my SCTE
By the way, gotta love how some folks will be using the SCTE's sway bars on the SC10 4x4 lol
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...modify-47.html
Just one more reason why I sold my SC10 4x4 and kept my SCTE