RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Why run out and get a new kit if your so close to having your current .1 as a .2 Mine just needs the big bores and the hex conversion and thats it. If someone is close like I am its worth just keeping it instead going through the hassle of selling it and right now most are just going to just get the .2 anyways
just got a worlds kit from lhs
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Anyone know the brand & guage wire Cav is using here. I don't see any logos.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa.../bigpics/3.jpg
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa.../bigpics/3.jpg
Maybe he got some wire out of the Stealth Bomber??? Or just wiped it with some acetone.
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Anybody order the new shock towers from the 4.2?
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I don't usually post questions concerning handling issues, but I thought I'd throw this one out to you guys. I bought this car eight years ago as a FT B4. It's pretty much a B4.1 now.
This past weekend I was running a med to high bite track. For the most part, the car handled great. I made a good tire choice and, as long as I stayed in the groove and didn't get too throttle happy, it was pretty planted in the rear.
One thing I noticed is that, as I let off the throttle approcahing a corner, I had to wait a moment before I started my turn. If I made my turn too early, it pushed. In other words, it seemed like I was waiting too long for the rear to fwd weight transfer to occur before I could turn. I'd like to be careful in what changes I make as the car is otherwise handling better than it ever has.
Any ideas or suggestions on this?
This past weekend I was running a med to high bite track. For the most part, the car handled great. I made a good tire choice and, as long as I stayed in the groove and didn't get too throttle happy, it was pretty planted in the rear.
One thing I noticed is that, as I let off the throttle approcahing a corner, I had to wait a moment before I started my turn. If I made my turn too early, it pushed. In other words, it seemed like I was waiting too long for the rear to fwd weight transfer to occur before I could turn. I'd like to be careful in what changes I make as the car is otherwise handling better than it ever has.
Any ideas or suggestions on this?
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AMB is introducing a new decoder that will not be backwards compatible to anything older than their "hybrid" pt, that means all older amb pt's as well as mrts. KEEP IN MIND that it a whole new system. There are some new features but I don't see tracks around the country dumping the current system and SPEND BIG BUCKS for a whole new system ( that requires all their customers to buy new pts ) .
The new systems will show up at some bigger tracks and newer well financed tracks, they won't be at the club level for years.
The new systems will show up at some bigger tracks and newer well financed tracks, they won't be at the club level for years.
Older AMBrc PT's will still work...MRT, nope.
How is that possible? I thought the MRTs were the "same protocol" as old ambrc. The MRTs are dialed because they work well with all sorts of voltage flux, especially in 1/8 scale electric through a metal chassis, where my AMBs were unreliable. Hrm.
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I can't beleive there is this much interest in the brand of wire a certain driver is using. I think I have about 5 different kinds in my parts box and just grab which one is about the right length for what I am trying to do.
Just figured out, this is why I keep losing
Just figured out, this is why I keep losing
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Duh.
can i get some bilud tips and what to look out for thanks
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