Not using the clips, and have assembled with different configurations of shims on the inside and outside of the axle and still have the same issue.

It is almost like the one side has the pin hole in the wrong spot

did you install the c clips on both?

you dont need any shims at all. and you should be using the C clips.

Hmm, I was getting excited. I thought indoor season was almost over and we could go play outside soon!!

And your surprised?

You're welcome.

While the foam rings/pads collect dust on the outside, they definitely keep contaminants from getting inside the ball cup when they're in good shape. Think of them like an air filter and replace when they're saturated with dust.

I'm fairly certain their "plastic" parts are made of some ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) formula and a fiber (carbon? cotton?) due to the impact-resistance, weight, texture, and rigidity of the final product. The specific mixture appears to vary from part to part. I know very little about these types of composites, so I can't give you much more than this.

Sounds like a bad bearing, I know the C clip seems goofy but hopefully people do understand that it is trying to act like a crush tube. If you remove those C clips and tighten the wheel nut down then you are forcing the hex to push the inner ring of the bearing inward and probably causing a seize. Why hasnt it done it on the other side yet, bearing just hanging on longer.

Check the C clips every so often and replace on occasion like you would your CVA's a bent or out of place c clip can make a poor handling car.

Hey guys I'm thinking about getting the b4 worlds kit. I already run 1/8 E buggy and 4x4 sct and my 7 & 8 year olds both run novice sct so I prob want be racing it too much. Iv'e never run 2wd buggy before and will most likely do more practicing and playing than racing. I run Tekin in my other vehicles but don't want to drop that much $ right away until I see if I like it (or if I can even drive the thing). Any recomidations on a cheaper power system. I def want sensored, it doesn't have to be the best but I do want something decent in case I do end up running that class too. Thanks for any help.

get a hobby wing 60 amp xerun system. the esc is like $65 and the motor is like 50ish. you can turbo and timing boost it also. and it will handles around 4000kv in a motor.

Dual sky from ckhobby is supposed to be good, but never tried it.

Thanks, I was just looking at that hobbywing set up. $133.oo with the program box sounds pretty good. What specs should I be looking for in a servo?

Well if you're on a budget check out the Solar D770. $15.50 and nice and fast.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/33p-solarservo-d770.html

Hideeho
<.1 speed
>100oz tq

Savox 1257 is a good benchmark for stats, but what ever brand/price you like. I recently got a solar d771 while my savox was being sent for repair. It's stats are better than the savox 1257, but from experience I don't believe them. That said, for $20 shipped you can't beat it as a back up or cheap way to get into a buggy. Absolutely no complaints other than stats are exaggerated, more like .1 speed & 100oz tq (adequate, but not spectacular) than the .06/189 listed. So far, it stood up to 3wks in the buggy (2 race days & 3 practice days) w/ 0 problems even with the avid steering blocks which are supposed to be rough on servos. Now that I have my savox back it's going back in & the solar will stay a backup. for a pricier option, I recently put a radiopost red in my 1/8 ebug & am unbelievably happy with it. The radiopost blue would be incredible for a buggy, but it's almost double the price of the savox & over 5x the price of the solar.

Edit: I'm to long winded ^^^ he beat me to it.

You guys need to read the posts before scrambling to a awesner, New car means new bearings. He also stated he is not using E-clips and has tried a assortment of shims to try and make it work.

I to have had this same issue. My e-clip slot is not even exposed on mine to get the clip on. So I assembled the pins and hexs without the clips, one wheel I can crank down and the other I hardly snug and it binds.

Like FLHX1550 stated its like somethings is off, either machinig or molding.

I had the same issue, I was running the exact same setup with jconcept hex's and no c-clips (forgot to put them on)......... Issue was fixed once I added them, problem solved so add the c-clips and you should be fine.......

Can someone correct me if I am wrong. The upper holes on the carbon Avid hub is A and the lower is C ? I have the shaved U-Brace so I am using the bottom-mid hole on the hub. Is this correct ?