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Old 05-24-2012 | 01:32 PM
  #12061  
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Originally Posted by ksarantakos
I just ended up buying a new transmission case. I'd love to not have to do that again, so I too am interested in what people are doing to remove these bearings.

-kyri
I pry mine out with either a nitro tuning screwdriver or eyeglasses flathead screwdriver found in a eyeglasses repair kit
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Old 05-24-2012 | 02:12 PM
  #12062  
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Originally Posted by J_Bone
I have a pick/hook set that I used. I was able to get the point between the bearing and case and pry it out.


I don't have pics at this moment. On the rear camber link, you grind down flat where the inner ball stud mounts. The stock brace sits up .060/2mm or two washers high.
I take it this is on the tower mount? after you grind that off I guess your not using any spacers either huh? whats this do over stock??
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Old 05-24-2012 | 02:30 PM
  #12063  
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Originally Posted by trickedout
I take it this is on the tower mount? after you grind that off I guess your not using any spacers either huh? whats this do over stock??
The inner ball stud screws into the chassis brace. The tower mounts on top of that. Some guys had one washer while others had none.
I was told it will give more rear wheel traction. I dont have the c-clock to install yet so I'm going off what the ae guys I race with said.
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Old 05-24-2012 | 02:36 PM
  #12064  
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Originally Posted by eper
just put the top shaft into the bearing and wobble it and pull lightly at same time the bearing will pop out
This is how I do it. I actually have an old one I use as a tool I put a handle on with some JB Weld.
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Old 05-24-2012 | 03:45 PM
  #12065  
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Originally Posted by muzza_t
Hi guys, do any of you run the Kyosho Big Bores on your SC10's? If so what oil and springs are working for you. Cheers in advance.
I too would be interested in an answer to this.
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Old 05-24-2012 | 04:27 PM
  #12066  
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Originally Posted by Lake Ober
I know this question was asked, and answered, within the last 1-2 weeks (on this SC10 thread). Just look at posts a few pages back, and I'm sure you'll find what your looking for
all i could find was toward the bottom of pg 795. didnt really answer it for me tho. maybe i missed something

Originally Posted by J_Bone
I haven't yet, but as soon as I get the C-block I will let you know. My chassis brace is already cut down.
Two guys did this and they were hooked up and flying! They said it was a must!!
thanks!
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Old 05-25-2012 | 05:25 AM
  #12067  
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for u guys asking about the c hub tower heres what i found. if your truck is already rotating well and your trying to get more side bite the c hub is the wrong way to go. its seemed to make the truck more loose on entry and takes away alittle forward bite.
as for running kyosho bb on the sc 10 all i can say is that a freind tried them on the buggy and the car way better on the v2s. they take away from the agility of that platform.and i think they will do the same on the sc. i just switched to ae after 4 years with kyosho and the ae cars are more more direct feeling and way more responsive to driver input. i never felt like i could race hard head to head with the kyosho, with the ae cars i can push way harder and not just turn consistant laps but race side by side and usually come out smiling
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Old 05-25-2012 | 05:26 AM
  #12068  
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What do people use for fluid with the gear diff? I have 3,5,7,10,30 and was wondering what I should put in a friends car.
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Old 05-25-2012 | 06:31 AM
  #12069  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
What do people use for fluid with the gear diff? I have 3,5,7,10,30 and was wondering what I should put in a friends car.
2000 (real loose) to 7000 (high traction). find your happy medium from there.
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Old 05-25-2012 | 08:33 AM
  #12070  
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Originally Posted by ksarantakos
What do you mean by cut down? Are there pics someplace that show this mod?

-kyri
Here's a picture of a cut down one.
Attached Thumbnails SC10 Thread-chassis-brace.jpg  
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Old 05-25-2012 | 09:34 AM
  #12071  
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hey guys when you increase limiters in your shocks how many intervals do u go up or down at one time. my set up calls for 5 in front and 3 in rear and im adding them to help with this traction roll prob im haveing at the moment . please give me a lil advise. one more thing if i dont have enough limiters can i use ball stud washers instead they seem to nb the same size n thickness as i place them side by side?
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Old 05-25-2012 | 10:06 AM
  #12072  
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Originally Posted by gamedog1966
hey guys when you increase limiters in your shocks how many intervals do u go up or down at one time. my set up calls for 5 in front and 3 in rear and im adding them to help with this traction roll prob im haveing at the moment . please give me a lil advise. one more thing if i dont have enough limiters can i use ball stud washers instead they seem to nb the same size n thickness as i place them side by side?
You can go that route, try adding more negitve camber to help with traction roll. Are you running the Maifield setup? I'm running the 5 washer in front and 3 in rear, but I have my shock located in the drilled #0 hole. If its in the #1 hole I would only run 1 limiter washer.

Don't use the ball stud spacers. The shock spacers are plastic and the ball stud washers are metal and will scrape and gouge the shaft and wear in out in a matter of minutes. Only use the plastic washers.
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Old 05-25-2012 | 10:33 AM
  #12073  
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Originally Posted by J_Bone
You can go that route, try adding more negitve camber to help with traction roll. Are you running the Maifield setup? I'm running the 5 washer in front and 3 in rear, but I have my shock located in the drilled #0 hole. If its in the #1 hole I would only run 1 limiter washer.

Don't use the ball stud spacers. The shock spacers are plastic and the ball stud washers are metal and will scrape and gouge the shaft and wear in out in a matter of minutes. Only use the plastic washers.
yeah im running the maifield setup and im in the drilled #0 hole and my truck is traction rolling and have a lil more steering than i want and i wont use the metal ones either my friend, how much more neg camber should i add? im already at -1 all around
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Old 05-25-2012 | 10:45 AM
  #12074  
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Originally Posted by gamedog1966
yeah im running the maifield setup and im in the drilled #0 hole and my truck is traction rolling and have a lil more steering than i want and i wont use the metal ones either my friend
Ok, try adding more negitive camber. Some people have gone back to the #1 hole.
The Maifield setup is real aggressive and responsive.
I had to use the expo in my Radio to dial out some of the steering. Mine is set to -50
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Old 05-25-2012 | 10:48 AM
  #12075  
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Old post may help
Originally Posted by J_Bone
I'm running a setup based on the Maifield setup and changed a few things.
  • I used my Radio for the first adjustment. I had to run -50 expo to slow down the initial movement.
  • I took out one bump steer washer. From .060 to .030, or 1mm to 2mm. This took out the twitchyness I was having on the bumpy corners and corrections after jumps.
Other options that can help; caution that too many changes can totally ruin a setup and one change should be done at a time.
  • On the front shocks, move the upper mounting to the middle hole.
  • On the front shocks, use heavier oil.
  • More negative camber in the front. That will give less side bite.
  • Running a less aggressive tire. Sometimes I run a tire that is worn down a bit.
Hope some of those will help.
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