80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
07-13-2017, 12:35 AM
Corner scal is great to have, and its worth every cent! i hed got a great deal on the sky rc corner scale, nice featers there, as you see front/rear and left/right weight bias, ...
But you can use 4 single scales too.
Yes, its 60-65rear/40-35front, this works great for any 2wd, but you should look to get as close to 65/35, as you can, ...
This are my impressions, may for another person, this is to much rear bias?
But you can use 4 single scales too.
Yes, its 60-65rear/40-35front, this works great for any 2wd, but you should look to get as close to 65/35, as you can, ...
This are my impressions, may for another person, this is to much rear bias?
I have always wanted to try one of those corner scale setups. I was going to snag the Gforce one off Amain but someone got it before me ;-; The SkyRC unit looks exactly the same though so I'll save some cash and get one of those on ebay instead. I assume I can use each of the corner scales as its own individual scale if I just wanted to weigh some small parts like hinge pins/turnbuckles and carbon parts?I think my current weight bias is close based on how I mounted things but it'll be nice to check when I get the scales
Especially since I'm running 17.5 and would like to be competitive in Sportsman, so this added weight distribution could be a big help.EDIT: After some serious ebay scouring, I think I have about 5 complete front ends, 4 or 5 rear ends, 5 gear diffs, rod ends, hingepins and hardware galore. If I can get two years out of my ExoDex I will be a happy camper and I will finally move on to a new 2wd platform (Hopefully a Tekno 2wd!)
Last edited by EbbTide; 07-13-2017 at 10:04 AM.
07-14-2017, 11:05 AM
Hey folks, I have an itch and I need to scratch it. So I have a bunch of hop ups that I bought for my old DEX210 like titanium shock mounts, titanium screws, titanium hingepins etc.
Well I was thinking perhaps I could benefit a tiny bit by installing titanium screws only on parts above the chassis like in the steering assembly, gearbox, hubs etc. And then leaving all of the steel screws on the bottom of the chassis or at least on parts closest to the ground. I was thinking this would lower the center of gravity a bit? I'm just not sure if it'd be worth it to make the effort. This would be for stock 17.5 of course. And these titanium screws and hop ups would be going into the Exotek DEX210 from Fred.
Just spit-balling because I have too much time on my hands right now lol
Well I was thinking perhaps I could benefit a tiny bit by installing titanium screws only on parts above the chassis like in the steering assembly, gearbox, hubs etc. And then leaving all of the steel screws on the bottom of the chassis or at least on parts closest to the ground. I was thinking this would lower the center of gravity a bit? I'm just not sure if it'd be worth it to make the effort. This would be for stock 17.5 of course. And these titanium screws and hop ups would be going into the Exotek DEX210 from Fred.
Just spit-balling because I have too much time on my hands right now lol
07-14-2017, 08:55 PM
Tech Addict
It's steel front axel. 12mm. Any B5 or B6 rim will work from all those manufacturers. No modification needed.
07-14-2017, 08:56 PM
Tech Addict
Hi EbbTide,
About Ti screws, i never understood, that these are worth the money, for me these are bling only!?
What is the weight differents between, lets say 10 steel 3x15 mm screws and the same size ti screws, 1.5 g? But costs are about 10+ times on the ti screws.
For some bling, i bought each of a box of about 500 pcs of 3x20 mm stainless steel and galvaniced screws, for about € 2.50,-/ each box, in a big hardware shop, next to my work and cut them in the right length, i need.
Some people in stock racing are just cracy, so my opinion, they spend money in all those low weight parts, cutting gears, extrem expensive bearings and so on, i can not understand, but this is, why aftermarket companys live from, and not bad at all!
Was not stock racing created for some people that could not get the best, greates and most expensive cars/radio gear, back in the days?
Now it is switched by 180%, if you want to be competitive, stock class is more expensive than mod!
About Ti screws, i never understood, that these are worth the money, for me these are bling only!?
What is the weight differents between, lets say 10 steel 3x15 mm screws and the same size ti screws, 1.5 g? But costs are about 10+ times on the ti screws.
For some bling, i bought each of a box of about 500 pcs of 3x20 mm stainless steel and galvaniced screws, for about € 2.50,-/ each box, in a big hardware shop, next to my work and cut them in the right length, i need.
Some people in stock racing are just cracy, so my opinion, they spend money in all those low weight parts, cutting gears, extrem expensive bearings and so on, i can not understand, but this is, why aftermarket companys live from, and not bad at all!
Was not stock racing created for some people that could not get the best, greates and most expensive cars/radio gear, back in the days?
Now it is switched by 180%, if you want to be competitive, stock class is more expensive than mod!
07-14-2017, 09:28 PM
Hi EbbTide,
About Ti screws, i never understood, that these are worth the money, for me these are bling only!?
What is the weight differents between, lets say 10 steel 3x15 mm screws and the same size ti screws, 1.5 g? But costs are about 10+ times on the ti screws.
For some bling, i bought each of a box of about 500 pcs of 3x20 mm stainless steel and galvaniced screws, for about € 2.50,-/ each box, in a big hardware shop, next to my work and cut them in the right length, i need.
Some people in stock racing are just cracy, so my opinion, they spend money in all those low weight parts, cutting gears, extrem expensive bearings and so on, i can not understand, but this is, why aftermarket companys live from, and not bad at all!
Was not stock racing created for some people that could not get the best, greates and most expensive cars/radio gear, back in the days?
Now it is switched by 180%, if you want to be competitive, stock class is more expensive than mod!
About Ti screws, i never understood, that these are worth the money, for me these are bling only!?
What is the weight differents between, lets say 10 steel 3x15 mm screws and the same size ti screws, 1.5 g? But costs are about 10+ times on the ti screws.
For some bling, i bought each of a box of about 500 pcs of 3x20 mm stainless steel and galvaniced screws, for about € 2.50,-/ each box, in a big hardware shop, next to my work and cut them in the right length, i need.
Some people in stock racing are just cracy, so my opinion, they spend money in all those low weight parts, cutting gears, extrem expensive bearings and so on, i can not understand, but this is, why aftermarket companys live from, and not bad at all!
Was not stock racing created for some people that could not get the best, greates and most expensive cars/radio gear, back in the days?
Now it is switched by 180%, if you want to be competitive, stock class is more expensive than mod!
As you can see, I am going a bit part crazy. But I can't be stopped. 
07-15-2017, 02:54 PM
A little practice update. The Exotek DEX210 is looking great! It handles quite a bit better than my other dex210 with the +8 dimec chassis. This exotek setup just cuts through corners like nothing and even made me look good with its semi forgiving nature if I went too far over a curb.
All in all super happy with its performance. I need some tweaks because right now my front end likes to come down too quick off some jumps. I'm not sure whether I should try lighter or heavier springs? Or maybe add some preload or less preload?
My quickest time was just under 20. Not bad for being out of the game for a while. It's just going to get better anyway.
All in all super happy with its performance. I need some tweaks because right now my front end likes to come down too quick off some jumps. I'm not sure whether I should try lighter or heavier springs? Or maybe add some preload or less preload?
My quickest time was just under 20. Not bad for being out of the game for a while. It's just going to get better anyway.
07-15-2017, 04:37 PM
Tech Apprentice
The SkyRC corner weight system is nice. It works well enough to make you neurotic about things for sure.
Competitiveness of this car. Maybe at a pro level but 99 percent of us are local track people. .2 seconds per lap, please. Rub a few corners cutting it too close and that is gone. Maybe that stuff matters on fake tracks but in dirt, even the rear motor 210 is competitive. A friend of mine runs a gold pan occasionally and he beats b6's with it. That thing is a couple generations older than the 210. If the car is hard to drive it's not set up right. Marketing is magic and everything new makes you faster. Couldn't resist.... Somebody hold me back LMAO
Competitiveness of this car. Maybe at a pro level but 99 percent of us are local track people. .2 seconds per lap, please. Rub a few corners cutting it too close and that is gone. Maybe that stuff matters on fake tracks but in dirt, even the rear motor 210 is competitive. A friend of mine runs a gold pan occasionally and he beats b6's with it. That thing is a couple generations older than the 210. If the car is hard to drive it's not set up right. Marketing is magic and everything new makes you faster. Couldn't resist.... Somebody hold me back LMAO
07-15-2017, 04:47 PM
The SkyRC corner weight system is nice. It works well enough to make you neurotic about things for sure.
Competitiveness of this car. Maybe at a pro level but 99 percent of us are local track people. .2 seconds per lap, please. Rub a few corners cutting it too close and that is gone. Maybe that stuff matters on fake tracks but in dirt, even the rear motor 210 is competitive. A friend of mine runs a gold pan occasionally and he beats b6's with it. That thing is a couple generations older than the 210. If the car is hard to drive it's not set up right. Marketing is magic and everything new makes you faster. Couldn't resist.... Somebody hold me back LMAO
Competitiveness of this car. Maybe at a pro level but 99 percent of us are local track people. .2 seconds per lap, please. Rub a few corners cutting it too close and that is gone. Maybe that stuff matters on fake tracks but in dirt, even the rear motor 210 is competitive. A friend of mine runs a gold pan occasionally and he beats b6's with it. That thing is a couple generations older than the 210. If the car is hard to drive it's not set up right. Marketing is magic and everything new makes you faster. Couldn't resist.... Somebody hold me back LMAO
At my level, it doesn't matter much which car I drive, so long as I set it up for my driving style and stay consistent. I do admit to buying nicer electronics and some lightweight stuff but mostly because I like my motor and ESC to run as cool as possible lol Not so much for shaving time off. Today I had this car geared at 5.9:1 and there was a lot of room to go further if we had a bigger track. Just loving this thing and it makes me look forward to trying out the carbon fiber chassis on my other V2 buggy for a comparison between the Exotek aluminum chassis and their CF chassis.
07-17-2017, 08:26 AM
Chassis protection for Exotek V3 chassis?
Well I finally spent a few minutes closely looking over my buggy after the practice day this weekend and I noticed the front kick up plate on the chassis has some wear going on already. I have an old TBR front bumper like this that I'd like to use...
https://tboneracing.net/collections/...durango-dex210
... but I'm not sure how this would effect the buggy's handling. Can anyone chime in on whether this will have a substantial negative impact?
Also, for anyone looking, Exotek seems to have found some more V3 aluminum chassis upgrades in their storage somewhere because they are back in stock I got a spare just in case catastrophe strikes lol
https://tboneracing.net/collections/...durango-dex210
... but I'm not sure how this would effect the buggy's handling. Can anyone chime in on whether this will have a substantial negative impact?
Also, for anyone looking, Exotek seems to have found some more V3 aluminum chassis upgrades in their storage somewhere because they are back in stock
I got a spare just in case catastrophe strikes lol
07-17-2017, 10:32 AM
Tech Regular
We have started a 13.5 motor Wingless Sprint class. So I'm tempeted to buy a cage and panels and make my Durango a Wingless Sprint Car.
07-17-2017, 10:38 AM
if you've got the parts keep the Durango going by any means!
07-17-2017, 09:01 PM
Well I put the car on the corner weight system and so far it doesn't seem too bad. My right and left balance is 50/50 but my front and rear balance is at 38/62. And my total weight with tires, body etc is just at 1500 grams soaking wet 
. I'm going to add rear aluminum hubs to see if it balances things out. I've got both Exotek and TD hubs to chose from.
. I'm going to add rear aluminum hubs to see if it balances things out. I've got both Exotek and TD hubs to chose from.
07-17-2017, 10:06 PM
Well I put the car on the corner weight system and so far it doesn't seem too bad. My right and left balance is 50/50 but my front and rear balance is at 38/62. And my total weight with tires, body etc is just at 1500 grams soaking wet . I'm going to add rear aluminum hubs to see if it balances things out. I've got both Exotek and TD hubs to chose from.
. I'm going to add rear aluminum hubs to see if it balances things out. I've got both Exotek and TD hubs to chose from.
07-17-2017, 10:30 PM
I think I do need to shift a small bit rearward because my rear end likes to swing out a bit coming off the front straight with hard breaking into an s-turn with a jump at each corner exit. It's controllable but I'm sure I'm losing time from it Also, do you think this rear shift in weight might partially resolve my nose-down issue?
07-18-2017, 05:43 AM
Weight balance doesn't affect nose up or down in flight. Spring balance does. You need more in front or less in back. Adding rear weight would automatically affect this.
Whether or not this fixes your rear grip issue is not known. Even a heavily rear biased car can have the rear swing out on corner entry. It'll happen if the rear roll center or stiffness is too great in relation to the front. Everything is about balance. If the roll centers are similar, more rear weight might be needed.
Whether or not this fixes your rear grip issue is not known. Even a heavily rear biased car can have the rear swing out on corner entry. It'll happen if the rear roll center or stiffness is too great in relation to the front. Everything is about balance. If the roll centers are similar, more rear weight might be needed.