SC10 Thread
I pry mine out with either a nitro tuning screwdriver or eyeglasses flathead screwdriver found in a eyeglasses repair kit
I have a pick/hook set that I used. I was able to get the point between the bearing and case and pry it out.
I don't have pics at this moment. On the rear camber link, you grind down flat where the inner ball stud mounts. The stock brace sits up .060/2mm or two washers high.
I don't have pics at this moment. On the rear camber link, you grind down flat where the inner ball stud mounts. The stock brace sits up .060/2mm or two washers high.
I was told it will give more rear wheel traction. I dont have the c-clock to install yet so I'm going off what the ae guys I race with said.

thanks!
for u guys asking about the c hub tower heres what i found. if your truck is already rotating well and your trying to get more side bite the c hub is the wrong way to go. its seemed to make the truck more loose on entry and takes away alittle forward bite.
as for running kyosho bb on the sc 10 all i can say is that a freind tried them on the buggy and the car way better on the v2s. they take away from the agility of that platform.and i think they will do the same on the sc. i just switched to ae after 4 years with kyosho and the ae cars are more more direct feeling and way more responsive to driver input. i never felt like i could race hard head to head with the kyosho, with the ae cars i can push way harder and not just turn consistant laps but race side by side and usually come out smiling
as for running kyosho bb on the sc 10 all i can say is that a freind tried them on the buggy and the car way better on the v2s. they take away from the agility of that platform.and i think they will do the same on the sc. i just switched to ae after 4 years with kyosho and the ae cars are more more direct feeling and way more responsive to driver input. i never felt like i could race hard head to head with the kyosho, with the ae cars i can push way harder and not just turn consistant laps but race side by side and usually come out smiling
hey guys when you increase limiters in your shocks how many intervals do u go up or down at one time. my set up calls for 5 in front and 3 in rear and im adding them to help with this traction roll prob im haveing at the moment . please give me a lil advise. one more thing if i dont have enough limiters can i use ball stud washers instead they seem to nb the same size n thickness as i place them side by side?
hey guys when you increase limiters in your shocks how many intervals do u go up or down at one time. my set up calls for 5 in front and 3 in rear and im adding them to help with this traction roll prob im haveing at the moment . please give me a lil advise. one more thing if i dont have enough limiters can i use ball stud washers instead they seem to nb the same size n thickness as i place them side by side?
Don't use the ball stud spacers. The shock spacers are plastic and the ball stud washers are metal and will scrape and gouge the shaft and wear in out in a matter of minutes. Only use the plastic washers.
You can go that route, try adding more negitve camber to help with traction roll. Are you running the Maifield setup? I'm running the 5 washer in front and 3 in rear, but I have my shock located in the drilled #0 hole. If its in the #1 hole I would only run 1 limiter washer.
Don't use the ball stud spacers. The shock spacers are plastic and the ball stud washers are metal and will scrape and gouge the shaft and wear in out in a matter of minutes. Only use the plastic washers.
Don't use the ball stud spacers. The shock spacers are plastic and the ball stud washers are metal and will scrape and gouge the shaft and wear in out in a matter of minutes. Only use the plastic washers.
The Maifield setup is real aggressive and responsive.
I had to use the expo in my Radio to dial out some of the steering. Mine is set to -50
Old post may help
I'm running a setup based on the Maifield setup and changed a few things.
- I used my Radio for the first adjustment. I had to run -50 expo to slow down the initial movement.
- I took out one bump steer washer. From .060 to .030, or 1mm to 2mm. This took out the twitchyness I was having on the bumpy corners and corrections after jumps.
- On the front shocks, move the upper mounting to the middle hole.
- On the front shocks, use heavier oil.
- More negative camber in the front. That will give less side bite.
- Running a less aggressive tire. Sometimes I run a tire that is worn down a bit.




