ive got punisher turnbuckles on mine i love them i put super duty's on the sc10 the super dutys look a little thicker and the ball cups arew a little bulkier i'de stick with the punisher on the buggy.

I still run the stock hub from my stock RTR. Haven't changed it yet.

Should I get the full package of ball cups and turnbuckles or is it better to get the RPM ball cups? If I do get the RPM ones, should I go the regular shank or longer one? I'm just afraid the longer one won't fit perfectly in length, but I don't like how short the regular one is.

i got the kit with hinge pins and ball cups they seem to be holding up fine so far haven't popped one off. I did order some white reg. length rpm's just so i could dye them to match my car

I have no need for the hinge pins as I haven't broken a single arm or hinge pin since I got my car a few months ago. I'm not worried about popping off ballcups, I just worry that they will bend where the turnbuckle inserts into the ball cup. Can you take a pic of the RPM reg length ballcup side by side with the ballcups from lunsford?

I don't have the rpm ones yet but i can when i get them in. Mine don't look crooked threaded in.

Its not when you first threaded, its overtime when you use it on the car and you crash into something. It just seems like RPM's ballcups are brittle and bendy.

how heavy is the ballast weight that comes with the buggy

17 grams

Need some help here. Ok I shaved the u brace and put on the c hubs do I need any washers under the ball stud on the u brace. I don't think so but not sure. I run on a smooth track. 17.5 no hop ups on the motor just stock. How should the b4.1 handle on the track. What to look for. And lowering the roll center on the buggy what dose that do exactly. I am new and don't understand most of these set up. Thanks for your help.

I'm in the same boat. I'd love to know the answer to these questions as well.

Just start with no washers in the rear. run some laps. try 1 washer, run some laps. Add 2 washers and run some laps. The A vs C hub debate will continue to go on. Just play with the roll centers and fine one that you like.

I don't understand all this stuff, but I know one place to go for explanations is R/C Car Handling.

Anyone in here find something that works well at ocrc in terms of rear traction? I have all the steering I need, but I just feel I have to really BABY the throttle and think there are some things I can change to make it a little better. I dont know what it is but traction seems weird there, seemed more consistent on their last layout. I havent raced there since the last layout but know they blow the track off and water much better on race nights, my problem is I mostly go there for practice since they are so close to home and the traction issue is making me go around in circles. Once you guys go over the setup, I know there are a few things I can change, but since Im not a seasoned tuner and only get about 60mins of driving per visit due to my schedule, I want to make the most of my time at the track and change things in the right order.

For guys that might have some ideas to make the best of track conditions, its hard packed dirt/clay, low/med bite with dusty top layer....man when the track is blown off and wet its a solid med to med/high but oh well.

Here is my setup

front:
ride height 24mm
toe:0
camber -0.5
caster block: 30
bump steer: 2mm
tie rod: inside on tower, a/inside position on caster block
shock: v2, 3 limiters, #2 piston, 30wt oil, green 12mm bb springs, location inside tower, outside arm
tires:gold bar codes with aka closed cell foam


rear:
ride height: 24mm
camber: -1.0
toe: 0 hub
shaved U brace with 2mm washer/or 0 washers with unshaved brace and A hub
tierod: inside on tower and B position on hub
shock: v2 shocks, 2 limiters, #2 piston, 27.5 oil, green bb 12mm spring, inside location on tower and arm
tires: proline suburbs 2.0 mc compound with aka cc foam

notes:
lrp x12 8.5t (and novak 17.5) mod: 22/81 gearing stock: 34/72
slipper set to raise front 1-2" off table
crc 5300mah full size battery (thin foam up front, large in rear)
NO ballast weight (heavy battery)
diff on tight side
carbon front arm
carbon u brace shaved 2mm
carbon front caster blocks/2 hole ones
avid steer bellcranks
transponder on servo
mip topshaft
sticky kicks white


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Things I think might help but not sure which to do first (in order of priority)
-Thinking of removing 1 front limiter to a total of 2 in the front
-Loosen the diff a hair
-Move the battery back
-Reinstall the ballast and play with battery location with it in
-Reinstall the 17.5 lol....seriously just leave the 8.5 for wcrc haha
-Try some tires along the lines of PL square fuzzies?

@66Racer, are you using any tire sauce? I know the white and green sticky kicks works well. Seeing that you have plenty of steering i would put it on the back tires only for now. Also i would recommend putting a 2mm washer under your rear ball stud with the unshaved brace. Make sure you are not using the carbon rear arms as well. I wouldn't touch the limiters, i think the car works best all around with the way you have them now.

Ah ok, I dont have the carbon rear arms, just front carbon which I forgot to mention as well as the u brace is carbon too. So Basicalled the stock u brace and 2mm washers? I can try that next time at the track. I have a stock u brace I can use since 4mm of shims seems like a lot lol. I do sauce front and rear with white sticky kicks, I will try rear only on next practice as well.

Thanks,