Thanks.

Im expecting parts orders in the next 2 weeks.

Ill stip it down and lube everything but wont replace.

has anyone tried the C tower and shaved chassis brace on this truck?

Hmm I think I already asked this but now I cant find it....

Just ordered a Hobbywing X10 Combo

(re: The bottom one on the list http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=243)

And am not sure what Pinion to run, I have a 18t and a 19t, Im thinking I will need a 22/23t?

I'm running that same motor with a 120a ESC. I run a 23/75 gear combo for a FDR of 8.48. The 13.5 recommendation is an FDR of 8.5. My temps are 140 after 5 minutes. I would start with 22/75 and check temps. Go to 23/75 if you can stand it.

Legend!

Hey Guys,

I went to my LHS yesterday to pick up a pack of AE Factory Team solid axle pins (Part #ASC1654), to replace the stock roll pins that came with my SC10. When I got there and found out they were more then $1 a piece I was kind of surprised. The owner of the shop, told me that he sells long 3' pieces of metal rod that are stronger then the AE pins, and only cost $.60 for the whole long piece of it. So, I took it to the bench, cut out a few pieces of it to the length of the AE roll pins I was replacing, put them behind my new Avid hex adapters... and they worked perfect. However, now I have a huge piece of this metal rod, and rather then just letting it sit, figured I'd help some fellow RC'ers out. So, if anyone on here wants a piece of it, just PM me your address, and I will mail you out a section of it that you can easily cut 4 pins from... you can just use a strong pair of wire cutters or a Dremel, to cut it down to the desired size. Don't worry about paying me anything for it... just leave me some feedback if it works out good for you. Beat's paying $4.00 for a pack of em' I am only going to be sending these to U.S. addresses. Sorry non-U.S. guys


^^^ Here is a picture of some pieces I have cut down all ready to send out. Each one of these pieces is approximately 7cm long, and will be long enough to make atleast 6 axle pins. I recommend using these solid axle pins only if you are using hex adapters. They do not fit in as snug as the stock roll pins do (neither do the F.T. pins), so they work best if you use adapters... as they hold the pins in place.

I know this question was asked, and answered, within the last 1-2 weeks (on this SC10 thread). Just look at posts a few pages back, and I'm sure you'll find what your looking for

I haven't yet, but as soon as I get the C-block I will let you know. My chassis brace is already cut down.
Two guys did this and they were hooked up and flying! They said it was a must!!

Here's one way to control the cheating

At any given time if a driver thinks another driver is cheating you throw down $100 on the table. If he is in fact cheating you take that car/truck for $100 as it sits. If you are wrong and he is not cheating he gets the $100 bucks. Obviously everyone at the track needs to understand and be in agreement before you would put something like this in place

Not sure how many people would be willing to give up their car/truck for $100 just to win a club race

Hi guys, do any of you run the Kyosho Big Bores on your SC10's? If so what oil and springs are working for you. Cheers in advance.

Small bearing in trans case will not pry out. No access to punch out from the outside of the case. Anyone know a way to get out without damaging the bearing.

I just ended up buying a new transmission case. I'd love to not have to do that again, so I too am interested in what people are doing to remove these bearings.

-kyri

What do you mean by cut down? Are there pics someplace that show this mod?

-kyri

I have a pick/hook set that I used. I was able to get the point between the bearing and case and pry it out.

I don't have pics at this moment. On the rear camber link, you grind down flat where the inner ball stud mounts. The stock brace sits up .060/2mm or two washers high.

just put the top shaft into the bearing and wobble it and pull lightly at same time the bearing will pop out