Is the 9.5 gearing recommendation on the first post with timing added?

don't think so. it is a base to start then timing addition from there.

Is this correct: "Boost" is the same as "turbo" with regards to bumping up the motor to make it run faster?

"Timing" is a hardware based device when you turn the ring on the end of the motor where the pinion shaft is located?

Sorry for the elementary question, but, I am unable to find my answer at this time.

Boost and turbo and whatever other words are just marketing terms for dynamically increasing the timing of the motor via the ESC as rpm increases to increase performance. This is possible because the ESC chooses when to fire each coil and it decides based on where the sensors say the rotor is.

Adjusting the timing on the end of the motor just changes the ESC's reference point to where the rotor is at by moving the sensors in the end of the motor.

Hopefully that makes sense.

I'm pretty sure I understand that you're saying I was correct in my analysis, right?

Does it really matter whether the extra "performance" comes from the ESC or by adjusting the sensors in the motor via a physical turn of the pinion end of the motor?

yes it does matter as via the ESC can achieve a lot more timing applied (and hence a lot more performance) before the motor goes up in smoke, as it can apply more safely once the rpms increase, dynamicly so the more and more rpms then the more and more timing as the motor is under less load.

gearing should be adjusted to a lot higher number FDR ratio if you are going to add a fairly large amount of timing.

The gearing adjustment gives u way more rip to a point, then the larger amount of timing via esc gives you back mid rpm rip and top speed and then some......

you must get it right tho as you can get poor performance and cook motors and escs a lot more easier if you get the settings wrong, and the average joe out there does get it wrong

Do a google search or look up tekins website for a guide, there are a few detailed guides around that explain it all in depth

LOST123, thanks so much for the indepth reply. That's a HUGE help to a novice. I'll definitely look much deeper into the information regarding timing/etc.

I really like some things about boost. I dislike turbo though. With boost, I can achieve the same power and speed as a timed motor that is geared through the roof, but i can do it with much lower temps. I can match the power of a blinky 13.5 with maxed out timing and gearing, by going 3-4 teeth smaller and applying some boost. Most other b4 with blinky run 150 degrees. I can run boosted at 100 degrees. This is one of the main reasons I dislike blinky as a class. Blinky often requires you to run higher temps on the motor and esc and shorten their life span. With boost my esc and motor run under or around 100 deg. I think at roar super nats the 17.5 class was boosted. IMO they should boost club races also. You can get so much more fine tuning of your power band.

Roar nats are blinky.

ah, you are correct. I was thinking of the Hotrod Shoot out.

Shootout and jbrl had both last year. Stock was blinky, expert stock was boosted. This year jbrl is all blinky.

While everything you have stated is true, the counter point is that people who just think "all out" on everything, and/or don't understand how the settings work can easily RUIN a perfectly good powerband.

That is true mike. That was the issue I had with of the "default" boost setting some of the manufactures use. I have seen default setting that are motor melting. IMO the default boost should always be mild, so that new used do fry a motor right off the bat.

@matt looks like boosted classes are on the way out. Kinda makes me sad. There is a some really great tuning options out there for boost. The power I get out of blinky is fine and tons of power normally makes me slower, but I can really tune the feel to my liking with boost. I still dont understand why boost is not taking off. Some people say we should just have only open classes and I kinda agree. It used to be that stock motors were cheapish and mod was more expensive with batteries and motors. But now it seems that stock is more costly than mod. The theory of breaking racers in the skill categories is thrown out by sand baggers. I kinda thought running 17.5 would put me in a more competitive bracket. But all it did was cause the 13.5 guys to run 2 classes, lol. It seems there will never be a sportsman class or a true novice class. Locally people have to be "forced" out of novice. To me a novice are the guys trying to figure out what clockwise is on the track.

we talked a bit about boosted last night at the jam session. Part of me feels that a lot of it is that with boosted, you got guys in RC who are not computer savy and are more comfortable working mechanical timing, etc. Who knows, when the generation that is used to ipods, etc. becomes the older crowd at the track, we could see a resurgence of the tech.

The thing you are going to start with boosted classes is that its going to be an ESC war again. People are going to have to spend $200 on the latest greatest speedo, and you are going to have to trek a laptop to the track to constantly adjust when your boost kicks in, what percentage, when it stops, etc etc....That is a complete joke, how is that good for 'spec' racing? Oh and then you are going to have to download the latest software for it..oh you dont have version 5.2.1.3....your not going to be competitive. I primarily race 17.5 off road classes and i dont buy a new motor every month. I am not pushing the envelope with temps close to 200 degrees just to get every ounce of power out of it. I was very competitive this past weekend at ocrc against some of so cal's best stock racers. My reedy 17.5 came off the track at roughly 120 degrees each time (in both buggy and truck), nobody was pulling me down the straight, nobody pulled me out of the corners. I qualified well, just wish the mains would have turned out better.