With timing too?

i would try a 18 first then add timing if the temps are low enough and go from there

anyone had any issues with front dogbone in the outdrive?

mine are sitting right on the edge and I'm not comfortable from previous experience running them so close to the edge. they pop out easily.

I have had issues on the rear of the B44 in the past but have addressed it with shifting the axle shims from outside hub to inside of hub.

Just built my B44.1 and have the same concern. The 1 shim on the inside and 3 on the outside make it seem like the CVDs are going to pop right now. I am going to try 2 and 2

mine is so marginal I dont even think changing the shim would give me enough cvd in the outdrive. let me know how you go

How many downtravel limiters are you running in your shocks? If you don't have enough, or any for that matter, that would be the cause of them popping out.

So, a couple things...

How many of you sealed your carbon fiber chassis? (either on 44.1 or even your 44?) I've been reading in a lot of places it's highly recommended. A couple different ways but what I've commonly read was:

wet sand with 800 grit wet and dry (quickly against the grain first and longer with the grain), color edge with black sharpie (looks cool if you ask me), and seal it with medium CA glue (put a drop and let it run down the length of the chassis, add more as needed.)

I'm probably going to do this today being that I have a snow day... only thing that sucks is I have to tear everything down on my brand new kit that hasn't even had electronics in it...

The other thing was shimming the diff gears. A team driver told me last weekend that when the kit is brand new, shim the gears "almost too tight" so after about a pack the gears break themselves in to perfect instead of having slop after a short while. The kit didn't come with any extra shims, anyone know what size and where I can find them?

This is gonna sound crazy compared to the "manual" shimming...BUT I have rebuilt the diffs 3 or 4 times in the past 4 months and the gears look TOTALLY new every time running a 7.5 with a tight slipper and run hard.
I have 8 shims and 4 shims on the front diff, and 9 and 3 on the rear. Their is no slop in the gear case and VERY little play if any between the gears, but they are NOT tight. Criticize me if you want but that's what's been working...flawlessly.

You don't need more shims, you simply adjust how many are on each side in order to move the gears closer or farther apart.

I originally shimmed mine as per the instructions, but it caused some binding to where the diff wouldn't spin freely w/o the drive shaft gear installed. I moved the shims around until the diff spun free and the mesh was tight. It has been great ever since. The majority opinion is to shim them tight when you build it and let the gear wear in. I think it is good advice, but as with everything, make sure it is working for you.

Im looking to get a B44.1 what's a good motor/esc combo to get

I'm going with LRP v2 and probably x12 8.5 motor or Ballistic 8.5 or one of the other motors I've been reading about. I can't decide what motor I want just yet.

Awesome thanks man, going to seal the chassis first then work getting the gears shimmed correctly...

same here as far as shimming goes. I got the rear tightend nearly all the way and shimmed so theres no play between the gears. For the front, the diff isnt tightend quite as much as the rear but still tight with 6 shims.

Running a 5.5 on high traction carpet

Which battery are you guys running? Couple guys at the track run Trakpower I think. How does the reedy one fare? This is my first 4wd, pretty new to this game.

I have pro-match 38C 4200 packs and like them very much. They are going on their 2nd year and holding very strong. I have yet to see a decline in performance. Unlike my driving!

I started running the reedy 60C and it seems like I lost a little power overall which doesnt make any sense to me coming from an Orion 45C? I was convinced the reedy would be much better

My gearing is stock spur with a 19 pinion & Novak kinetic/ballistic 13.5 timing at 7 and timing set point at 7 so maybe it's just to high.