New Tekin SC4X Motors
09-29-2010, 09:04 PM
#241
Tech Regular
Randy will the 4.5 work with the rs pro without heat issues on 2 and 3s. I only run max amp 6500 or thunderpower 5200 50c batteries. What is the wattage of the 4.5.
Last edited by slasn_48; 09-29-2010 at 09:23 PM.
09-29-2010, 10:17 PM
#243
The RS pro will work on the SC4x motors as long as you follow a few suggestions:
Make sure to run 2 caps(TT3520) This will help keep the esc cool.
Make sure the esc can get some "clean" cool are onto the solder posts. DO NOT shrink wrap the posts, this is our "heatsink" for all intensive purposes.
Run Dual mode with low amounts of timing advance.
The RS Pro was not originally designed to run this motor so follow the tips above.
For the best solution use the Rx8. It's overbuilt for this application but will handle this motor on 2s,3s and 4s should you feel the need to blow the tires off your rims.
Make sure to run 2 caps(TT3520) This will help keep the esc cool.
Make sure the esc can get some "clean" cool are onto the solder posts. DO NOT shrink wrap the posts, this is our "heatsink" for all intensive purposes.
Run Dual mode with low amounts of timing advance.
The RS Pro was not originally designed to run this motor so follow the tips above.
For the best solution use the Rx8. It's overbuilt for this application but will handle this motor on 2s,3s and 4s should you feel the need to blow the tires off your rims.
09-30-2010, 02:20 AM
#244
U.S. Air Force
Project Blue Book
Response Guide
"I saw a UFO" -- It was swamp gas.
"I saw a UFO" -- It was Venus.
"I saw a UFO" -- It was a weather balloon.
"I saw a UFO" -- It was an ocular floater (vitreous syneresis).
"I saw a UFO" -- A thermal pocket diffracted light from a nearby carnival.
"I saw a UFO" -- A flock of geese reflected city lights from their wing surfaces.
Tekin
Customer Service
Response Guide
"My RX8 fried" -- Battery heat shrink too tight.
"My ESC exploded" -- Wrong size screws on front bumper.
"My RS Pro thermalled" -- Body clips facing the wrong direction.
"My HotWire isn't working" -- Double-sided sticky tape under receiver is too sticky.
"My SC4X gets hot quickly" -- Backlash on steering servo gear train improperly adjusted.
"Why is the warranty only 120 days?" -- Play 50's sci-fi music and reiterate: "Tekin... is... the... best."
Project Blue Book
Response Guide
"I saw a UFO" -- It was swamp gas.
"I saw a UFO" -- It was Venus.
"I saw a UFO" -- It was a weather balloon.
"I saw a UFO" -- It was an ocular floater (vitreous syneresis).
"I saw a UFO" -- A thermal pocket diffracted light from a nearby carnival.
"I saw a UFO" -- A flock of geese reflected city lights from their wing surfaces.
Tekin
Customer Service
Response Guide
"My RX8 fried" -- Battery heat shrink too tight.
"My ESC exploded" -- Wrong size screws on front bumper.
"My RS Pro thermalled" -- Body clips facing the wrong direction.
"My HotWire isn't working" -- Double-sided sticky tape under receiver is too sticky.
"My SC4X gets hot quickly" -- Backlash on steering servo gear train improperly adjusted.
"Why is the warranty only 120 days?" -- Play 50's sci-fi music and reiterate: "Tekin... is... the... best."
Last edited by Darkstar; 10-01-2010 at 12:41 PM. Reason: Fixed! :)
09-30-2010, 02:46 AM
#245
Funny how Castle took over a year to fix the MMM yet people kiss their butts about how awesome their products are. BTW, Castle even said do not use low quality batteries as this can damage the ESC. Anyways. Tekin is all about racing. Why on earth would you spend thousands on kits, and electronics then go cheap on the battery? You deserve to have your ESC fried at that point. Tekin is expensive but the great thing about it is you only have to buy it once. If you do not like Tekin then don't post and enjoy getting passed on the track by one. 
. Yes I am a Tekin fanboy b/c Tekin got it right and deserves my support.
. Yes I am a Tekin fanboy b/c Tekin got it right and deserves my support.I've both RX8 and MMMv3 while the RX8 thermals a bit with a Novak 550 4.5t the CastleEsc lived only the time to enjoy one 4s pack and drop dead. It didn't smoke but it stopped right after the first pack,many told me it was about the switch but i've tested it was working so there's no way to me to understand what's wrong with it. the MMpro i bought for the same purpose i'm using an RX8 broke the sensor port as soon as i plugged in the sensor cable and went straight to assistance,replaced it with an RX8 and i'm very happy about it. If theres one thing i'm wrong with Tekin products it's the HotWire,it doesn't work at all ,also with th eonline support theres no way to use it.
I'm waiting the new motors to (4.5/5.5) but i'm not in rush,BDW my touring car works flawlessly with an RSpro and a coupple of my Micro's have Tekin's MiniRage esc's ,those esc's rocks like no others and both are 4y.o.,i've many to compare with but none works better than Tekins
09-30-2010, 03:10 AM
#246
Thanks for the Kv ratings, now I really would like to see the power ratings (continuous and peak)
09-30-2010, 07:50 AM
#247
The RS pro will work on the SC4x motors as long as you follow a few suggestions:
Make sure to run 2 caps(TT3520) This will help keep the esc cool.
Make sure the esc can get some "clean" cool are onto the solder posts. DO NOT shrink wrap the posts, this is our "heatsink" for all intensive purposes.
Run Dual mode with low amounts of timing advance.
The RS Pro was not originally designed to run this motor so follow the tips above.
For the best solution use the Rx8. It's overbuilt for this application but will handle this motor on 2s,3s and 4s should you feel the need to blow the tires off your rims.
Make sure to run 2 caps(TT3520) This will help keep the esc cool.
Make sure the esc can get some "clean" cool are onto the solder posts. DO NOT shrink wrap the posts, this is our "heatsink" for all intensive purposes.
Run Dual mode with low amounts of timing advance.
The RS Pro was not originally designed to run this motor so follow the tips above.
For the best solution use the Rx8. It's overbuilt for this application but will handle this motor on 2s,3s and 4s should you feel the need to blow the tires off your rims.
The footprint is bigger, but less $ = more reliability in SCT seems like a no brainer to me
09-30-2010, 08:02 AM
#248
Tech Regular
But my last question is why is the rs pro more exspensive? I would think it should be able to run that motor with no problem. I think I will stick with castle esc. and neu motors.
09-30-2010, 08:11 AM
#249
Tekin. What would be cool is if you make a Short Course RS ESC design for these 550 motors. I'll buy a combo in a heartbeat. 
09-30-2010, 08:16 AM
#250
And this is why I don't understand Tekin does not solder ESC's or motors in the factory. Especially a motor like the SC4X that you KNOW is going to be used in dirty circumstances would benefit by a properly soldered set of wires. I know I can do it but I don't know many others that can. This is where Caslte does a better job with monster series. De motor has a good wires, well soldered (for a chinese product) and de MMM has 6,5mm sockets instead of tabs you have to solder first. First thing I will do with my first Tekin motor is solder Castle connectors on there. At a certain moment the motor has to come out (for maintanance) and then you have a problem with your fixed wires.
Thanks for the Kv ratings, now I really would like to see the power ratings (continuous and peak)
Thanks for the Kv ratings, now I really would like to see the power ratings (continuous and peak)
09-30-2010, 08:19 AM
#251
De motor has a good wires, well soldered (for a chinese product) and de MMM has 6,5mm sockets instead of tabs you have to solder first. First thing I will do with my first Tekin motor is solder Castle connectors on there.
Once I have everything dialed in I'm gonna remove the bullet connector wires and direct solder the motor to the ESC.
09-30-2010, 09:16 AM
#252
We dont' pre wire any of our esc/motor combos because they can't possibly fit everything right. If you had to cut the wires at ANY point it was now a waste of time and $$.
If you're installing a new motor it should be clean, not dirty!?
09-30-2010, 03:43 PM
#253
all I want is the motor so I can put it up front. Then they will have to go find another product to cut down.
09-30-2010, 04:05 PM
#254
Most serious racers will want to wire everything themselves. I want my wires at the right angle to pass freely to the motor but at the same time using the shortest length of wire possible to reduce resistance. I have a Novak Pro SC in my Jammin which was pre-wired. Do to their wiring coming off straight up I am forced to use more wire to make it angle down to my motor. With the RS-Pro in the car, I have the wires coming out near horizontal with less binding and stress on servo tape.
Pre-wired speed controls are easy to install with no worries about being able to solder, but they are not the idea layout.
I put motor and esc in car then measure out length of wire I want for each connection and gradually remove more until I get the length just right. Short as possible with room for chassis flex and not bound up or pushing esc away. Once I have my wires cut to length I want, I remove esc and solder wires at angle that I choose. I cannot ever remember the perfect angle being straight up or straight out. I reinstall it the esc in car and solder wires to motor.
Using this method, everything looks clean, solder joints are perfect, obviously tinning everything. I have never lost a wire in a wreck, from heat, etc. and I have been racing RC since I had a Turbo Ultima. With a Tekin!
Only recently have you ever been able to get quality race rc cars prebuilt. I have enjoyed building every kit I own, and when it comes time for maintenance, it is very simple since you built the kit.
Pre-wired speed controls are easy to install with no worries about being able to solder, but they are not the idea layout.
I put motor and esc in car then measure out length of wire I want for each connection and gradually remove more until I get the length just right. Short as possible with room for chassis flex and not bound up or pushing esc away. Once I have my wires cut to length I want, I remove esc and solder wires at angle that I choose. I cannot ever remember the perfect angle being straight up or straight out. I reinstall it the esc in car and solder wires to motor.
Using this method, everything looks clean, solder joints are perfect, obviously tinning everything. I have never lost a wire in a wreck, from heat, etc. and I have been racing RC since I had a Turbo Ultima. With a Tekin!
Only recently have you ever been able to get quality race rc cars prebuilt. I have enjoyed building every kit I own, and when it comes time for maintenance, it is very simple since you built the kit.
10-01-2010, 12:20 PM
#255
The RS pro will work on the SC4x motors as long as you follow a few suggestions:
Make sure to run 2 caps(TT3520) This will help keep the esc cool.
Make sure the esc can get some "clean" cool are onto the solder posts. DO NOT shrink wrap the posts, this is our "heatsink" for all intensive purposes.
Run Dual mode with low amounts of timing advance.
The RS Pro was not originally designed to run this motor so follow the tips above.
For the best solution use the Rx8. It's overbuilt for this application but will handle this motor on 2s,3s and 4s should you feel the need to blow the tires off your rims.
Make sure to run 2 caps(TT3520) This will help keep the esc cool.
Make sure the esc can get some "clean" cool are onto the solder posts. DO NOT shrink wrap the posts, this is our "heatsink" for all intensive purposes.
Run Dual mode with low amounts of timing advance.
The RS Pro was not originally designed to run this motor so follow the tips above.
For the best solution use the Rx8. It's overbuilt for this application but will handle this motor on 2s,3s and 4s should you feel the need to blow the tires off your rims.