9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
05-06-2011, 01:17 PM
#8806
Been reading this beast for many hours/days, trying to catchup to current. Finally made it to p. 500, but nothing concrete on a chassis cover/shroud. I did see someone flipped a Slash 4x4 shroud around backwards, but didn't want to piece something together.......lets do it right the first time.
The Outerwears shroud is what I'm wanting, but their current reply is that they can't get a chassis to use for a template.....therefore, none available. I see they're on Hwy 131 in Schoolcraft, Michigan. Do we have any racers in that area that could take their rig by their shop so Outerwears can get the dimensions? We race outdoors, and the rig gets loaded w/ crap pretty quick, thus the need for a cover/shroud. And, since heat is going to be an issue soon, the breathable shroud seems to be the way to go.
Also, two of us are running these w/ a good ole Novak GTB ESC w/ the Novak Ballistic 4.5 550 geared at 15/40. Spoke to Novak, who said it'd be just fine to run that combo. Temps are/will become a problem, & it may nuke this ESC. And, we considered a CC Momba Max to run their new 4-pole 1410 (??) motor. Spoke w/ CC who swears that the original MM will perform as well if not better than the MMP, etc. We're seasoned 1/10 offroad racers w/ spare equipment laying around. After the MANY posts of CC vs Tekin, what are some thoughts? Bettin we'll be replacing soon, due to excessive summer heat in the south.
The Outerwears shroud is what I'm wanting, but their current reply is that they can't get a chassis to use for a template.....therefore, none available. I see they're on Hwy 131 in Schoolcraft, Michigan. Do we have any racers in that area that could take their rig by their shop so Outerwears can get the dimensions? We race outdoors, and the rig gets loaded w/ crap pretty quick, thus the need for a cover/shroud. And, since heat is going to be an issue soon, the breathable shroud seems to be the way to go.
Also, two of us are running these w/ a good ole Novak GTB ESC w/ the Novak Ballistic 4.5 550 geared at 15/40. Spoke to Novak, who said it'd be just fine to run that combo. Temps are/will become a problem, & it may nuke this ESC. And, we considered a CC Momba Max to run their new 4-pole 1410 (??) motor. Spoke w/ CC who swears that the original MM will perform as well if not better than the MMP, etc. We're seasoned 1/10 offroad racers w/ spare equipment laying around. After the MANY posts of CC vs Tekin, what are some thoughts? Bettin we'll be replacing soon, due to excessive summer heat in the south.
Im sure it would handle this truck with no problem and if you are running the 1410 motor, it doesn't have sensors so it doesn't really matter. Id just plug the old mamba max you have into the laptop and toss the latest software on it and you should be just fine. Now that you mention this, I may drag my old Mamba max out of my scrap heap and give it a try. It might actually be better than the MMP if it doesn't have the quirky BEC issues the MMP seems to have.
05-06-2011, 01:28 PM
#8807
Nope, Tekin exclusive.
Push works just fine for brushless or brushed. It is simply recommended for brushed to counteract the typical increased drag when free spinning a brushed motor over its brushless counterpart.
Push effectively increases how long your car will free wheel after applying the throttle by "tapering off" the power going to the motor whenever you retreat to neutral on your radio. How long/powerful the trailoff is is calculated by how long you were at the previous throttle position and how much throttle you were applying. Most motors don't have very much drag in them at all at this point, but if you find yourself feeling like you have drag brakes even though they are turned off on the esc, Push can definitely help smooth out your corner entry.
I would try settings in the 20 to 30 range to start and see how you like it.
Also, push can still be used in conjunction with drag brakes. Whatever setting you have for drag brakes will kick in after the "push" throttle taper off has reached zero.
Push works just fine for brushless or brushed. It is simply recommended for brushed to counteract the typical increased drag when free spinning a brushed motor over its brushless counterpart.
Push effectively increases how long your car will free wheel after applying the throttle by "tapering off" the power going to the motor whenever you retreat to neutral on your radio. How long/powerful the trailoff is is calculated by how long you were at the previous throttle position and how much throttle you were applying. Most motors don't have very much drag in them at all at this point, but if you find yourself feeling like you have drag brakes even though they are turned off on the esc, Push can definitely help smooth out your corner entry.
I would try settings in the 20 to 30 range to start and see how you like it.
Also, push can still be used in conjunction with drag brakes. Whatever setting you have for drag brakes will kick in after the "push" throttle taper off has reached zero.
Again, I could be wrong but I tried to do this yesterday before I got my hotwire and I couldn't do it. If it takes hotwire, I got one yesterday but haven't had time to install it and try it out.
05-06-2011, 01:34 PM
#8808
You should use the hotwire on your esc, it will give you more and finer setups for it than you can set manually. Also make sure to update the firmware on your esc to the Vegas 212 firmware if you havn't already. It has even more adjustments as well as helps the motor run more efficently.
05-06-2011, 01:42 PM
#8809
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Looks like my updated pins are en route.
Hacker/Ryan, can you let me know if the date for the HD outdrives is more of a fuzzy number or if Horizon has tracking data, etc. to back up when you guys are expecting them? I don't want to waste my time rebuilding my diffs now only to do it again before my big race on 5/21.
Hacker/Ryan, can you let me know if the date for the HD outdrives is more of a fuzzy number or if Horizon has tracking data, etc. to back up when you guys are expecting them? I don't want to waste my time rebuilding my diffs now only to do it again before my big race on 5/21.
05-06-2011, 01:42 PM
#8810
Well then do you need the hotwire to program it? Again, looking at the programming choices built in to the ESC, pushing the mode button X times (forgot how many) will allow you to change settings for push control only on brushed. If you are running brushless and go to the same light with the mode button you will only be programming brake strength.
Again, I could be wrong but I tried to do this yesterday before I got my hotwire and I couldn't do it. If it takes hotwire, I got one yesterday but haven't had time to install it and try it out.
Again, I could be wrong but I tried to do this yesterday before I got my hotwire and I couldn't do it. If it takes hotwire, I got one yesterday but haven't had time to install it and try it out.
05-06-2011, 01:48 PM
#8811
wrong thread =)
05-06-2011, 01:56 PM
#8812
Been reading this beast for many hours/days, trying to catchup to current. Finally made it to p. 500, but nothing concrete on a chassis cover/shroud. I did see someone flipped a Slash 4x4 shroud around backwards, but didn't want to piece something together.......lets do it right the first time.
The Outerwears shroud is what I'm wanting, but their current reply is that they can't get a chassis to use for a template.....therefore, none available. I see they're on Hwy 131 in Schoolcraft, Michigan. Do we have any racers in that area that could take their rig by their shop so Outerwears can get the dimensions? We race outdoors, and the rig gets loaded w/ crap pretty quick, thus the need for a cover/shroud. And, since heat is going to be an issue soon, the breathable shroud seems to be the way to go.
Also, two of us are running these w/ a good ole Novak GTB ESC w/ the Novak Ballistic 4.5 550 geared at 15/40. Spoke to Novak, who said it'd be just fine to run that combo. Temps are/will become a problem, & it may nuke this ESC. And, we considered a CC Momba Max to run their new 4-pole 1410 (??) motor. Spoke w/ CC who swears that the original MM will perform as well if not better than the MMP, etc. We're seasoned 1/10 offroad racers w/ spare equipment laying around. After the MANY posts of CC vs Tekin, what are some thoughts? Bettin we'll be replacing soon, due to excessive summer heat in the south.
The Outerwears shroud is what I'm wanting, but their current reply is that they can't get a chassis to use for a template.....therefore, none available. I see they're on Hwy 131 in Schoolcraft, Michigan. Do we have any racers in that area that could take their rig by their shop so Outerwears can get the dimensions? We race outdoors, and the rig gets loaded w/ crap pretty quick, thus the need for a cover/shroud. And, since heat is going to be an issue soon, the breathable shroud seems to be the way to go.
Also, two of us are running these w/ a good ole Novak GTB ESC w/ the Novak Ballistic 4.5 550 geared at 15/40. Spoke to Novak, who said it'd be just fine to run that combo. Temps are/will become a problem, & it may nuke this ESC. And, we considered a CC Momba Max to run their new 4-pole 1410 (??) motor. Spoke w/ CC who swears that the original MM will perform as well if not better than the MMP, etc. We're seasoned 1/10 offroad racers w/ spare equipment laying around. After the MANY posts of CC vs Tekin, what are some thoughts? Bettin we'll be replacing soon, due to excessive summer heat in the south.
1410 is better imo than the tekin 4.5 and ae 4.5 with out a doubt. Never tried other kv ratings. MM would be more than enough and has a better bec than the mmp. Mmp is great just sensitive with what servo you use.
Last edited by 8ight-e; 05-06-2011 at 03:46 PM. Reason: added pic
05-06-2011, 03:05 PM
#8814
05-06-2011, 03:21 PM
#8815
I was going to get this, it will fit on a SC truck. Been eyeballing that for the last year, have yet to pick one up. From what I have heard it does cover the wheels on a SC.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Subaru-Impreza
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Subaru-Impreza
05-06-2011, 04:05 PM
#8816
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Well then do you need the hotwire to program it? Again, looking at the programming choices built in to the ESC, pushing the mode button X times (forgot how many) will allow you to change settings for push control only on brushed. If you are running brushless and go to the same light with the mode button you will only be programming brake strength.
Again, I could be wrong but I tried to do this yesterday before I got my hotwire and I couldn't do it. If it takes hotwire, I got one yesterday but haven't had time to install it and try it out.
Again, I could be wrong but I tried to do this yesterday before I got my hotwire and I couldn't do it. If it takes hotwire, I got one yesterday but haven't had time to install it and try it out.
IMO from having 10 Tekin speed controls right now they are totally the
slowest dogs out of the box if you try to use them without a Hot Wire &
a laptop.
I've tried the RX8,RS,RS Pro all out of the box by tuning them with the
buttons on the ESC and the motors ran like total dogs until I down loaded
the 208 or 212 into them. Once I was done the down loads the motors
were rockets (total day & night difference) from using the buttons on the
ESC.
05-06-2011, 07:28 PM
#8817
I ran a few packs on the Novak 4.5 14mm rotored Losi today with a 17 tooth pinion. I came in about the same temp as the 16 and I didn't notice much more speed to be honest and I still have plenty of bottom end. Charging the packs now but since I was practing I have no idea what real runtime I am seeing. I picked up an 18 tooth today and will see what it does for speed before racing starts tomorrow. As long as I don't lose noticable bottom end and if the temps stay down I will most likely stay with the 18. I might try a 19 just to see what it does though.
I have a question though. What do you guys see for voltage on a freshly charged 2s?
I have a question though. What do you guys see for voltage on a freshly charged 2s?
05-06-2011, 09:20 PM
#8819
I ran a few packs on the Novak 4.5 14mm rotored Losi today with a 17 tooth pinion. I came in about the same temp as the 16 and I didn't notice much more speed to be honest and I still have plenty of bottom end. Charging the packs now but since I was practing I have no idea what real runtime I am seeing. I picked up an 18 tooth today and will see what it does for speed before racing starts tomorrow. As long as I don't lose noticable bottom end and if the temps stay down I will most likely stay with the 18. I might try a 19 just to see what it does though.
I have a question though. What do you guys see for voltage on a freshly charged 2s?
I have a question though. What do you guys see for voltage on a freshly charged 2s?
05-07-2011, 12:01 AM
#8820
I ran a few packs on the Novak 4.5 14mm rotored Losi today with a 17 tooth pinion. I came in about the same temp as the 16 and I didn't notice much more speed to be honest and I still have plenty of bottom end. Charging the packs now but since I was practing I have no idea what real runtime I am seeing. I picked up an 18 tooth today and will see what it does for speed before racing starts tomorrow. As long as I don't lose noticable bottom end and if the temps stay down I will most likely stay with the 18. I might try a 19 just to see what it does though.
I have a question though. What do you guys see for voltage on a freshly charged 2s?
I have a question though. What do you guys see for voltage on a freshly charged 2s?