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-   Electric Off-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road-4/)
-   -   B44.1 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/441523-b44-1-thread.html)

-WHEELMAN- 10-23-2012 12:37 AM


Originally Posted by johnbugman (Post 11349620)
You obviously did not understand what i told him. I happen to frequent most of the tracks here in the bay area/ space coast. None of the tracks here have longer straights at the most being 100 ft or so with space coast rc being a exception and 18t would be plenty of gear to start. then dialing in up or down a gear like I said to start. motor temps and all that will fall in line with fast laps. Or are you more concerned with motor temps than fast lap times?? Gimme a break too I don't appreciate the insults. You can make a point without being insulting.

You should explain yourself better instead of misleading the guy and making it sound like myself and others have no idea what we are talking about when you are that guy not explaining yourself.

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 11349970)
:(:(:(

Cheer up cry baby!! Haha!!! Hey your a guy that should know this! Does the VST slipper for the 4x short bus fit on the B44.1? If so why is there a new motor mount and the spacing of the center slipper assembly mounts different on the B44.2?

Nitromad67 10-23-2012 04:55 AM

G'day guys,

I'm a newbie to electric r/c, all my cars are nitro.
I just picked up a 3/4 finished b44.1 from a mate for $250, it has a Monster D3 6.5 turn motor, XP 1015 digital servo and Team Orion 5500mAh lipo batteries.

Just need a bit of advice as to what ESC and radio would be best to run it?

I dont race them, i'm just a bushbasher.....

Any help would be appreciated.

UN4RACING 10-23-2012 05:17 AM


Originally Posted by Nitromad67 (Post 11357736)
G'day guys,

I'm a newbie to electric r/c, all my cars are nitro.
I just picked up a 3/4 finished b44.1 from a mate for $250, it has a Monster D3 6.5 turn motor, XP 1015 digital servo and Team Orion 5500mAh lipo batteries.

Just need a bit of advice as to what ESC and radio would be best to run it?

I dont race them, i'm just a bushbasher.....

Any help would be appreciated.

I would recommend a good ole GT2.0 Speed passion. Or any of the low priced ESC's they work great and hold up great. But I have ran the GT2.0 The price is perfect for racing and the best price for bashing. Toughest ESC I have tried. Its the Timex of ESC's IMO.
http://www.speedpassion.net/shop/det...802LPFcb&c=ESC

johnbugman 10-30-2012 06:14 AM

Fan
 
Can anyone recommend a good 25x25 esc fan for my orion r10 pro esc? The stock fans keep breaking even with fins clipped and a fan cover.

t0p_sh0tta 10-30-2012 06:52 AM

I like the Much More Ultra high RPM fans. They move a lot of air, and held up to about 6 months in a durango, and 3 months in a 4x4 SC before quitting on me.

Do you need a fan though? My ESC doesn't get over 140 or so in my 44. Do you have cutouts in your body?

racer1812 10-30-2012 08:14 AM

been said many times before but the 6/3 shimming of the diffs is SO much better.

I didn't have any extras when I built my kit so I went 5/1 to tighten the mesh a little.

Shimmed now with 6/3 not only is the mesh and side to side play better but it's also noticeably quieter.

johnbugman 10-30-2012 08:59 AM

Pretty

Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta (Post 11384671)
I like the Much More Ultra high RPM fans. They move a lot of air, and held up to about 6 months in a durango, and 3 months in a 4x4 SC before quitting on me.

Do you need a fan though? My ESC doesn't get over 140 or so in my 44. Do you have cutouts in your body?

ya it gets pretty hot here in Florida and I will try and cut some vents first and see what that gets me. Thanks for the recommendations

t0p_sh0tta 10-30-2012 09:13 AM

What body are you running? I run a PL bulldog with the side vents, and front vent (under windshield) cut out. The PL already has a wide opening in the rear that really helps the air escape.

johnbugman 10-30-2012 11:33 AM


Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta (Post 11385208)
What body are you running? I run a PL bulldog with the side vents, and front vent (under windshield) cut out. The PL already has a wide opening in the rear that really helps the air escape.

I'm running 2012 bulldog. But I haven't cut any vents out.

johnbugman 10-30-2012 11:36 AM


Originally Posted by racer1812 (Post 11384954)
been said many times before but the 6/3 shimming of the diffs is SO much better.

I didn't have any extras when I built my kit so I went 5/1 to tighten the mesh a little.

Shimmed now with 6/3 not only is the mesh and side to side play better but it's also noticeably quieter.

agreed I'm surprised the build manual hasn't been updated to those specs. I've used the same gears for a while now with very little wear.

dMITIj 10-31-2012 01:01 AM

Hello all.

how often do you guys rebuild/maintain the drivetrain, im new to this "ball-diff"/slipper system.

Best Regards.

UN4RACING 10-31-2012 04:05 AM


Originally Posted by dMITIj (Post 11388176)
Hello all.

how often do you guys rebuild/maintain the drivetrain, im new to this "ball-diff"/slipper system.

Best Regards.

Its a bit of a task to do them, so I do mine when they start getting gritty to the point it feels like its catching. Never really had a regiment plan for rebuilding them. If I did it would be once a month.

dMITIj 10-31-2012 04:12 AM


Originally Posted by UN4RACING (Post 11388379)
Its a bit of a task to do them, so I do mine when they start getting gritty to the point it feels like its catching. Never really had a regiment plan for rebuilding them. If I did it would be once a month.

okay, thanks for the info :)

t0p_sh0tta 10-31-2012 05:30 AM

A full diff rebuild can take a while due to diff break-in.

I usually just clean, and rebuild, which can be done in 15 min or so once you get a feel for it. I don't mess with the slipper often, I'll check the pads ever 3-4 clean & lubes.

nmdesertracer 10-31-2012 05:40 AM

My manual only shows 6 diff shims total 4/2. so 6/3 is a lot better?


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