rc23

iTrader: (74)

Screw head opposite top shaft. Either way works and neither backs off the tightness

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

No thats what the thrust bearing does - it allows one side of the diff to spin at a different speed than the other while maintaining tension on the diff gear and not backing out.

liftmys10

iTrader: (6)

I guess I can read the entire thread (1235 pages) or if someone can easily answer which mods are needed for clay med/high grip, medium size indoor track? Also how about a setup sheet that someone can provide me with? Car is setup for mod 8.5T

Thanks!

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Tons of setups here.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/Se...TwentyTwo.html

I like this one!
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se..._OCRC20120924/

RShockley

iTrader: (7)

The diff bolt faces away from the motor plate. So when looking at the back of the car it faces left. No issues with it backing out due to diff rotation.

mysupratoy94

iTrader: (24)

When converting shocks to emulsion... are you guys allowing rebound or is a dead shock better?

synap2012

iTrader: (2)

I allow about an 1/16" to 1/8" rebound, so fairly dead.

BryantLaw

I currently have the B4.1 RTR (some mods) but I really like the looks of the TLR 22. I have been racing at my LHS for about two months (not really competetive yet). I am thinking about pruchasing the 22 and wanted to know if anyone thinks it will help me to switch or should I just keep the B4.1 and get more wheel time?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

The bolt direction only matters for access. We ran the diff the other way around on the old gas truck as it gave better access for adjustment. Function of the diff is not compromised by the direction it is put in the car.

Dead. You can't really run emulsion with rebound.

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

It wont make you any faster but it might help when you crash. The 22 is the most durable buggy out there. I say if you want one then get one. But don't expect miracles. The B4.1 is a very capable car.

Cloaked

iTrader: (15)

In all honesty at this point more wheel time will make you a better driver. As Chevmaro said the B4.1 is a very capable car, whilst I would give the 22 the NOD for durability it can be a bit of a PITA for setting up though (untill Frank Roots Standard Setup).

If I was you, I would save my cash and do the following.

1) If still using the RTR Radio, ditch that and pick up a good radio. Something like a Futaba 4PL or Sanwa/Airtronics MT4. Both are good radios and will serve you for a very long time.
2) Get more wheels and tyres, Ask around at the track see what the favourite is. Personally I like AKA Rebars for a variety of Conditions and ProLine Holeshots are considered the "standard". I also really like JConcepts Double Dee's.
3) Spare front A Arms for your car
4) Variety of Shock Oils and Springs.

Oh and read this from cover to cover

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/RC_HandbookV3-4.pdf

Eventually you will have no problem driving and if you really want a 22, get one. I did.

ChrisWolfson

iTrader: (3)

I agree with the durability of the TLR22. Can't go wrong there. Although Cloaked is giving sound advice as well. Can't really go wrong either way...

function>form

iTrader: (50)

Have a question for you 22 pros! I just switched over to the 22, have it pretty close to where I want it but need to know what I can do to stop the car from over rotating in exit. On power the rear follows the front around but wants to continue the rotation when I need it to square up! Thanks in advance

Cloaked

iTrader: (15)

Do the raised Tranny mod.

http://losiracing.blogspot.com.au/20...2-and-22t.html

My car is ridiculously easier to control coming out of corners now.

ChrisWolfson

iTrader: (3)

I'm assuming you're running 25 kickup and 5 caster blocks like most people are? If so, try running the 3 degree caster blocks and see how that feels. Should give you a little more going in and then take away some steering coming off...