I appreciate the link. I didn't have that one. I just know most guys will mix it in a paper cup after adding close to the right amounts and then pour it into the shocks. If I mix it I go by weight on a digital scale so I can replicate it if I like it. The problem with weights is they very between manufacture. The difference between Losi and AE is a good example.:D

I hear you on the different manufacture front...I like to use this:
http://www.twf8.ws/php/tip/shock.html

So I assembled my Diffs for the 44.1.

I build it using Ceramic balls from Acer in both thrust and Diff. I have built B4 diffs, and it seems much smoother. This one feels gritty. Its not smooth, I used a fair amount of Diff lube, but it still doesn't feel right.

I've used steel balls in the past, this is the first time using ceramic, so I have nothing to compare it to.


Also, where is everyone setting the tightness of the thrust nut in the diff?



MOmo

I am new to r/c and I just bought a 44.1 and the hobby shop I bought the kit off sold me a team Orion 4 pole motor 4100kv it's a neon 14bl motor reading back through your posts I see this motor is not suitable for the car am I understanding this right?

you don't want a 4 pole

i have ceramic in mine but i don't have them in the thrust.did you sand all the rings mine are smooth.i set mine about a HR tighter then stock

I would take it apart and start over. It should be smooth no matter what balls if its new. Clean it real well and flip the ring. Don't sand the ring though.
I pretty much set my front diff close to factory and the rear just slightly looser.
Break the diff rings in real slow.

Yes, you're understanding this right. Since you're new, you probably want a 13.5 or 10.5, both of which are probably more speed/power than you can handle with this vehicle...

You'll learn soon that in this hobby, particularly some hobby shops that don't run a track on site, folks just aren't properly informed. That is not a suitable motor for this car. Also, I hate to pile it on you, but a 4WD buggy is going to be tougher to setup, more moving parts and maintenance to worry about, and more fragile as well, compared to a 2WD buggy. If you're new to the hobby and are going to be running on actual tracks setup for racing, I'd get a 13.5 brushless motor, and dial it's max power back to like 80% to start off with. Great car though, and great fun. Best of luck! Take your time, and have patience :)

I have just built my B44.1 as my first kit.
The car is a blast to work on and drive. I would highly recommend the tbone bumpers while you are learning to drive-they have saved my arms, shocks and axles.

t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/Associated/B44-c34/

Not the sleekest look but they do a great job.
Also- be sure to read through most of this thread. It will take a while but there is a lot of good advice for build, setup, and compatible electronics.

Thanks to all who contribute

I am curious what the advantages are to big bore shocks. They look kick ass, but is there a large performance upgrade?

Just a crazy stupid question but It's on my mind so I'll ask...LOL

Around are are 4wd is pretty slow.

Has anyone ever removed the front axles on a B44.1 and mounted some 2wd buggy fronts and raced it in the 2wd buggy class? The B44.1 still probaly weighs less the the Losi 22 ;)

Yep crazy question....:D

I have seen a Kyosho 4wd buggy turned into a 2wd buggy. It was on some European site maybe area 52 news.

Things I highly recommend:
- Follow directions in this thread for proper diff building and shimming, since the documentation is not correct and outdrives/cases vary.
- Shim to remove slop around bearings.
- If you're using a decent servo (which you really should be - metal gears, fast, high torque, etc), tighten the servo saver more (between .5mm and locked) to get better steering.
- If you run on a high-bite track, try the reversed steering rack mentioned in some setup sheets.
- PTFE tape on the portion of the screws going through steering bushings, and around the bushings themselves (6, total). Removes slop and slows wear.
- Aim for 10-15 degrees inboard on the servo horn, rather than 5-10. This keeps it from hitting your body.
- Rear chassis weight.
- Buy a set of front shocks. Build them and fill one with your usual shock oil. Keep them in your kit in case you break or bend a shock shaft.
- The usual spares: Front Arms, front shock shafts, shock ends, and shock caps.

You might also want to try my "bulletproofing" modifications...
- If you can get a B44 front tower, put it behind the B44.1 tower. You will need longer screws to do this. The bottom screws should be button head, the rest socket head. This should make it essentially impossible to break your front shock tower or end up with a screw you cannot remove. You'll need to trim some of the middle reinforcement from the bumper for this to fit.
- Replace the plastic front shock tower mount with the aluminum version. Transfers more energy from a crash into the front top plate, rather than the weaker plastic front bulkhead.
- Double the rear shock towers. You will need longer screws. Same reason as the front tower doubling, only this one is actually more fragile than the front.
- Use Long RPM ball cups. You'll need to tighten them past where you expect to set them, then back out to the right length. If you don't, they'll pop when you try to adjust them. Yes, this sucks, but they keep your turnbuckles from bending at their weakest point.
- Put button-head screws through all four empty holes on the shock towers (thread into small 4-40 nuts). This will keep the tips of the towers from splintering as quickly/easily.

I didn't like the way the rear mounted, but the front is pretty cool looking. Sadly, it didn't protect the arms or shock shafts and seemed to cause the front diff case to strip and break (the bumper transfers more energy from the impact into the weak diff case standoffs). The bumpers are exceptionally tough, though, no denying that.

I've never seen it and couldn't see it working very well. It'd push like crazy no matter what you did to lighten the front. I suspect the front caster block wouldn't be a simple direct-bolt-on to the arms, nor would it have enough angle...

slipper mod
 

so I put in the garolite pads from an old sc10 4x4 spur and man what a difference!!! I barely had the thing tight and i got great slipp in the first 25% of full power then baaam it stuck like a bullet down the straight! It produced good front to rear power transfer as needed. I highly recommend the marcus rc shox garolite pads in exchange for ae pads. plus these thing things dont have any heat fade and last a lifetime!!