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Originally Posted by whipnet
(Post 5837746)
The build has been going smooth so far, but I have run into a problem with the pins in the rear hubs.
I know there been some mention of problems with the rear hubs, but has anyone had problems sliding the roll pins into the axle? It's not just tight, they will not go. I tried lubricating it and I got one 1/2 in by tapping it with a hammer, but it would go no futher. When I tried to pull it out I noticed I crushed it!! A hollow pin????????? Can someone tell me the reason behind this? Are these crappy parts supposed to drive the wheels. Doesn't look good. And no spares at all from AE it appears. Any advice other than ordering and waiting for more pins and drilling out the axles? I expected more from an AE kit. * |
A body clip works too, in a pinch.
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Originally Posted by Jamie007
(Post 5838394)
A body clip works too, in a pinch.
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Losi pins are longe and fill more of the slot on the wheel. I have not stripped a wheel since I changed to them but I do use the epoxy also. I still striped a wheel with epoxy before I changed to the Losi pins.
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AE has used these pins for years and no problems once you figure out a system to put them in. I usually round one end so it will start easier and then take a pair of needle nose to push the pin in. Once it starts it slides better. The hollow pin allows it to contract as it goes in so it will be a tight fit and not fall out. Make sure your wheels are lined up when you tighten the nut and don't overtighten or you'll bind the axle up.
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I actually used that trick for my cvd's on my t4 when I lost the pin. I have had it that way for a month with no issues, and no plans to change it unless I have too.
Originally Posted by mcdonaldsracing
(Post 5838476)
didn't think about that, but that's a good one:) Do they hold up though, or is it more of a temporary track fix?
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Originally Posted by whipnet
(Post 5837746)
Any advice other than ordering and waiting for more pins and drilling out the axles? I expected more from an AE kit.
* and the roll pin eased in much better. boy, $4 for 4 pins??????? they made of adamantium or something???? |
What other great ideas
the roll pins are only good for a few races. and break in the main. if you are just bashing that would not matter.
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Originally Posted by PT Hill Top RC
(Post 5838888)
the roll pins are only good for a few races. and break in the main. if you are just bashing that would not matter.
and if Shoo Goo, Duct Tape and Zip ties can't fix it, then it cant be fixed. |
What are you guys doing to these roll pins?? I've used them in every Associated electric vehicle I've owned over the last 6-7 years with no problems.
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Originally Posted by gregm
(Post 5839025)
You're kidding right? The roll pins in my t4 are a year old. The ones in the B4 I had before it lasted 3 seasons. :weird:
and if Shoo Goo, Duct Tape and Zip ties can't fix it, then it cant be fixed. |
all i have to say is the gt2 hubs fit the sc10 a-arms , just you wont be able to change the wheel base. i instaled them with the gt2 bearings and crush tube (the 1.5) and :lol: it made me an expert driver and i suck at racing . and thats all i am going to say about that :eek::smile::nod:
now if there was a way to not use a remote and only mind power :weird: |
They definitely can break. I bought a 4 ft length of piano wire at a hobby shop many years ago for 50 cents, just cut off with a dremel as needed, still have tons left. :) as the above post said, the solid pins don't break, but can fall out when changing tires.
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Hmm, I stand corrected. Now that I opened my big mouth I'll break a roll pin the next time at the track :sweat:
FYI the GT2 hubs on the SC10 arms will widen the truck up which also will lock in the rear too. Just watch that you don't have a dog-bone skip or slip out at full extension. |
:cry: I've built lots of B4, T4, and RC10GT's.... none never were a pain like this Thunder Tiger built axle.
JD Crow, hows your SC10 performing? Next time your rained out, go west on I-30. We'll be glad to have ya race at Mikes Hobby Shop. :nod: |
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