wouldnt tightening it down all the way stop it from slipping tho?

or once it has slipped will it slip even when cranked down all the way?

Are you talking about tightening the diff or the slipper all the way down?

If you have the diff tightened all the way and its still slipping, then there is a problem somewhere.

With ball diffs, once they start slipping, they will become gritty very quickly as the main balls get rounded off.

Ive never had issues with my AE diffs using standard (unsanded) rings and balls. Just make sure you run them a little tighter first run as they will loosen a little. After the first run, re-set and then they last for ages.

Ray

Thought I'd share
 

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...69555502_n.jpg

Picture from Rifle Remote Control Park Rifle CO

This really happened. I was not there but a friend took the picture.:D

Hi! I got a brushless setup Speed Passion SCT Master and v3.0 17.5 comp. motor. Anyway the motor has a vented motor case should I cover the vents when running on loose track? I read in the review that when they were testing on loose track they covered vents to keep dirt out. Also what gearing are you guys running with 17.5 motor 28/75 is recommended I believe? Any info/advice on setting up new 17.5 Speed Passion system? Thanks!

Danggg, that SC10 must have been movingggg. I truly didn't know a body would even crumple in like that. I bet the Losi guy wasn't too happy bout that.

I know, this is exactly what I am trying to say. Just b/c the spring says it is rated at a certain #, it doesn't necessarily mean anything. I am not talking about the 22T Silver Fronts (5181), I am infact talking about the Silver Rears (5171). I had the Silver rears (5171) on my front end, and they are rated at 3.4. However, they didn't feel stiff enough for me. So, yesterday I went to my LHS and picked up a pair of 22 buggy black fronts (5177) and are rated at 4.1. However, they are muchhhh shorter then the silver rears I had on prior. And of course, after I installed the black fronts (had to turn the retainer down all the way to the bottom thread to make it fit) it was still softer then the 3.4 rate Silver rear I had on before.

Gr.... I am so done with these Losi springs, I don't know what the hype about them is. I agree they look sick, but I am really bummed about the lack of options that they present. I mean, I have been trying for 2 weeks to make it work (and spent over $40 in parts) and have a set of AE springs in the toolbox that work perfectly. I think I'm gonna have to switch back to what I know works. :(

My truck works great with them...
 

I run Losi rear 22 springs all the way around on my truck. Reds and Oranges. They work very well.
TEX

Just making fun.....
 

The only reason that Losi driver would be mad is because he clearly got knocked out the passenger side window!

Hope the AE guy can get all that Losi off his front bumper. In onroad, there is a saying for that... PDUB rub.

:ha:
TEX

I'm thinking the Losi guy had his truck sideways on the track. Probably deserved to be smashed into. :lol::lol::lol:

Short Bus Yaaaay. Notice both trucks are running RTR bodies? I bet it went something like this. It was practice and Losi driver didn't call back straight, or he did and AE driver said "Huh?", and went full wood anyway.

Lake, what is your truck doing that makes you feel like stiffer springs are needed up front?

I really like my red front grey rear stock spring set up. What would get me real close in the TLR conversion? Also, I assume you ONLY can use the 22T springs? Please advise. I already have the Traxxas parts. Thanks!!!

thanks for the advise :)

yeah i tightened the ball diff down all the way and it still slips under load

also im no newb I have built many rc kits over the years and tons on ball diffs :weird:

If you have checked the ball diff and cant find a problem, make sure your rotor magnets havent become delaminated from the motor shaft. It makes a similar sound to the diff. Take the pinion off, hold the wheels and see if you can push the spur with your hands. If you cant make the ball diff slip, check the motor!

Ray

was thinking that might be the case, but it does the problem with 2 different motors and one was fine in another car.

also if the magnet was to come loose from the shaft, would it spin easyier the more it slips until it was almost undrivable? this does not happen, it has stayed the same

I have tried holding the shaft without a pinion on it with plyers with medium force and pulling thotle half way, but it doesnt make the noise and instantly comes loose from the plyers so i assumed that the rotor was fine.

think i might get a gear diff and see if it solves the issue

Whats the go with a standard starting point for slipper setting,

manual says 0.5mm of thread showing from nut, and racer53 guide says as per factory team specs 3.5 turns in from flush nut, what gives????

0.5mm as per manual seams to slip like crazy!

racer53 says he has v2 slipper so should it not be the same as the manual?