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6/3 for sure. Look at the new B44.2 manual, they finally updated to reflect 6/3. It's the same gears and gearboxes as the .1
They just never updated the .1 manual for whatever reason. |
Need some help.
I'm Running indoor hard pack clay that’s kind of bumpy and the car seems bouncy I’m currently running green spring all around with 40 weight oil in the front and 35 on the rear any suggestions Thanks in advance |
Assuming you are running the 10mm non bigbore shocks. Your car is bouncing around cause you have too thick of oil, causing your shocks to not absorb good enough. The standard kit setup should work quite well on most tracks. 35 oil front with AE silver springs, 30 oil back with green springs. Ride height 21mm front, 20mm rear.
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New to 4x4 buggy I have a tekin 7.5 or 4.5 motor. What would be better and gearing starting point on both. Thanks.
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The 7.5 will be plenty for now. Assuming you're on the stock 81 spur size, you could absolutely start with a 19 pinion and be safe. Still check motor temp after 5 minutes. I run a 6.5 and like 20/81 for now. Reedy motor, and it comes off at ~145 after 10-15 minute runs. Bulldog body has good front cooling vents.
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The spurs are the same as on the b4.1 right?
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Originally Posted by rc-racer75
(Post 11421833)
The spurs are the same as on the b4.1 right?
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Ok thanks guys appreciate the help!!! Got a JConcepts silent speed 81 ready to go in it. Will start at 20/81 and go from there testing the temps up and down teeth on the pinion.
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Originally Posted by rigor
(Post 11388840)
6/3 for sure. Look at the new B44.2 manual, they finally updated to reflect 6/3. It's the same gears and gearboxes as the .1
They just never updated the .1 manual for whatever reason. Thanks. |
Originally Posted by vicdamone11
(Post 11422209)
Going to try this shimming set up for sure. Ive been stripping gears like its my job. 3 gears, in 2 race days. I was running 2/4 the whole time...oops. It was always fine till I starting putting more motor in.
Thanks. |
I don't even bother with the manual, I just shim it tight. I rebuilt my front yesterday, and believe I ended up with 0/6. Night tight mesh, and no issues on the track. The rear used to give me problems, but now I shim it tight and they last for months.
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Nice if that works for you, but I would still put out there that folks need to be aware of the shimming on each side of the outdrives so that the correct mesh distance is between the diff & drive pinion gears. It's not only about the side to side play within the transmission housing.
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Well, what is the appropriate mesh distance, and how do you arrive at it?
I always found that I'd strip out the rear gears when attempting to follow the manual's recommendation. The general concensus has been to shim at least 1 shim (usually 2) shims tighter
Originally Posted by rigor
(Post 11423078)
...It's not only about the side to side play within the transmission housing.
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The new 44.2 manual is a good starting spot, 6 on the diff gear side, 3 on the longer outdrive. Sometimes 6/4 is needed. Even if it feels slightly tight, it'll break in.
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What mm nut driver do I need for the upper shock mount nuts?
Also what size are the wheel nuts? I need to buy nut drivers to fit these and don't know the size. |
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