sc10racer96

iTrader: (3)

I have a question what are the advantages of using the b44 arms on a B4? Thank you.

associatevalley

iTrader: (38)

The only advantage you will gain is if your looking for a plastic stiffness in between the softer b4 arms and the stiffest b4 carbon arms. I find the middle of the road b44 arms are just right for most applications except the highest bite tracks.

Blue Screw

True life story here man.
Jeff cuffs (9 nat wins an a factory AEdriver) an I both switch Sponsors around the sametime him coming from corally an i came from tlr we both ran or very 1st offroad race together with the b4.1 an both had major prob with our diffs slipping. he said he used mip balls an i used the bfast kit.. not saying anything bad on bfast.. i then tried pretty much every combo possible from ae ceramic,ae steel, losi steel,carbite,ceramic for the diff an thrust an the best setup to me was the AE CARBITE with stock thrust. ae lube, ae black greese, compress spring, i rounded the hard edges on the spring cause it seemed to catch on bind. i also break in the diff on the bench with either a dremal or my electric screwdriver with a 5/64 allen in the screw an just hold the diff gear.. then check, tighten, check untill desired amount.. an havent had a prob since..

josephc

iTrader: (2)

My computer crashed only have my cell ohone so cant search this fourm what is the nest 17.5 set up spur and pin

elex300

iTrader: (110)

I agree 100%. The AE Carbide for diff and steel for thrust last forever. I use the Losi clear lube and AE black grease. I think the Losi lube works better. I have a diff thats 7 months old and still smoothe as butter.

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

ok, got down the the track and not sure what happened but there was 1 big jump and the rest was some tight technical driving. I noticed something not right so pulled off and when i got it i noticed 1 of the front shock caps busted right where the bleeder screw is...i got another cap but its not set up for the bleeder screw but can do it w/o a problem but i guess i want to kno if i really need the bleeder and if not and switch to alum caps are there bladders or how else do you run them if no bleeder caps since you cant get the air out w/o the bleeder???

Hope that makes sense...

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

Loosen the cap and push the shaft in....the oil will bleed out from under the cap. Thats how it was done before the bleeder screw was put in.

mashimarowu

iTrader: (8)

Nothing is consider best, its what suits your car personally.

Recommendations tho for spur and pinion is 32/33/34 and 69/72.

As for electronics, this varies between everyone so you will get many different people's opinions. If money is not a problem, I would go for a tekin rs.

I have looked around for motors in the 17.5 and it seems to me that the D3.5 is like rebranded between 4 companies. I went with the expressed motorsports just because someone told me it was hand crafted which I still don't know if its true, but I haven't had a problem with the motor since I got it.

Other brands are the reedy or tekin gen2's.

mashimarowu

iTrader: (8)

Have been using those provided inserts (white ones) with my proline suburbs and im always slipping out after landing my jump. Could the insert be the reason I'm slipping out? Plan to get CC to solve my problem.

While I'm going through my cart, I'm thinking of getting all AKAs with rebars, CC inserts, and hexlite wheels. Opinions?

Also going to try proline CC, jconcepts mono wheels, and jconcepts barcodes.

I run on a medium indoor clay track. Before I get jumped on xD, I have asked around and many people run suburbs which isn't cutting it for me at my track and I want to try different selections out. Although it varies track to track, I would just like some insight on these products depending on your guy's results and if I should avoid certain products.

I didn't mention getting jconcepts CC inserts, but if they are good, please let me know, also which soft/firm/etc would be preferred according to my track conditions.

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

Our guy that runs our local track said that ROAR has banned the D3.5 motor...

http://www.roarracing.com/?p=1842

mashimarowu

iTrader: (8)

Yea I heard about that recently. But at club level, I don't think my track has banned it since they even sell the trinity d3.5 the last time I saw.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Closed cell foam helps more on power or when hard in a corner. I doubt that's your issue. Are you getting on the throttle after the jump to keep the rear end down and hooked up? That's critical.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

raz please explain, not saying you are wrong. I normally give the buggy a split second to settle before throttle. There is one jump where the rear kicks out on landing, wondering if I need to give a little throttle before landing.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

In my experience, a burst of throttle right AS you land and the suspension starts to compress will keep the rear from rebounding up and unloading, significantly keeping the rear locked in. I do this even if I have to get right off throttle. I can't remember the last time I landed a jump without applying some amount of throttle as I was landing at some point unless I was down siding a jump very accurately and about to get right on the brake and it was not possible.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

I have been running the proline cc's with suburbs and I like them. But now I am giong to start playing around with front tires. I am going to stay with the proline cc's to keep that a constant along with the AE rims. I am going to try the barcodes, panther bobcats, AKA rebars and even the proline scrubs. I am goign to mount up each one in fronts and see which one I like then I will start with the rears but going to keep that in a suburb for now. steering is my main concern and rear traction is good. Looking at a lot of the setups on line barcodes on all corners is the consistant choice.