9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
08-15-2011, 11:59 PM
08-16-2011, 12:03 AM
08-16-2011, 04:02 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
I had MC2 adapters, JUNK IMO
I have a set of the 810 axle and hubs, I'm goona install one and do some measureing.
@ MXR300,
Dont know about you but I'm 43 and have ben in this hobby nearly 30yrs, I prob forgot more about RC then you'll ever know.
I might have ben a bit of a smart azz in my post but was only stating I wished you mentioned the rims purchased were "Slash" rims rather than just rattling off the back spacing.
Whats done is done.
I have a set of the 810 axle and hubs, I'm goona install one and do some measureing.
@ MXR300,
Dont know about you but I'm 43 and have ben in this hobby nearly 30yrs, I prob forgot more about RC then you'll ever know.
I might have ben a bit of a smart azz in my post but was only stating I wished you mentioned the rims purchased were "Slash" rims rather than just rattling off the back spacing.
Whats done is done.
08-16-2011, 06:19 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
AKA Rebars to and what differences your getting over previous tire.
On indoor clay I'm using Wishbones soft & super soft, Barcodes green
depending on track conditions and the feel I'm looking for.
08-16-2011, 06:31 AM
Aaron Lane setup
Does anyone have a link to the Aaron Lane setup other than the one on the TLR site?
Thanx
Thanx
08-16-2011, 06:32 AM
So, when someone says the losi wheels are "zero offset", that means the wheels have the hexes as flush to the outside of the wheel as possible. If a wheel is offset by say, 9mm, like a slash wheel, that means the hex face has been moved towards the center of the wheel 9mm.
What you have here in this thread is a guy trying to incorrectly use correct 1:1 terminology in RC and getting everyone confused.
08-16-2011, 06:45 AM
I would try the casey peck setup from the dirt nitro challenge as that is the closest track to what you are looking for. I can tell you I tried what has become are standard starting setup which is the aaron lane setup with the rear bottom shock in the middle and the battery back at revelation and it worked well.
The diffs come filled with grease. What you put in them is usually dependant on the type of track you run on. Smoother tracks I would use either 7/5/3 or 5/5/3. Looser tracks I would get into 5/5/3 or 5/3/3. Some have gone as low as 3/3/2 but a lot of power is lost so have really good batteries for this.
The diffs come filled with grease. What you put in them is usually dependant on the type of track you run on. Smoother tracks I would use either 7/5/3 or 5/5/3. Looser tracks I would get into 5/5/3 or 5/3/3. Some have gone as low as 3/3/2 but a lot of power is lost so have really good batteries for this.
08-16-2011, 06:53 AM
08-16-2011, 06:55 AM
I love the tires so much that I'm switching my Bar Codes/Beams/Suburbs on my 2WD (rears at least) to the Rebars. I've already switched my BK Bars/Taper Pins on my buggy to them.
08-16-2011, 06:58 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
08-16-2011, 06:58 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
^^^^^^This is correct^^^^^^^
Kerby, the wheels I ordered have a 25mm backspacing. The SCTE wheels have a 34mm backspacing wich is a 9mm difference on each side. That makes it 1.8cm wider from outside to outside. Look at this picture and see if you can figure it out then let me know if you still doubt it.
Kerby, the wheels I ordered have a 25mm backspacing. The SCTE wheels have a 34mm backspacing wich is a 9mm difference on each side. That makes it 1.8cm wider from outside to outside. Look at this picture and see if you can figure it out then let me know if you still doubt it.
Like many things in RC, the terminology is different than it is in 1:1. Nobody uses the term "backspacing" in RC because wheel width is universal, everyone goes by "offset". Even at that, RC is offset from the outside of the wheel, not the centerline as in 1:1.
So, when someone says the losi wheels are "zero offset", that means the wheels have the hexes as flush to the outside of the wheel as possible. If a wheel is offset by say, 9mm, like a slash wheel, that means the hex face has been moved towards the center of the wheel 9mm.
What you have here in this thread is a guy trying to incorrectly use correct 1:1 terminology in RC and getting everyone confused.
So, when someone says the losi wheels are "zero offset", that means the wheels have the hexes as flush to the outside of the wheel as possible. If a wheel is offset by say, 9mm, like a slash wheel, that means the hex face has been moved towards the center of the wheel 9mm.
What you have here in this thread is a guy trying to incorrectly use correct 1:1 terminology in RC and getting everyone confused.
08-16-2011, 07:01 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Chuck, I was using Green Bar Codes prior to the Soft Rebars. They seem to have more forward and side bite than the bar codes, not to mention it lasts more than 2 days. They look like they're brand new after one race day, meanwhile my green bar codes showed heavy wear.
I love the tires so much that I'm switching my Bar Codes/Beams/Suburbs on my 2WD (rears at least) to the Rebars. I've already switched my BK Bars/Taper Pins on my buggy to them.
I love the tires so much that I'm switching my Bar Codes/Beams/Suburbs on my 2WD (rears at least) to the Rebars. I've already switched my BK Bars/Taper Pins on my buggy to them.
08-16-2011, 09:03 AM
Hey guys,
I was tearing my car down since my transmitter is down and in for service.
Im trying to remove the front cv driveline. I took the set screw out but it wont budge. Am i missing something to disconect?
I was tearing my car down since my transmitter is down and in for service.
Im trying to remove the front cv driveline. I took the set screw out but it wont budge. Am i missing something to disconect?
08-16-2011, 09:03 AM
Thanks for the link Chuck, but I cannot see the marked information on the sheet from the Losi site. I dont have access to a Pc right now so I am on my IPhone. When you pull up any setup sheet on the Losi site on an IPhone, the sheet shows up but the marks indicating setup do not show up.
Maybe someone has a filled out sheet they could scan and copy here.
Again, thanks for everyones help.
Maybe someone has a filled out sheet they could scan and copy here.
Again, thanks for everyones help.
08-16-2011, 09:06 AM
just wedge a flat head screwdriver between the case/bearing and the cv coupler, it will come off. i just had to do this on saturday. mine was stuck on there pretty good too.