ECHOLogic

Now instock at Superior Hobbies:
AKULA Racing Speartooth22 Graphite Chasssis Conversion for the TLR22 Buggy.

Designed to optimise the weight distribution of the TLR22 to provide more rear traction without compromising steering. The aluminium chassis has been replaced by a 2.5mm CNC machined carbon fibre chassis. This provides more flex than the standard chassis widening the setup window and increasing mid corner speed. The main layout change is that saddle packs can now be positioned across the chassis, which moves the weight distribution rearwards to provide more rear traction. The chassis has also been shortened by 5mm between the lipos and the servo to ensure that the rearward weight movement does not remove too much weight from the front axle, which could lead to understeer. Any ‘Stubby’ lipo will also fit in the chassis, filing a small tab from the side plates will allow this sized pack to fit across the chassis as far back as possible. The chassis also includes all mounting holes required to allow the car to be run in rear motor configuration.

Although the kit will not include a bodyshell, the kit shell and the FTW Vane & Blade shells will fit this chassis. The included undertray enables the kit shell to be used, although the sides of the kit shell will not reach the bottom of the chassis so the undertray may need painting to match the shell.

The kit includes;

2.5mm CNC machined carbon fibre main chassis
2.0mm CNC machined carbon fibre battery brace
3.0mm CNC machined carbon fibre side braces (will accept both saddle and stubby lipos)
1.0mm CNC machined fibre glass spacer plate (fits under rear pivot block)
4 x 25mm posts for battery brace
4 x 12mm posts for side braces
6 x 2mm aluminium spacers for front end mounting to the chassis
2 x M3 x 20mm screws
2 x M3 nyloc nuts
9 x M3 x 6mm countersunk screws
4 x M3 x 6mm button head screws
4 x M3 x 8mm button head screws
1 x aerial mount
1 x clear undertray

brad996

iTrader: (11)

I'm pretty sure he was asking what foams are your running in your tires
And in your first post I would find a set of tires that work before you go changing the chassis I would try gold bar codes in the rear first

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

Maybe try even better front tire? like proline suburbs super soft w/ trimmed stock foam? My buggy was oversteering everywhere when I use it with bar code green(super soft) in the rear.

Don't know why, but Hot bodies pink beams rear is the only tire I can found providing enough traction to pair that front. my bar code green are not providing much traction at all. (how those experts got so fast with just bar codes? traction compound?)

synap2012

iTrader: (2)

(I work in this order)
1st...Most over looked......... Check your ride height

2nd....Tires
1. try softer front compound and/or insert
2. Soften/condition the tire through tire treatments (additives and conditioners)

3rd....Absorbers
1.lighten static dampening in the front
2.stiffen static dampening in the rear

4th....camber rise and roll center
1. low cars OVERALL ride height (more overall steering)
2. lower roll center in front and/or add camber rise
3. raise roll center in rear and/or decrease camber rise

5th...odd and end's (stuff I work with that is easy to adjust)
1.mess around with upper shock location (lay front shock down)
2. wheel base (lengthen wheel base)
3.bump steer (less bump steer)

Hope this helps!

kjohnsiii

iTrader: (55)

Right, I was wondering what foam inserts he was running in the front.

I run the gold bk's in the front and rear and I like to use the PL blue foams in the rear. Then I take the white jconcepts rear white foams, trim them and stuff them into the front. They hook and the tires last a long time too.

daddyphat808

iTrader: (23)

I am just running the foams that come with the tires. No trimming just stock JConcepts white

kjohnsiii

iTrader: (55)

The way you have your front tires setup should give you better traction...

jmoneym

iTrader: (357)

How do you tell the difference between trailing and inline carriers?

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

The axle is either in-line with the center of rotation or It is behind it (trailing).

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...ndle&x=15&y=11

jmoneym

iTrader: (357)

Thanks, I think I see it the difference

Matt Ward

iTrader: (23)

Does the diff bolt go on the same side as the top shaft, like ae?

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

I put it on the driver side.

kjohnsiii

iTrader: (55)

Yes, that is how I assembled mine and it makes it easier for adjustments too.

Matt Ward

iTrader: (23)

Wouldn't that back off the bolt? The diff gear rotation is going in the opposite direction of the bolt then. Which would back it off.

Matt Ward

iTrader: (23)

Yes which side?