wrightcs77

iTrader: (551)

Pinion depends on motor.

KTMDirtFace

iTrader: (1)

I'm also a new SCTE owner, got a used roller.

The front driveshaft just fell off the pin fell out somehow looks like the holes are cupped out that the pin goes through I rotated it and put it through 2 fresh holes and buttoned it back up.

Question is this truck uses STANDARD? and not metric? WTF.... is there a screw kit somone can point me to to change it. none of my nice RC tools fit right lol had to use cheap random harbor freight allen keys from the garage.

Also I still can't find a exploded parts view. the one on the first page here is not very good is there a better one that shows all the parts and numbers with 1:1 pictures and sizes of every screw like HPI manuals have?

Dano628

Smiley's setup is on the BCE chassis thread pg 80 .

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

the front driveshaft issue is one that is well known. the newer kits have a slotted pin and a set screw that goes in the coupler. you can go this route or king headz sells a metal sleeve that takes the place of the plastic one which will keep the pin in there. both should work fine.

KTMDirtFace

iTrader: (1)

Thanks phreak, there is a set screw on mine, but it just clamps the thing to the shaft? seems like the plastic outer ring housing is what holds the pin in. What looks like happend is the pin moved and chipped/made the holes bigger. I rotated it to the other two holes that hadnt been used for now.

Do you have a part number for the new one?

Thanks, also is it just the front that does this and not the rear one?

AgroAMG

iTrader: (3)

He is talking about the pin that is inside the cup that keeps the drive shaft in the cup. It has a very tiny set screw in it and the pin is slotted in the middle.

KTMDirtFace

iTrader: (1)

Ok thanks i'll have to look into upgrading that.

Thanks

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

yes, the set screw i was speaking of goes into the coupler (not the one that goes into the slot in the plastic sleeve that holds the CVD on the pinion) and holds the slotted pin in place.

the problem with giving you a part number is that it was a "running change", so the part numbers of the new style and old style are the same. so if you order it online, you won't know if you're getting old stock or new. the part number for the couplers is: LOSB3556 but again, no way of knowing if it's new or old unless you're buying from your LHS and can actually see if it has the set screw.

probably safer to just buy the king headz pieces: http://www.kingheads.com/product_inf...roducts_id=936

between my SCTE and 810 i've gone through 3 front/center CVD's and only 1 rear so the front is much more prone to going south.

KTMDirtFace

iTrader: (1)

Sweet thanks a lot. I'll go with the kingz headz if it falls apart again I got it working fine for now I think.

My LHS doesn't carry squat for anything.

Luckily mine fell out while I was installing a motor and just pushing my truck around on my table

ScottKelly911

iTrader: (9)

Since you said you run Nitro, I'm assuming that you already have a nice radio and probably some good strong 1/8th scale servos. If that's the case, I would certainly get the roller and look into some of the really good motor/esc options out there. There are several very good options and some are quite expensive and others are quite inexpensive, notice I didn't say cheap? That's because there's some really good options out there that are as good/effective as some of the more expensive options. I personally am using the Hobbywing 120amp esc coupled with the Tekin Pro4 4600kv motor and have been super happy with this combo and have been running it since the first batch of Pro4's first hit the shelves. While the RTR radio is very good for an RTR radio, it's still not as good as most serious hobbyists radios, so I assume you've got a good one, go ahead and just get another receiver and put it in the roller. The RTR is a great way to get into the hobby if you don't already have any electronics, but eventually as you get more and more serious, you'll probably start pulling out some of the RTR stuff and upgrade, so you're best bet is to go ahead and get the roller. Hope that helps. Also, there's some great things to do once you get your truck and pretty much essential upgrades, but you can cross that bridge once you get your truck and a lot of them are listed in the first post on the first page of this thread.
Wow, I have to say, I'm intrigued! Thanks for posting them.
Sure would be nice if they were also available in white and yellow, heck why not even AKA RED!!! It'd be nice to finally get some wheels that go outside of the typical black white and yellow. It'd also be cool of some of the aftermarket wheels made provisions to use the Losi wheel rings. I love using the wheel rings because in addition to looking "cool", it also helps you see what your truck is doing out there on the track, for example, one time my truck wouldn't steer for beans, I realized that the wheels weren't turning full lock when under the torque of a turn, yet when I pulled it into the pits, it would turn fine. It was the servo saver coming loose, but knowing what the wheels were doing out there on the track helped me figure out what the problem was a little more quickly. With all black wheels and no beadlock rings, I probably wouldn't have figured it out quite as quickly.

krash'um

iTrader: (4)

Thanks.

krash'um

iTrader: (4)

Hi hacker07 I'm highly considering the TLR chassis but have a question, since you mount your center diff directly to the chassis without the spacer, how did you deal with the holes that are left without it or do you just leave it open without a cover? Thanks.

cavg

Leave'em open! I have run this chassi for months with them open and have had no problems whatsoever.

MOE

iTrader: (14)

I would be interested in seeing this pic

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

Doh!! I ment to say that I have a pro 4 4000kv motor, so what gearing to use on a medium large 1/8 rack with a 150ft straight?