1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
09-25-2012, 04:12 PM
I just purchased a 22 RTR for the indoor track at NorCal (gear diff) and would to know a good starting point for setup - I'm just here for the week and want to race on wed - any help would be great - if your here at this track, I doubt I'll be a threat 
. Tire selection would be great too, but I can ask someone there as well
Thaanks
Also is Muggydude 22 tuning guide on this forum still good or out dated?
. Tire selection would be great too, but I can ask someone there as wellThaanks
Also is Muggydude 22 tuning guide on this forum still good or out dated?
09-25-2012, 05:51 PM
09-25-2012, 08:28 PM
HEY I have a 22 with the low profile .9 savox servo n I can't get my steering to go lock to lock no matter how much I change the ratios on my remote I can't figure out why any ideas I also have a dx2s spektrum remote
09-25-2012, 08:46 PM
Just got my aluminum front and rear camber blocks and I am wondering do or should I thread lock the ball studs?
09-25-2012, 08:51 PM
What size track do you run on? I'm getting ready to try and find a good FDR for when I have to run Blinky at some tracks...
09-25-2012, 10:04 PM
that track must be gigantic!
09-25-2012, 11:23 PM
With my D3 I ran 70/34 and it ran pretty cool as well with great power. The D3.5 I've run on less tracks but I've run everything from tight indoor tracks to bigger 1/8 tracks. That motor has quite some power to it, that's also with Florida temps so usually 90+ degrees outside. It felt like beyond the 36 pinion I lost too much bottom end to justify the barley noticeable increase in top end, plus the motor running hotter. With this setup I could go to basically any track, temp the motor after 6 minutes of practice or qualifying just to see that it's staying normal, then not worry about temps again that day.
09-26-2012, 12:55 AM
Would going thicker on fluid in a gear diff be the equivalent to tightening a ball diff or is it the other way around?
09-26-2012, 06:11 AM
09-26-2012, 07:28 AM
69 is a kimbrough gear but you have to use ae slipper pads.
09-26-2012, 07:37 AM
As for the ref request, I actually understand I am not qualified
09-26-2012, 08:23 AM
I finally wrote down my 22 setup. This has been working well for me at the past few tracks I have been to.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...924/index.html
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...924/index.html
09-26-2012, 08:43 AM
Battery tray is in the "middle" holes of the chassis. I use the option 10mm forward holes in the alum tray and the battery is all the way forward in that.
This moves the battery a little further forward the what is available with stock and is similar to the old setups with battery tray in the forward holes and one foam up one down position. The alum tray with mounted in the optional holes also give enough clearance to get the battery in and out of the car!
09-26-2012, 10:29 AM
I hate describing battery placement in these cars!
Battery tray is in the "middle" holes of the chassis. I use the option 10mm forward holes in the alum tray and the battery is all the way forward in that.
This moves the battery a little further forward the what is available with stock and is similar to the old setups with battery tray in the forward holes and one foam up one down position. The alum tray with mounted in the optional holes also give enough clearance to get the battery in and out of the car!
Battery tray is in the "middle" holes of the chassis. I use the option 10mm forward holes in the alum tray and the battery is all the way forward in that.
This moves the battery a little further forward the what is available with stock and is similar to the old setups with battery tray in the forward holes and one foam up one down position. The alum tray with mounted in the optional holes also give enough clearance to get the battery in and out of the car!
09-26-2012, 10:38 AM