RC10B4.1 FT/WC
01-02-2013, 04:46 PM
Use the RPM ball cups and save yourself trouble later.. align them straight as you screw them on...or screw on further than you need and back off to make em straight.
As for the diff, did you sand both sides? I don't bother with sanding anymore but use all ceramic and my diff is butter smooth, no high/low spots when turned by hand. Make sure it's tightened properly...maybe disassemble and reassemble after cleaning and re-lubing everything? Good luck
As for the diff, did you sand both sides? I don't bother with sanding anymore but use all ceramic and my diff is butter smooth, no high/low spots when turned by hand. Make sure it's tightened properly...maybe disassemble and reassemble after cleaning and re-lubing everything? Good luck
01-02-2013, 04:55 PM
Use the long shank RPM cups......
01-02-2013, 04:56 PM
Just drilled new mounting holes for the rear shock tower. Moved it forward about an 1/8 of an inch. I used the blue eyelets from the bottom of the shocks as my spacers for the wing mount. Came out pretty good. Completely eliminates the rubbing and makes the shocks stand up straight. Took about 30 minutes.
01-02-2013, 05:02 PM
New holes or elongated the existing ones? I like the idea..
I run short(standard) RPM ball cups without an issue... I suppose they could slip threads easier than long shank, but they're also much easier to install.
I run short(standard) RPM ball cups without an issue... I suppose they could slip threads easier than long shank, but they're also much easier to install.
01-02-2013, 05:16 PM
Just drilled new mounting holes for the rear shock tower. Moved it forward about an 1/8 of an inch. I used the blue eyelets from the bottom of the shocks as my spacers for the wing mount. Came out pretty good. Completely eliminates the rubbing and makes the shocks stand up straight. Took about 30 minutes.
01-02-2013, 05:18 PM
Been assembling the 4.1 recently and had a couple of questions:
*I seem to be having difficulty aligning the stock ball cups on the tie rods. They appear centered, based upon an equal gap between the rod and plastic, when looking into the threaded side. Though several still appear cockeyed when looking from a horizontal view. Anyone else had this issue and know of a 'fix' beyond changing to another brands (RPM) cup?
*Regarding RPM cups, I actually did go ahead and buy a pack (black, short). There seems to be a fairly significant amount of bind in them. Is this normal and does anyone have any suggestions for expediting a break-in process beyond 'just running them'?
*On the diff, it feels like I have high/low spots. I'm using Acer ceramic balls (both 3/32 and 5/64) and lightly sanded both the diff and thrust rings with 1500 grit on top of a grinding stone surface and using the female outdrive to hold the larger rings. Initially, it appears the outer edges of the diff rings were 'higher' than the inner edges as evidenced by the sanding/polishing. The thrust screw appears true. Any known issues here? I'm kicking around just buying all new rings and thrust bolt/nut/spring.
Thanks in advance.
*I seem to be having difficulty aligning the stock ball cups on the tie rods. They appear centered, based upon an equal gap between the rod and plastic, when looking into the threaded side. Though several still appear cockeyed when looking from a horizontal view. Anyone else had this issue and know of a 'fix' beyond changing to another brands (RPM) cup?
*Regarding RPM cups, I actually did go ahead and buy a pack (black, short). There seems to be a fairly significant amount of bind in them. Is this normal and does anyone have any suggestions for expediting a break-in process beyond 'just running them'?
*On the diff, it feels like I have high/low spots. I'm using Acer ceramic balls (both 3/32 and 5/64) and lightly sanded both the diff and thrust rings with 1500 grit on top of a grinding stone surface and using the female outdrive to hold the larger rings. Initially, it appears the outer edges of the diff rings were 'higher' than the inner edges as evidenced by the sanding/polishing. The thrust screw appears true. Any known issues here? I'm kicking around just buying all new rings and thrust bolt/nut/spring.
Thanks in advance.
01-02-2013, 05:19 PM
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11608730-post530.html
01-02-2013, 05:26 PM
Yup bill was my inspiration
01-02-2013, 05:28 PM
01-02-2013, 05:40 PM
Tech Regular
Looks like a nice mod for V2's using bb springs also.
01-02-2013, 05:43 PM
yeah matt. That is probably the best idea on the tower if AE does not release a new tower/ubrace. The T-Plate screws 5-40 counter sunk screws and I think i have a few extras. If not I will use some 3-4mm screws I have and maybe put a nut on the bottom for support.
01-02-2013, 06:22 PM
Well everyone is posting pictures up lately so I thought I would join in here is my buggy with a new body.
Here is a few angles of the new body:
http://i.imgur.com/IvLsH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/L5m5t.jpg
Hard to see, but this is a picture of the big bores.. I just did one spacer on the arm and made it for the shock can spin freely if spun up top.. And now with a 3.0 toe block I still have no binding:
http://i.imgur.com/wdvxt.jpg
Then when I was talking about routing the wires through the front triangles earlier here is what I meant:
http://i.imgur.com/4U0zx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZoYzR.jpg
Ya I know my wing is chewed up I need a new one.. Haha
Here is a few angles of the new body:
http://i.imgur.com/IvLsH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/L5m5t.jpg
Hard to see, but this is a picture of the big bores.. I just did one spacer on the arm and made it for the shock can spin freely if spun up top.. And now with a 3.0 toe block I still have no binding:
http://i.imgur.com/wdvxt.jpg
Then when I was talking about routing the wires through the front triangles earlier here is what I meant:
http://i.imgur.com/4U0zx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZoYzR.jpg
Ya I know my wing is chewed up I need a new one.. Haha
01-02-2013, 06:32 PM
If you are running spacers behind the upper shock mount take them out and dremel the tower. Then still run the 2 lower spacers. If you are running the spacers at the top you are moving the the bodies towards the camber link when the suspension is compressed.
01-02-2013, 06:34 PM
Ya I have the tower dremeled already that is mainly what got rid of the binding. I find if you just run one spacer on the bottom it moves if far enough away that it will do the job.
01-02-2013, 06:52 PM
I went out in the garage and drilled out my worst ubrace. I ended up moving it forward 5mm. Might be a bit too much, I will mount it up in a few. I used 3mm stainless screws to secure it. They seemed to bite pretty well. I just need to counter since the chassis mount screws under the tower and mount it up.....now where are my counter sink bits, lol.