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Old 01-01-2012, 05:18 PM
  #26821  
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Where can I find the ratings for the new springs?
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:34 PM
  #26822  
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Originally Posted by Packfan
I am new to 4/4 SCTE racing and wondering which discharge rate lipo I should use. We have an 80 x 40 track, I will be racing larger tracks this summer. I have a GTB2 with a 5.5, 550 can motor. I have heard different recommendations on which c rating lipo's to use. Most that I have are 40c. I am being told to run a higher "C" rating in the 4/4 over the 2wd. Thanks
Due to waiting on my nano-techs from China I was running my Havoc Pro / 4.5 combo on a Punch RC 5400 35C pack and it did fine. There are quite a few guys running the 5000mAh 40C Gens Ace at my track and they do well also.
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:36 PM
  #26823  
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I'm going to be getting a tekin rx8 w/ the pro4 4600kv this week. 1st sensored system, will I be disappointed?
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:45 PM
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im taking the front diff apart and putting oil in it for the first time, i cleaned all the grease out and put 5k diff fluid in it and putting it back together and when i spin the diff its gritty and dosnt feel right and when i put it in the truck when i turn the wheels it feels like its grinding 1/4 way in the turn of the wheels. ive only done the front diff so far and its done right any of you guys have this problem or is it normal?
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:46 PM
  #26825  
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Originally Posted by kjohnsiii
The new springs are really nice compared to the stock ones. The new ones have a more progressive action to them compared to the old ones. Also the new springs allow you to lower the rear of the truck unlike the stock springs.
I recommend using them.
I have the kit, just wanna to know we're the stock ones fall compare to the kit ones . Are the stock ones stronger or softer. Thank
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:47 PM
  #26826  
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Originally Posted by Feint Motion
I'm going to be getting a tekin rx8 w/ the pro4 4600kv this week. 1st sensored system, will I be disappointed?
nooo
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:51 PM
  #26827  
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Originally Posted by Honu
Where can I find the ratings for the new springs?


Rears
2.7 rate Red springs
3.0 rate Orange springs
3.3 rate Silver springs
3.6 rate Green springs


Fronts
3.6 rate Green springs
3.9 rate Blue springs
4.2 rate Black springs
4.5 rate Purple springs


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Old 01-01-2012, 05:54 PM
  #26828  
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Originally Posted by Factory Seal


Rears
2.7 rate Red springs
3.0 rate Orange springs
3.3 rate Silver springs
3.6 rate Green springs


Fronts
3.6 rate Green springs
3.9 rate Blue springs
4.2 rate Black springs
4.5 rate Purple springs



Lol you beat me to it .
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:58 PM
  #26829  
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Originally Posted by dany5
Lol you beat me to it .
Well not to shabby since i didnt even know we were 'Racing'.......

I'm to used to hearing....Less than five!......Boop!
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Old 01-01-2012, 06:06 PM
  #26830  
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[QUOTE=Factory Seal;10109521]Well not to shabby since i didnt even know we were 'Racing'.......

I'm to used to hearing....Less than five!......Boop!


My transponder is always on. Lol
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Old 01-01-2012, 06:09 PM
  #26831  
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Originally Posted by dfsc10
im taking the front diff apart and putting oil in it for the first time, i cleaned all the grease out and put 5k diff fluid in it and putting it back together and when i spin the diff its gritty and dosnt feel right and when i put it in the truck when i turn the wheels it feels like its grinding 1/4 way in the turn of the wheels. ive only done the front diff so far and its done right any of you guys have this problem or is it normal?
I have read similar posts many times now and it seems like everyone says it is assembled correct but what is the problem and then responses come up suggesting two paper gaskets this makes no sense to me I may be wrong but if the diff was smooth before the diff came apart why would more gap be needed when reasembled. I have rebuilt many diffs on 1/8th scales and several times on my SCTE and also other short course 4x4s and I have ran into similar issue where I pull it apart and clean out old oil/grease then rebuild with new oil and sometimes it seems very tight sometimes it does not spin so I know I made an error so I pull it apart and first make sure the cross pins are both seated flat to flat if that is correct then I know the crown gear on the bottom of the diff case or the crown gear on the top/cover outdrive side is not pushed on far enough I pull the crown gear off clean all the oil under make sure the pin is center and push the gear back on and ones it is lined up I push very hard some diffs even require taking a socket and smacking a couple times to seat it all the way in. After doing these things I have always had smooth diffs and have never ran two gaskets and I rave built 100 plus diffs and my diffs on my scte at least 5 times each.
I am not trying to call any one out here just giving my experience with these issues.
I hope this helps some
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Old 01-01-2012, 06:18 PM
  #26832  
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Originally Posted by alvinsmith75
Here ya go. I'm the green and yellow 44 truck in the lead. I have also tried the aka gridirons but prefer the HB tires for more traction, taller/wider tire and they last me waayyyy longer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6117Rx29EPE
Great that is exactly what I was looking for it looks like almost the same surface I race on hard pack with light top soil wich the gridirons work good on but I really like the extra side pin on the HB tire thanks for the video and nice driving. The car looks like it allows a small amount of slide with out hooking hard looks very good for consistent driving on an inconsistant surface I would be very interested in seeing your setup sheet if you dont mind posting
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Old 01-01-2012, 06:37 PM
  #26833  
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Originally Posted by adubaz7
I have read similar posts many times now and it seems like everyone says it is assembled correct but what is the problem and then responses come up suggesting two paper gaskets this makes no sense to me I may be wrong but if the diff was smooth before the diff came apart why would more gap be needed when reasembled. I have rebuilt many diffs on 1/8th scales and several times on my SCTE and also other short course 4x4s and I have ran into similar issue where I pull it apart and clean out old oil/grease then rebuild with new oil and sometimes it seems very tight sometimes it does not spin so I know I made an error so I pull it apart and first make sure the cross pins are both seated flat to flat if that is correct then I know the crown gear on the bottom of the diff case or the crown gear on the top/cover outdrive side is not pushed on far enough I pull the crown gear off clean all the oil under make sure the pin is center and push the gear back on and ones it is lined up I push very hard some diffs even require taking a socket and smacking a couple times to seat it all the way in. After doing these things I have always had smooth diffs and have never ran two gaskets and I rave built 100 plus diffs and my diffs on my scte at least 5 times each.
I am not trying to call any one out here just giving my experience with these issues.
I hope this helps some
iv done many 8th diffs to and i just redid everything in the scte and there isnt any binding/weirdness at all? sounds good to me!
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Old 01-01-2012, 06:40 PM
  #26834  
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Originally Posted by dfsc10
iv done many 8th diffs to and i just redid everything in the scte and there isnt any binding/weirdness at all? sounds good to me!
so are you saying the issue is gone and it is ready to roll smooth?
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Old 01-01-2012, 07:28 PM
  #26835  
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Soooo glad the HC Shock Bodies finally arrived. That completes the Non-RTR'ish look to the SCTE.
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