This is a mess, so let's set all the records straight here...

These are all the problems:
Don't do this, it's answered below.

This is the issue:
This is not quite a complete answer:
I've seen this on another forum and it's caused by people trying to put an old T4/B4 ball diff into the new SC10/T4.1/B4.1 diff case, which doesn't work because the case and outdrives have changed (as Asharus explained). There are two solutions:
1) Buy new outdrives and bearings. This is a fairly expensive route.
2) Buy the T4/B4 ball diff case and a T4/B4 rear chassis plate. This is really cheap (5-6 bucks), but could leave you or a future owner very confused.

I hope this helps.

Why are so many people switching to a gear diff? I also see this happening with the 22 buggy. The ball diff is great on both kits.:confused:

I've ran both the ball diff and the gear diff (prefer the ball diff only because I'm old school and like to stick with the stuff I'm comfortable with). One of the big reasons is the "set it and forget rule", it doesn't need as much attention as the ball diff does. The last gear diff I had, I ran for a month at a time and didn't need to bother with it. Where as with a ball diff needs constant attention to make sure it stays smooth.

I would also say that with the wide assortment of diff fluid out there that adjustability is also an answer as to why a lot of the vehicles are going to gear diffs, but I find the ball diff has plenty of adjustment to do the job. In the end it boils down to personal preference and how you want your vehicle to handle for you.

Hope that helps.

Wasn't a problem for me with the 2 I have upgraded from the B4 to the B4.1/SC10 parts.
Worked just fine

:)

I've seen this on another forum and it's caused by people trying to put an old T4/B4 ball diff into the new SC10/T4.1/B4.1 diff case, which doesn't work because the case and outdrives have changed (as Asharus explained). There are two solutions:
1) Buy new outdrives and bearings. This is a fairly expensive route.
2) Buy the T4/B4 ball diff case and a T4/B4 rear chassis plate. This is really cheap (5-6 bucks), but could leave you or a future owner very confused.

I hope this helps.[/QUOTE]

I have purchased a brand new updated F/T ball diff, I purchased all brand new bearings straight out of the F/T parts breakdown and I purchased the case out of the same catalog. It does not fit. I have since purchased a ball diff case that was taken out of a F/T kit off of ebay. Hopefully this will solve my issue.

Yeah but to adjust the gear diff you have to take it apart to change the fluid which to me is time consuming. The ball diff just needs the screw adjusted which takes seconds and is better for a racing situation in my opinion. Like you said it's just personal prefference. I'll stick with ball diffs:nod:.

Finally finished it up today. The build went pretty easy. The only thing I don't like is how the rear springs rub against the shock body. But from what I've read in this thread there is'nt much you can do about that unless you use a different manufacturers springs. I'd like to stick with the AE springs since I bought the FR and RR spring kits already. Thanks for answering all my questions over the past few days. Will see how 2wd SC goes this week.

You can order this:

http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB2903

Keep the spring buckets, and toss out the rest. You need to massage the springs over the buckets, but they stay centered on the shock and don't drag as much.

It's not Koyosho reds in the rear, I'm certain of it!

For some.reason my ball diff kept loosening up. I had a spare mip ready to go so all is well.
My old ball diff was in dire need of being rebuilt, it was caked and sticky grease in there not good.

Does anyone have a good setup for very low traction, hard surface, dusty, sandy, clay track?
Will those Pressure Points work better than a double dee? I could not get rear tractuon even with 4 deg toe plate and 0.5 deg hubs and weight in the rear.

I am trying Maifields.setup on a similar track cond to see if itll help.

I think kyosho pink is the soft one.

Maybe. I ordered Yellow and got Red on accident.

TLR 12mm Pinks are just a bit stiffer than AE greens - wire size is about .002 bigger. TLR 12mm Orange are a bit stiffer than AE blue - wire size is about .001 bigger. I ran TLR Orange F and Pink R today. Interesting not having the springs rub.

I was gonna do the conversion today but forgot the Losi part no's.. fail...

Can upload a pic of your truck? What track conditions did you run on? How did it feel?

Craig-Did you run the buggy springs or did you find some truck ones? Haven't been able to find the 22T springs yet.