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Old 02-06-2012 | 05:08 PM
  #10996  
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Originally Posted by faze
Thanks for the info... I think I may hold off on it and focus on some other things for now. Ive always been a sc guy so I need some guidence on buggy setup, please bear with me haha:

- What spacer(s) should I be using for a spectrum servo? Im not running any right now, but im not sure if that is right.

- At the track I ran at, the owners wife was taking pics and in all the pics my buggies front end is dipping down in the turns and on the jumps, is that supposed to do that?

- My buggy was pushing extremely bad through the turns, would the above issues cause that? Ill attatch a few pics to show what im talking about.

Current setup is 30wt front, 25wt rear with the pistons in the assembly bag (not the ones on the parts tree), 0* front toe, 2* camber front
Try adding another bump steer washer. Should give you more steering. Try either putting stiffer shock oil in or highering you ride height and try running -1 camber all around.
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Old 02-06-2012 | 05:36 PM
  #10997  
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Originally Posted by bilster44
Are you sure you don't have the oils backwards on that?
maybe it is what works at his track? I have heard lighter weight in the front for bumpy tracks.
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Old 02-06-2012 | 05:54 PM
  #10998  
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Default REAR TOE dealy lol

whats everyone running for rear toe at the t plate ? iam 3.0 with 2 kick and .5 at the hub >>> whats everyone else running i have some 0 hubs i was thinking of trying

and i did the losi spring setup car feels so planted now i was to see if i can increase corner speed !!
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Old 02-06-2012 | 06:03 PM
  #10999  
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Originally Posted by mxer373
whats everyone running for rear toe at the t plate ? iam 3.0 with 2 kick and .5 at the hub >>> whats everyone else running i have some 0 hubs i was thinking of trying

and i did the losi spring setup car feels so planted now i was to see if i can increase corner speed !!
try o degree hubs.
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Old 02-06-2012 | 06:07 PM
  #11000  
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Originally Posted by mxer373
whats everyone running for rear toe at the t plate ? iam 3.0 with 2 kick and .5 at the hub >>> whats everyone else running i have some 0 hubs i was thinking of trying

and i did the losi spring setup car feels so planted now i was to see if i can increase corner speed !!
I've got 3.5 at the back with 0 hubs and 2 degrees antisquat. Medium/high bite, very tight, very technical, indoor, dirt track.
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Old 02-06-2012 | 06:20 PM
  #11001  
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Originally Posted by Jake S
so eight 9v is gold (72 volts)

has anyone tried to do a "darker" blue then the stock because every chart i see is ~54v (six 9v) for a light blue, or ~108v (twelve v9) for a darker blue.

mostly want to try to get my racers edge hubs blue think im going to try tonight
Racers Edge hubs are aluminum, this process only works on titanium. Aluminum anodizing is a completely different process.
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Old 02-06-2012 | 06:26 PM
  #11002  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Racers Edge hubs are aluminum, this process only works on titanium. Aluminum anodizing is a completely different process.
yeah just saw that they where aluminum on their site LOL
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Old 02-06-2012 | 06:34 PM
  #11003  
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check ur bearings in the case also they might have gone bad and could be causing wobble... what spur gear did u replace it with.. iveheard many say replace it with the kimbro or the new jc spurs are amazing.. Correct me if im wrong but i believe kimbro makes the spurs for ae but theres dont wobble...
Def check your motor plates regularly and topshafts... i think it was cav who told me if he is racing on a track thatis a "1/8th" style track he uses the non milled plated for that extra strength.. Also when u tighten the motor screws theres no need to torque them till u hand turns reds that also can make the plate tweek easyier...





Originally Posted by F18engineguy
Any of you ever had a problem keeping your spur gear from wobbling? I installed new gear, new slipper and pads, new bearings inside of case, new spring and washer and nut. No luck. I did not change the top shaft, but I just really don’t think it could be bent. To be honest I don’t think the spring sits square on the slipper plates. Almost as if un even pressure is being applied to the slipper. Any thoughts?
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Old 02-06-2012 | 06:36 PM
  #11004  
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Originally Posted by bds81175
I've got 3.5 at the back with 0 hubs and 2 degrees antisquat. Medium/high bite, very tight, very technical, indoor, dirt track.
how do you adjust anti-squat? also what is the "b" and "c" plates while i am asking noob questions.

thanks
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Old 02-06-2012 | 06:53 PM
  #11005  
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Hey guys I need some help. What is the size of the motor mount scews. The two that actually mount to the motor itself and do they requir washers? Thanks for the help
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Old 02-06-2012 | 06:58 PM
  #11006  
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Hi there has anyone else tried the the ghea pistons? Did you consider tapered? What would make a B4/B4.1 owner choose tapered or flat? Tapered for rougher tracks/smooth for flater tracks?

Someone even suggested that taper could point down giving quicker rebound allowing a lower spring rate. Benefits??

Has anyone found that there lap times inproved as they went from a B4 to B4.1 either converted or just a new kit. Is the B4.1 faster all personal set ups considered. I do understand that the +8 chassis can help with this.

Please excuse the learner Q's. Thanks for any thoughts.
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Old 02-06-2012 | 07:17 PM
  #11007  
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Originally Posted by Rick1000
Hey guys I need some help. What is the size of the motor mount scews. The two that actually mount to the motor itself and do they requir washers? Thanks for the help
They are M3 or 3mm screws. I always use washers. Some even use the countersunk washers like the front top plate.
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Old 02-06-2012 | 07:25 PM
  #11008  
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Originally Posted by flippz
how do you adjust anti-squat? also what is the "b" and "c" plates while i am asking noob questions.

thanks
anti squat is right under the toe block...which is right behind the battery strap compartment
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Old 02-06-2012 | 07:30 PM
  #11009  
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Originally Posted by flippz
how do you adjust anti-squat? also what is the "b" and "c" plates while i am asking noob questions.

thanks
You can't be a noob, you have more posts than I do!! The anti-squat is adjusted by little shims that slip under the inside hinge pin rear toe in bracket. The thicker the shim the more antisquat. The A, B and C hub carrier blocks alter the position of the outside rear camber link. The A and B I believe are the same height but alter the position in relation to each other horizontally. The carbon fiber C bracket actually lowers the link mount location.
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Old 02-06-2012 | 07:37 PM
  #11010  
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Originally Posted by daverobbo5
Hi there has anyone else tried the the ghea pistons? Did you consider tapered? What would make a B4/B4.1 owner choose tapered or flat? Tapered for rougher tracks/smooth for flater tracks?

Someone even suggested that taper could point down giving quicker rebound allowing a lower spring rate. Benefits??

Has anyone found that there lap times inproved as they went from a B4 to B4.1 either converted or just a new kit. Is the B4.1 faster all personal set ups considered. I do understand that the +8 chassis can help with this.

Please excuse the learner Q's. Thanks for any thoughts.
I did try the GHEA #2 tapered pistons. Our track has a woop section and I could not get my suspension/ driving style adjusted to it do I tried these pistons in the rear and they made the car handle much better in that section but did not sacrifice handling in any other section. I am definately a fan of these pistons
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