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Old 05-26-2012 | 05:37 PM
  #12091  
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I purchased the avid hex adapter set for the sc10 and jconcepts hazard wheels w/ 3mm offset. Has anyone else noticed the axle is more narrow then the wheel opening? and will that affect anything?
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Old 05-26-2012 | 07:15 PM
  #12092  
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Originally Posted by DirtRacer68
I purchased the avid hex adapter set for the sc10 and jconcepts hazard wheels w/ 3mm offset. Has anyone else noticed the axle is more narrow then the wheel opening? and will that affect anything?
Nope! It will push tight to hex and I use two of the blue alum. spacers/washers between nut and wheel because the axle threads stop before the wheel gets tight. Avid adapters might be wider and only need the one spacer/washer but not sure.
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Old 05-26-2012 | 07:47 PM
  #12093  
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Originally Posted by elex300
Put a glitch cap on the rx.
I tried that with no luck and today I lost steering and throttle for a slip second or two
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Old 05-26-2012 | 07:56 PM
  #12094  
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Originally Posted by gamedog1966
I tried that with no luck and today I lost steering and throttle for a slip second or two
Well you have 2 options.

1) Run a separate LiFe or NiCD battery to power the esc and rc like I do.

2) Run a seperate UBEC to power your servo and rx.
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Old 05-26-2012 | 08:14 PM
  #12095  
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Originally Posted by savannahmick
Nope! It will push tight to hex and I use two of the blue alum. spacers/washers between nut and wheel because the axle threads stop before the wheel gets tight. Avid adapters might be wider and only need the one spacer/washer but not sure.
The hex fits secure with the wheel but the axle coming out of the wheel is more narrow then the opening.
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Old 05-26-2012 | 09:49 PM
  #12096  
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Originally Posted by DirtRacer68
The hex fits secure with the wheel but the axle coming out of the wheel is more narrow then the opening.
Do you mean the axle does not stick out past the wheel very far? If so are you sure you don't have a set of rear hex adapters on the front by mistake?
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Old 05-26-2012 | 10:01 PM
  #12097  
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Originally Posted by MX304
Do you mean the axle does not stick out past the wheel very far? If so are you sure you don't have a set of rear hex adapters on the front by mistake?
No, there is plenty of threads and the hex fits well also. It's the hole that the threaded axle comes out of the wheel from, which is bigger. Should I be concerned or will everything snug-down when the axle nut is tightened down?
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Old 05-26-2012 | 10:19 PM
  #12098  
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Originally Posted by DirtRacer68
No, there is plenty of threads and the hex fits well also. It's the hole that the threaded axle comes out of the wheel from, which is bigger. Should I be concerned or will everything snug-down when the axle nut is tightened down?
It's only bigger so it can fit other axles too. It'll tighten up fine against the hex adapter. No need for washers or shims with Avid hexes.
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Old 05-26-2012 | 11:08 PM
  #12099  
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Originally Posted by Cloaked
Well you have 2 options.

1) Run a separate LiFe or NiCD battery to power the esc and rc like I do.

2) Run a seperate UBEC to power your servo and rx.
i know that the reciever is my prob cause i have used the servo in another car and it did just fine and also the esc and the esc use to b my buddies and we use to run this truck together at the track a few times a week, what i been thinkin about doing is just sending in the reciever back to futaba and get it replaced
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Old 05-27-2012 | 12:36 AM
  #12100  
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Originally Posted by KMinster
A few pages back, I read where someone converted their SC10 to a T4 stadium truck. What parts are required to make that conversion?

I'm assuming:

1) T4 chassis
2) Wheels and tires
3) Body

What other parts are required?

Thanks for the help.
chassis, wheels and tires(if you have reg axles on your sc10, if not you will need front axles and spindles and spacers for the rear), body mounts(front and rear), front bumper, battery strap and body.
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Old 05-27-2012 | 03:46 AM
  #12101  
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Originally Posted by gamedog1966
i know that the reciever is my prob cause i have used the servo in another car and it did just fine and also the esc and the esc use to b my buddies and we use to run this truck together at the track a few times a week, what i been thinkin about doing is just sending in the reciever back to futaba and get it replaced
Try running your Servo and RX off of a seperate battery pack.

You will most likely find that the ESC you have cannot provide enough power to the power hungry servo and RX.

Its a common problem when using Spektrum gear and Savox servo's.
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Old 05-27-2012 | 07:36 AM
  #12102  
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Originally Posted by gamedog1966
Yeah man I have the c hubs and they are good, now ik having electrical probs man. Idk what it is I'm racing and all of a sudden I lose steering, the servo is perfect I took it out my b4 and I wrked perfect but i. Think it may b the reciever its a futaba r2104gf
Originally Posted by gamedog1966
I tried that with no luck and today I lost steering and throttle for a slip second or two
Originally Posted by gamedog1966
i know that the reciever is my prob cause i have used the servo in another car and it did just fine and also the esc and the esc use to b my buddies and we use to run this truck together at the track a few times a week, what i been thinkin about doing is just sending in the reciever back to futaba and get it replaced
I had a similar situation and it was my RX. I would lose both steering and throttle.
Can you see or hear your ESC rebooting when this happens?
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Old 05-27-2012 | 08:01 AM
  #12103  
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Has anyone tried running the rcshox garodisc slipper pads on a 2wd Sc10? Interested to hear your thoughts if so.

-kyri
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Old 05-27-2012 | 08:17 AM
  #12104  
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My sons and I run 3 sc10's 2wd with the Garo's. They offer more punch than stock, more consistency pack to pack, and they don't wear or fade at all. We have about 10 packs apiece on the garo's and I would not go back to the stock.
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Old 05-27-2012 | 09:38 AM
  #12105  
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Originally Posted by J_Bone
I had a similar situation and it was my RX. I would lose both steering and throttle.
Can you see or hear your ESC rebooting when this happens?
idk if it starts rebooting cause im in the driver stand when it does it so i cant hear anything frokm that distance lol. but it is something that happens everyday so far, it normally is hit or miss it may go a entire battery pack before it does it and then it may do it couple times during a 5-7 lap tune run
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