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Old 12-11-2011, 04:14 PM
  #8401  
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Originally Posted by bds81175
If you want to raise the roll center, you need to drop the inside camber link mounting location (ie. remove washers). I know, it's counter-intuitive but that's the way it works. Raising and lowering roll centers on the B4 is easy so I would say just give it a shot. You won't even need to adjust the camber length. Just pop the rod end off, move the stud up or down, and pop the rod end back on. For your own sanity, try moving in both directions and see how it feels when you are driving it. That's the best way to test these things anyways. Report back when you find out. It would be awesome to have some of these links verified. I need to do something similar with mine. I actually have a problem getting the back end to hook up coming out of hairpins. I think I rotate a little too easily.

Little update.

I removed 1 washer per test drive in the front till I had zero washer under the ball studs. It felt a little better coming out of the corner

I added 1 washer at a time in the rear. I am currently sitting at 3 washers in the rear. which after the U-brace shaving. puts me 1 over the stock height.
I am zero in the front.

It is getting a little better coming out of the corner but I am noticing it steers less going into the corner. I am going to try to add one more to the rear and see how it feels than either go back to 3 or stay at 4 and start adding to the front. I think I need to try different front tires though. Clay compound suck on the pavement . going to retest al this wed night at the track. One corner always gets me there
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:29 PM
  #8402  
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more caster can help if your using 25*
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:33 PM
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What exactly do you shave when shaving the U Brace on the b4.1?
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by hitordie010
What exactly do you shave when shaving the U Brace on the b4.1?
Folks take the pad that the ball studs thread into down flush with the rest of the U brace.
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jerz616
...It seems like you have to be one of the regulars for anyone to help you.

...Don't understand why everything has to be a "secret".

It seems like you have to be one of the regulars for anyone to help you
I have been a racer at Mikes for the last 6 years and never had an experience like this. Most people are helpful. The guys in the shop are also helpful. Mike's even has a forum you can post in to ask for help. Posting trash talk here seems a little low class.

What secrets do you think they are keeping? Buggy is the most competitive class at Mikes and usually has the top drivers. Sometimes they look fast because they are amazing drivers.

If you are serious about wanting help, post on mike's forum.
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by hitordie010
What exactly do you shave when shaving the U Brace on the b4.1?
I asked this earlier, go back a couple pages and you will see the details. Basically when you use the C hub it lowers the ball stud roughly .060, so if you look at the U hub, where you put the ball stud in, that lip that is raised up is .060. remove it and you keep your inner and outer pivot points the same.

If you choose not to use the C hub and go with the A or B, then just add 2 washers to compensate (on a shaved U Hub)
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:34 PM
  #8407  
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE
more caster can help if your using 25*
+1 Caster changes are a bit more aggressive than the single washer changes to the ball stud mounts from what I have experienced. Might still take a bit of tweaking after switching the caster blocks.
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:38 PM
  #8408  
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Hello,

What all parts are needed to do a hex conversion on the B4.1?

Thanks
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by skrichter
I don't quite understand how Cav is using a spring rate which is completely off from what is noted above.
White KYO front BB - 3.72 spring rate vs. AE Brown 2.80 lb springs
Gold KYO rear BB - 2.50 spring rate vs. AE Green 1.90 lb.

Has anyone tested the spring rates of the BB vs. standard to see if its a 1:1?
I have been using standard Kyosho springs and just started using Losi Big Bore springs and then maybe eventually try the Kyosho big bore springs. As for Cavs setup he is using White Kyosho springs which have are advertised as 3.72 but really measures 3.22. The Gold Kyoshos are advertised as 2.5 but measure at 2.14. (This chart is helpful: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggyBigBoreSpring.pdf ). The fronts may seem really stiff but that means that he is most likely running inside on both the tower and the arm. Going in on the arm requires a stiffer spring and fwiw more limiters.

I use to run standard Kyosho orange up front and dark yellow in the rears. I switched to Losi BB Orange up front and Losi BB Yellow in the rear. The rears are dialed. The front's feel a little too stiff especially for the slightly bumpy tracks I race on. Also the front springs may be a tad too long. My adjustment collar is all the way to the top and I am right at 24mm. I hope this info helps.
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:30 PM
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okay i guess ill ask again,

are the brown front ae springs the closet in rate to the losi orange. The ae browns say 2.80 and the losi orange say 2.90. Are these a direct comparison or do the different companies use different ways of testing the rate.
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Ultra7M
I have been using standard Kyosho springs and just started using Losi Big Bore springs and then maybe eventually try the Kyosho big bore springs. As for Cavs setup he is using White Kyosho springs which have are advertised as 3.72 but really measures 3.22. The Gold Kyoshos are advertised as 2.5 but measure at 2.14. (This chart is helpful: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggyBigBoreSpring.pdf ). The fronts may seem really stiff but that means that he is most likely running inside on both the tower and the arm. Going in on the arm requires a stiffer spring and fwiw more limiters.

I use to run standard Kyosho orange up front and dark yellow in the rears. I switched to Losi BB Orange up front and Losi BB Yellow in the rear. The rears are dialed. The front's feel a little too stiff especially for the slightly bumpy tracks I race on. Also the front springs may be a tad too long. My adjustment collar is all the way to the top and I am right at 24mm. I hope this info helps.
I like that chart myself, but totally missed the actual rates. I can confirm he wasn't inside/inside (as I saw them up close at the race). But the track we ran on was high grip and required a stiffer spring, so it makes sense.

I think I will stick with the Losi BB springs as they appear to match their advertised spring rate and are a ton cheaper (unless someone can confirm the kyo springs are more dialed).

Thx!
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by gdbracing
okay i guess ill ask again,

are the brown front ae springs the closet in rate to the losi orange. The ae browns say 2.80 and the losi orange say 2.90. Are these a direct comparison or do the different companies use different ways of testing the rate.
Yes the Losi orange is closest to the AE brown. In my previous post I said I was running non-BB Kyosho orange which has a 2.78 spring rate. The Losi BB orange are definitely stiffer. I may try the Losi reds which are said to be a 2.6 spring rate and those may "feel" closer to the AE brown or Kyosho orange.
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:58 PM
  #8413  
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thanks, i think i will buy both orange and red
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:06 PM
  #8414  
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Interesting. I remember reading that for losi BB it was silver fronts and pink rears. Is that not the case now?

I always thought it was funny how when you run AE springs you pretty much run the same ones everywhere but when you switch to any others, you all of a sudden have to start tuning like you have a losi
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:12 PM
  #8415  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Interesting. I remember reading that for losi BB it was silver fronts and pink rears. Is that not the case now?

I always thought it was funny how when you run AE springs you pretty much run the same ones everywhere but when you switch to any others, you all of a sudden have to start tuning like you have a losi


All depends on the track conditions
SILVER for ft spring

rear

PINK for higher traction
YELLOW For med high traction
WHITE for med traction


I have been running the Losi BB spring for a while now , just get them , do it now .

They are big improvement specially compared to the K spring standard bore springs I was recommending a few months back ...

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 12-12-2011 at 09:19 AM.
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