At our local we run novice SCT and Pro2 SCT. Pro2 is limited to 13.5 with unlimited timing or 10.5 with blinky and its strictly monitored.

Interestingly enough we also run Novice 4WD SCT and Pro4 SCT. Pro4 is open.

My local track is pretty relaxed on rules. there are a couple of us that run 17.5 blinky and we still beat the guys running CC 3800s and reedy 3300. turn-outs have been pretty bad because of the weather. rains just abit in the morning but the track is fine and nobody shows up, or other tracks in the region are holding a special race. this weekend looking pretty good for weather and no other track has anything planned. that being said i prefer 17.5 blinky and geared to the moon. Might not have the top end as the others but it works great on the infield without spinning the wheels off.

Its time for a new body. I am looking at the contender body right now, but wanted to make sure how others have seen it hold up before I make the purchase.

What is the strongest body that fits the best that you have all seen or used?

I have had good luck with the Jconcepts Raptor high flow body

The jconcepts hi flow #0222 is one of the best outdoor bodies. They are tough and don't kite as bad as most others.
Definitely my next body. You can't go wrong with any jconcepts body.

Got a ft sc10 from a guy who needed a lil bit of cash and got the truck for a steal for 180 and it came with novak 17.5 system, savox serco and even a reciever that I cnt use lol and great set of barcodes all around the truck is n mint condition just had a lil dust n dirt on it from his last run a few months ago. Well anyway took it to the track and it rfan good it came with a setup sheet of chad due whicj was on the truck. It felt good n most turns but it push in others what should I do? It is step for step of the setup and even still has the reg ae springs lol. The servo saver is tight n glued so y am I pushing n sokme turns help please u guys n thanks

Proline Flo-Tek's work very well to!

Im all about the Jconcepts silverado high flo body, looks sick and fits the 3mm wheels nicely

Thanks, I picked it up from A-main for$29 with free shipping. Cant beat that! After reading the reviews on it I am looking forward to painting it up and running it!

The factory bodies are weak!!!!... Proline Flo Tek!!!! Super tough and made in America!!!

I know what you mean, if tracks don't know how, or aren't willing to strictly monitor and enforce rules, no sense in having them. Our track is a prime example, our stock class usually out qualifies our open mod class and its by at least the top 3 guys. Our track rarely checks the ESC and never cares to look at motors...If your so unwilling to want to tech yet still want the concept of a nice STOCK class, simply have a Hand-Out motor class. Track buys locked endbell motors in bulk for probably ~$40-50 a pop, and make them handouts each night for an extra $5 and at the end of your series you keep it, or just sale them and make them mandatory. Esc you will just have to be on top of them, but I believe its motors and excessive timing on the can that have gotten out of hand..

I have noticed that the plastic shock mounting nuts (#6472) are soft and it's very easy to ruin the threads. After that, they are no longer tight and there's some free play on the top end of the shock.

Is there any replacement for these nuts? Preferably metallic nuts which could be tighten without fear of ruining them...

I see what the other guys saying about it being about the same cost except you break and wear out parts much quicker IMO but not a big difference. Also we run 17.5 2s lipo thats the only rules so boost and any other tweaks are allowed so if your going to run 17.5 thats the way to do it. I must agree with you about 17.5 at large events it's very hard to monitor and I understand mod/open is much better at larger events. Our turn-out is around 40-50 racers total for local points series so we can't run all those classes because half of those people race one class either E-Buggy or 4WD SCT open but I believe there's nothing like a nitro buggy or a dialed 2WD sct which takes alot of work and testing which is half the fun to me. On our track I run 37-39 sec. laps with boosted 17.5 2wd SCT and open 4wd runs about 34-36 sec. laps on average so not really much faster than my 2wd but I know it's a dying format and I guess I'd better go get a 8.5 or just run my nitro buggy instead of two classes. Too many rookies trying to drive Pro setups in 4wd (hackers) so I am staying out of that mess at my local track anyway. Also I am the fastest 17.5 guy and leading points so of course I am frustrated.

Question Re Maintenance.

1) How often does everyone rebuild there shocks.
2) How often does everyone rebuild there gear diffs (for those of you still running them)
3) Ho often does everyone lube/replace there bearings.
4) How often does everyone replace there slipper pads?

Had my RS on track now for about 6 packs (re 3 hours running time) and the right rear shock is leaking. Have a rebuild kit, bleeder shock caps and the Kyosho O Rings on the way.

I was thinking of making a standard and doing it every 5 hours (10 or so packs).

1. Not a total rebuild, but flush oil and refill every week.
2. N/A
3. As needed. Some last longer than others. Inspect bearings weekly.
4. Test weekly and will take apart every 2-3 weeks. V2 pads are 2 months old and still good.

All rc shocks are going to leak. The silicone seals are not the strongest and when a shock piston packs, the force will force oil out at the weakest spot.