RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Thanks for the info... I think I may hold off on it and focus on some other things for now. Ive always been a sc guy so I need some guidence on buggy setup, please bear with me haha:
- What spacer(s) should I be using for a spectrum servo? Im not running any right now, but im not sure if that is right.
- At the track I ran at, the owners wife was taking pics and in all the pics my buggies front end is dipping down in the turns and on the jumps, is that supposed to do that?
- My buggy was pushing extremely bad through the turns, would the above issues cause that? Ill attatch a few pics to show what im talking about.
Current setup is 30wt front, 25wt rear with the pistons in the assembly bag (not the ones on the parts tree), 0* front toe, 2* camber front
- What spacer(s) should I be using for a spectrum servo? Im not running any right now, but im not sure if that is right.
- At the track I ran at, the owners wife was taking pics and in all the pics my buggies front end is dipping down in the turns and on the jumps, is that supposed to do that?
- My buggy was pushing extremely bad through the turns, would the above issues cause that? Ill attatch a few pics to show what im talking about.
Current setup is 30wt front, 25wt rear with the pistons in the assembly bag (not the ones on the parts tree), 0* front toe, 2* camber front
whats everyone running for rear toe at the t plate ? iam 3.0 with 2 kick and .5 at the hub >>> whats everyone else running i have some 0 hubs i was thinking of trying
and i did the losi spring setup car feels so planted now i was to see if i can increase corner speed !!
and i did the losi spring setup car feels so planted now i was to see if i can increase corner speed !!
try o degree hubs.
I've got 3.5 at the back with 0 hubs and 2 degrees antisquat. Medium/high bite, very tight, very technical, indoor, dirt track.
Racers Edge hubs are aluminum, this process only works on titanium. Aluminum anodizing is a completely different process.
check ur bearings in the case also they might have gone bad and could be causing wobble... what spur gear did u replace it with.. iveheard many say replace it with the kimbro or the new jc spurs are amazing.. Correct me if im wrong but i believe kimbro makes the spurs for ae but theres dont wobble...
Def check your motor plates regularly and topshafts... i think it was cav who told me if he is racing on a track thatis a "1/8th" style track he uses the non milled plated for that extra strength.. Also when u tighten the motor screws theres no need to torque them till u hand turns reds that also can make the plate tweek easyier...
Def check your motor plates regularly and topshafts... i think it was cav who told me if he is racing on a track thatis a "1/8th" style track he uses the non milled plated for that extra strength.. Also when u tighten the motor screws theres no need to torque them till u hand turns reds that also can make the plate tweek easyier...
Any of you ever had a problem keeping your spur gear from wobbling? I installed new gear, new slipper and pads, new bearings inside of case, new spring and washer and nut. No luck. I did not change the top shaft, but I just really don’t think it could be bent. To be honest I don’t think the spring sits square on the slipper plates. Almost as if un even pressure is being applied to the slipper. Any thoughts?
Hi there has anyone else tried the the ghea pistons? Did you consider tapered? What would make a B4/B4.1 owner choose tapered or flat? Tapered for rougher tracks/smooth for flater tracks?
Someone even suggested that taper could point down giving quicker rebound allowing a lower spring rate. Benefits??
Has anyone found that there lap times inproved as they went from a B4 to B4.1 either converted or just a new kit. Is the B4.1 faster all personal set ups considered. I do understand that the +8 chassis can help with this.
Please excuse the learner Q's. Thanks for any thoughts.
Someone even suggested that taper could point down giving quicker rebound allowing a lower spring rate. Benefits??
Has anyone found that there lap times inproved as they went from a B4 to B4.1 either converted or just a new kit. Is the B4.1 faster all personal set ups considered. I do understand that the +8 chassis can help with this.
Please excuse the learner Q's. Thanks for any thoughts.
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From: Ray, Mi
They are M3 or 3mm screws. I always use washers. Some even use the countersunk washers like the front top plate.
The anti-squat is adjusted by little shims that slip under the inside hinge pin rear toe in bracket. The thicker the shim the more antisquat. The A, B and C hub carrier blocks alter the position of the outside rear camber link. The A and B I believe are the same height but alter the position in relation to each other horizontally. The carbon fiber C bracket actually lowers the link mount location.
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Posts: 411
From: Mesa, AZ
Hi there has anyone else tried the the ghea pistons? Did you consider tapered? What would make a B4/B4.1 owner choose tapered or flat? Tapered for rougher tracks/smooth for flater tracks?
Someone even suggested that taper could point down giving quicker rebound allowing a lower spring rate. Benefits??
Has anyone found that there lap times inproved as they went from a B4 to B4.1 either converted or just a new kit. Is the B4.1 faster all personal set ups considered. I do understand that the +8 chassis can help with this.
Please excuse the learner Q's. Thanks for any thoughts.
Someone even suggested that taper could point down giving quicker rebound allowing a lower spring rate. Benefits??
Has anyone found that there lap times inproved as they went from a B4 to B4.1 either converted or just a new kit. Is the B4.1 faster all personal set ups considered. I do understand that the +8 chassis can help with this.
Please excuse the learner Q's. Thanks for any thoughts.




think im going to try tonight 