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Old 09-06-2012 | 06:19 AM
  #19936  
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Originally Posted by Lofreq
I have the video on you tube doing this. I just used 7 nine volt batteries.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyWtc067nts
Thats what I did because I followed along with your video and it just didn't do anything. It bubbled for like 5 seconds then it stopped bubbling instantly. (Same batterys and everything)
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Old 09-06-2012 | 06:35 AM
  #19937  
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Is there a certain wheel that most folks prefer for this buggy? I bought the JCon Inverse wheels but wasn't aware it came in two pieces. Does that cause any issue or do they work normally as other 1 piece wheels do?
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Old 09-06-2012 | 06:38 AM
  #19938  
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I am sure they will work fine, but i personally would not want to use 2 piece wheels, that is so late 80's.
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Old 09-06-2012 | 06:47 AM
  #19939  
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I like the avid wheels, the JC are really stiff and the prolines are pretty soft, avid's feel somewhere in the middle. Plus if buy them in packs of 6 you get a break on price.
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Old 09-06-2012 | 07:17 AM
  #19940  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
So I am trying that anodizing thing and it's not working. I got one to work but now they are just going in the same color they came out (dark gray) any idea what I am doing wrong?

I have the negative wire on the turnbuckle positive in the simple green (no dolited). I have it for I have 81Volts to get the shiny gold. I even checked it with the volt meter to make sure its 81 volts and it is. I wrap it on the tip of the turnbuckle put it in right before the wire touches leave until bubbles stop or 35 seconds. And then pull out, but nothing happens?

What am I doing wrong?
Wires are backwards. The turnbuckle(annode) is connected to the positive terminal, do not let the lead touch the simple green unless you have the turbuckle attached to another piece if titanium. The cathode(negative)is submersed in the simple green. 81 volts will give you a purple color, 63 volts is a gold color.
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Old 09-06-2012 | 08:15 AM
  #19941  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
I like the avid wheels, the JC are really stiff and the prolines are pretty soft, avid's feel somewhere in the middle. Plus if buy them in packs of 6 you get a break on price.
Thanks for the info, I forgot all about the Avid wheels. Just got in the truck springs from them. I will give them a try.

Agreed on the two piece thing. I guess I didn't read up enough before buying them.
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Old 09-06-2012 | 08:35 AM
  #19942  
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Originally Posted by Mike C
Wires are backwards. The turnbuckle(annode) is connected to the positive terminal, do not let the lead touch the simple green unless you have the turbuckle attached to another piece if titanium. The cathode(negative)is submersed in the simple green. 81 volts will give you a purple color, 63 volts is a gold color.
Hideeho
I understand the wire attached to the turnbuckle can not touch the liquid, but what about the wire at the bottom? should I just strip off some insulation & drop the wire to the bottom of the cup? should I attach the wire to another metal (brass?, aluminum?) & drop that into the liquid? How & how much does the size & placement of the cathode effect the process? Is there any difference in the results between simple green, baking soda, & borax?

I am planning to use a large plastic cup with a brass rod down 1 side attached to the negative of 10 9v batteries (trying for red/magenta) in simple green. Hopefully I will have time this weekend to try it out.
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Old 09-06-2012 | 08:42 AM
  #19943  
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Originally Posted by Layin' Wood
Is there a certain wheel that most folks prefer for this buggy? I bought the JCon Inverse wheels but wasn't aware it came in two pieces. Does that cause any issue or do they work normally as other 1 piece wheels do?
Ae's new hex rim's are a great choice ....

Matt, got to see a set last night , about the same stiffest as the JC ..

Jc has more spokes, Ae has a reinforcement ring inside on the spokes inside their new rim ...

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 09-06-2012 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 09-06-2012 | 09:49 AM
  #19944  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Ae's new hex rim's are a great choice ....

Matt, got to see a set last night , about the same stiffest as the JC ..

Jc has more spokes, Ae has a reinforcement ring inside on the spokes inside their new rim ...
Nice. Were these in the wild or on a factory car?
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Old 09-06-2012 | 09:51 AM
  #19945  
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is ae making their own wheels or using prolines still?
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Old 09-06-2012 | 10:07 AM
  #19946  
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Originally Posted by TJMac
Nice. Were these in the wild or on a factory car?
They were still in the bag ...
White or Yellow take your pick ...


Guessing they will be available real soon ...

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-15-2013 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 09-06-2012 | 10:40 AM
  #19947  
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Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
I understand the wire attached to the turnbuckle can not touch the liquid, but what about the wire at the bottom? should I just strip off some insulation & drop the wire to the bottom of the cup? should I attach the wire to another metal (brass?, aluminum?) & drop that into the liquid? How & how much does the size & placement of the cathode effect the process? Is there any difference in the results between simple green, baking soda, & borax?

I am planning to use a large plastic cup with a brass rod down 1 side attached to the negative of 10 9v batteries (trying for red/magenta) in simple green. Hopefully I will have time this weekend to try it out.
Stripping the wire and placing it at the bottom of the cup works fine. Make sure the cathode is at least the same surface area as the working piece(turnbuckle).

I haven't tried any other solutions other than simple green.
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Old 09-06-2012 | 12:11 PM
  #19948  
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Originally Posted by Mike C
Stripping the wire and placing it at the bottom of the cup works fine. Make sure the cathode is at least the same surface area as the working piece(turnbuckle).

I haven't tried any other solutions other than simple green.
Hideeho
ok, don't need to mess w/ the copper bar. Not having the wire in the solution on BOTH ends makes more sense. Electricity will take the easiest path. Wire in on both side & electricity pretty much bypasses the titanium causing to not or to slowly & unevenly anodize.
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Old 09-06-2012 | 02:51 PM
  #19949  
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Has anyone used the tamiya x-rings instead of the kyosho x-rings and if so wat durometer 50 or 70? And does anyone know the kyosho's durometer measurement?
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Old 09-06-2012 | 03:02 PM
  #19950  
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Originally Posted by Eli
Has anyone used the tamiya x-rings instead of the kyosho x-rings and if so wat durometer 50 or 70? And does anyone know the kyosho's durometer measurement?
I sure hope they are better then the standard tamiya springs that were on my trf!
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