8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

Throwing the drive train out of alignment even more than it is now (already elevated stock) will iMO cause more problems than good trying to get anything running smoother and longer.

Not to mention moving the most force (rotating mass) you have in the entire setup to a higher COG point?? really? crazy if you ask me. To each his own though.

I'd rather have a smaller spur, eliminate the current plastic riser under the mounts not only reducing weight but getting an even lower COG. This would also realign the drive train like it is in the nitro version so the center diff is not higher than the front and rear outputs.

Just my 2c

SaladFork

iTrader: (9)

I couldn't and I bet anyone else in the thread can't tell the diff is shimmed 2mm off the chassis. We ran like this for a month before moving to the 40T and honestly I didn't notice a difference.

This was the only option for spurs at the time, the 40T works fine IMO no need to put anything else on there. But the option is there for those who want it.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

My only point was it's not a mod that will really help anyone unless they bought a motor that is running too hot and they need it geared less than an 11t pinion? Not sure what motor falls into that category anyway... so even if there was a slight effeciency to having a larger spur by moving the alignment off further causing more resistance any tiny gain would be muted. I get your point, this option was fine when there was no choice.. but someone will read these comments and do this as a mod thinking they will gain something and in reality they really wouldn't. Even you changed to 40t ;P

S/X Runner

iTrader: (37)

The stock plate that raises the center diff in the SCTE is 2.5mm.

SaladFork

iTrader: (9)

Not sure where you are adding resistance by adding the spur? The angle of the dangle on the drive shafts would not change enought from a 2mm rise to cause any extra resistance. I'm trying to see what you mean, but what I have ran tells me otherwise. It's all good, we could disscuss this for hours lol.

I swapped all the parts I could that had been modded to fit. The only thing I am missing is the front bumper. I bought the rear drive shaft but it's a tad to long for the ERC chassis. I have no heat issues so the 40T works for me.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

It's really not a bid deal, but I was just saying stock nitro the outputs and inputs are even w/ the econversion and 40t it adds 2.5mm of additional angle from the f/r diff outputs to the center diff (not a biggy), to get a 42+ spur in you need 2+more mm making the total now 4.5 to 5mm off (ok getting there). I would think with any system with a perfectly lined up center diff to the front and rear outputs would create less resistance than being off axis but I could be wrong? I agree most won't feel a difference with 2mm of COG difference, but then again many claimed to be able to feel it w/ the tekno conversions as they lower their batteries down into the chassis a few mm (not a bad idea for a future light wieght chassis design). Anyway done on this

hgrove99

Can I use Diff grease to lube up the part on the driveshaft that pivots near the hubs? I believe its called cv joint <---NUBE

SaladFork

iTrader: (9)

I would like to see a better battery tray like you mentioned, pushing it lower on the chassis. I also have a Carbon Fiber chassis for this truck with the kick up. I think it's the only one... Cost me a f-in arm and a leg maybe I should use it lol.

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

Ten-SCTE springs measure .670 I.D. Traxxas Jato Springs measure .695 and I have used these on Ten-T shocks on a Slash 4X4 (on the front).

Also, RC4Less sells a set of Dirt Oval springs with .695" I.D. that are designed for OFNA shocks: http://www.rc4less.com/product_info....5a92337d3dd599

The RC4less springs come in 2 lb increments so not many of their weights are likely to be useful. You can also buy individual pairs instead of the set. I haven't tried the RC4Less springs on Ten-T shocks.

The Jato springs come in smaller weight increments and should be more useful. The extra .025" I.D means the springs don't snap on the adjuster and lower spring cup but they work fine.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

LOL.... Sounds like something snoop dog would say.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

My wife would also say the angle of the dangle creates more resistance

fireflysti

iTrader: (12)

I was inspecting my car after Saturday races and found both front and rear drive shafts cracked at the dog bone end to the center diff. I order replacements but I wish there was a stronger drive shaft available. Here is a picture of the rear drive shaft end:

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

Did you get a rock or something stuck near the diff in there? That outdrive looks like it was rubbing on something pretty bad. Maybe right against the motor? How does the motor look right next to that cup?

fireflysti

iTrader: (12)

Yeah, I had the motor too close to the out drive and it rubbed a little, but that was weeks ago and I fixed that. Same crack is also on the front drive shaft and that one wasn't rubbing anything.

Chuck 21

iTrader: (1)

Thats your story and because it's your opinion your sticking to it I can from
your posts to Saladfork.....LOL"