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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 01-01-2012, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG
So I got the TLR kit for my SCTE on 11/30/2011 and it's now 1/1/2012 and I noticed today that my rear shock tower is cracked. I'm a bit disappointed. I've dropped a grip in to this truck, buying everything I can find for it (yeah it's fun) and now one is cracked. Bummer. Maybe it was a bad batch from Losi? Anyone have any recommendations? I never even ran my TEN-SCTE with the stock ones, I bought everything and ran it for the first time with all TLR in early december, less than a month later it's toast. Does anyone from Losi read this thread?


From this first picture...there is a noticeable gap difference on the bumper...looks twisted......which makes alot look twisted...i thought the right shock was bent....like i stated it could be the angle of the picture....It looks alot better in the Stock trim......if you have a hard impact.....chances are you could have bent something else.......me personally.... i would have to look at everything back there.....but im anal about my stuff.
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG
What else you think? All I can see is wrong is the shock tower cracked and surprisingly my tire came unglued. It didn't even rip, it is just cleanly not glued to the rim. I re-glued it and will probably use these tires up on the street and swap on some new wheels/tires I have already.

Here is with the stock aluminum shock tower and the stock bumper.
I would defiantly take the hinge pin on that left side out and check it. It still looks like it's bent on that side a little.
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Old 01-01-2012, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Factory Seal
From this first picture...there is a noticeable gap difference on the bumper...looks twisted......which makes alot look twisted...i thought the right shock was bent....like i stated it could be the angle of the picture....It looks alot better in the Stock trim......if you have a hard impact.....chances are you could have bent something else.......me personally.... i would have to look at everything back there.....but im anal about my stuff.
Yeah with the camera it's hard to hold and convey what things look like. Just twisting it around in my hands looking at it, it all looks straight from what I can see. Looking at the A-Arms all that, etc. But, I am tearing it all down this week as I have to install the BCE chassis, Elite RC motor mount, and clean out the diff's and put in fluid (getting rid fo the grease). I'll give it a real thorough once over.

Looking at how the TBR bumper mounts to the shock tower, it seems like it wouldn't apply any additional pressure over the stock one. The stock and the TBR screw in to the same spots on the bumper, but the TBR does have the plastic block which should help disperse the load more evenly across the tower. Both could probably use a little more improved design though.

I guess I'll order another CF Losi shock tower and just pony up.
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Old 01-01-2012, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG
Yeah with the camera it's hard to hold and convey what things look like. Just twisting it around in my hands looking at it, it all looks straight from what I can see. Looking at the A-Arms all that, etc. But, I am tearing it all down this week as I have to install the BCE chassis, Elite RC motor mount, and clean out the diff's and put in fluid (getting rid fo the grease). I'll give it a real thorough once over.

Looking at how the TBR bumper mounts to the shock tower, it seems like it wouldn't apply any additional pressure over the stock one. The stock and the TBR screw in to the same spots on the bumper, but the TBR does have the plastic block which should help disperse the load more evenly across the tower. Both could probably use a little more improved design though.

I guess I'll order another CF Losi shock tower and just pony up.
Well,the way the stock bumper is designed is to disperse the impact.....ie,absorb most of it without transfering energy else where.....simply that it will flex....
that bumper on there looks rigid....(idk might not be)...which would transfer most if not all the impact energy elsewhere...ie,to your towers...

with the upgrades you are doing....gonna be a HotRod!

GoodLuck!
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Old 01-01-2012, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
With the M2C pistons I like 27.5 in the front, but 22.5 was too stiff in the rear for me. I went to 20wt today and it seemed better. I'm thinking that these pistons are more temperature dependent than the stock ones. I think M2C tested them and liked 27.5wt, but they are in Utah and these came out over the summer. I need to email him and ask him what their latest setup is.

Mine fit in the shock bodies just fine. You might need to deflash the edges. Otherwise do the shafts move freely? I've been loosening the bottom cap on over the o-ring 1/8th turn every time I service the shocks.
Thanks, Chris. I found loosening the bottom cap as you did helps, but it's still too stiff, even with 20W in it. The rear doesn't return to neutral anymore from slow compression or rebound movements, which is why I'm thinking the pistons may also be binding. I'd like it to work - I've been modding my pistons the way these are made for some time, but it's a pain, so when I found these pre-made I was stoked. I'll spend some more time with it. In the meantime, please share if you find you like a different hole diameter.
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Old 01-01-2012, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by LosiMadMan
I would defiantly take the hinge pin on that left side out and check it. It still looks like it's bent on that side a little.
Will do. I have extras and will check it all when I tear it down thus week. Thx
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Old 01-01-2012, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG
Will do. I have extras and will check it all when I tear it down thus week. Thx
Don't forget to run a bead of super glue around the outside and the inside cut outs on your new shock tower. Use enought to cover the whole outside edge without getting it one the face of the shock tower. Don't put it in the screw holes though.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by dfsc10
im taking the front diff apart and putting oil in it for the first time, i cleaned all the grease out and put 5k diff fluid in it and putting it back together and when i spin the diff its gritty and dosnt feel right and when i put it in the truck when i turn the wheels it feels like its grinding 1/4 way in the turn of the wheels. ive only done the front diff so far and its done right any of you guys have this problem or is it normal?
I just redid my diff's last week and there smooth as butter.

When you take them apart to clean them. Here's how they go back together. Take the out-drivesr push them into the Diff case, place the rubber O ring over the inside shaft. and press it firmly into the case. Add the washers then the Sun Gear and make sure it goes as far onto the out-drive as possibly and sits evenly.
-When dropping the spider gears in make sure you have the shims on the the square blocks that seat in the Diff case there's 4 total, If your missing one or don't place them where they go it will make the gears in the Diff not aligned and feel gritty. Also make sure the notch in the middle of that bar where the 2 sets cross each other gets locked into place, Then push them down to seat them with the Sun gear at the bottom.

I noticed if you test them dry by hand and spin it some to check to see if it works it actually kick's up the gears and throws them out of alignment, So after u fill up the case, I rim mine out with diff fluid press the set of gears down in.

Here's where stuff could go wrong if you pick up the side of the diff with all the gears they could some how move enough to miss align so I leave that side sitting on the out-drive and take the side with the paper gasket and place it on top of the other side of the diff. Add some diff fluid to the back of the sun gear to make it stick so it doesn't fall off while trying to do this... It took me awhile to figure that little trick out...

Make sure to clean the bearings that hold the diff as well, Motor spray then Re-oil them

If you can understand what im saying your Diff's should run smooth.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:56 AM
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Default bce chassis

anyone have an inside scoop on if bill has any scte chassis in stock right now. i would like to order but i dont want to wait for a new batch.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by crazysavage
anyone have an inside scoop on if bill has any scte chassis in stock right now. i would like to order but i dont want to wait for a new batch.
I just got mine saturday (two days ago), so i would think he is all stocked up. Completely worth the wait if not
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:13 AM
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Hello guys, selling a tenshock 4600 4 pole motor.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...or-4600kv.html
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by lowroad
I just got mine saturday (two days ago), so i would think he is all stocked up. Completely worth the wait if not
This will be my forth bce chassis and if i have to wait i will not be happy.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by crazysavage
This will be my forth bce chassis and if i have to wait i will not be happy.
Well, i gess you could pm him through here or email through the website to check.? He is NITROALM on here.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:14 AM
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How are you guys attaching your ESC's in your trucks? I have 3 options Standard Servo Tape, Velcro or I also have some of that Kyosho Servo tape that's really thick and squishy.

Just looking for some opinions.

Also, I asked a few pages back and didn't get a response, but what length sensor wires are you guys running? I'm planning on having my solder posts facing the rear of the truck and my Tenshock SC411 motor doesn't come with a sensor wire so I need to pick one up.
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:11 AM
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Well today i ordered my bce chassis! When i switch out the chassis i also want to switch out the grease to oil in my diffs. Running indoor for the winter on carpet, what would be my best bet for diff oils? Also what is working the best as to gluing the diff hex inserts to prevent leaking??
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