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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

mxracer458 10-14-2011 07:51 AM


Originally Posted by skengines (Post 9781306)
I checked that last night when I replaced the bearing. Both sides have the same size crush tube.

Maybe it needs to be replaced?

if you overtighten the wheel it will toast the bearings

SpraydbySprague 10-14-2011 07:54 AM


Originally Posted by skengines (Post 9781152)
Anyone have issue with toasting the hub carrier bearings? I am using the FT blue aluminum hub carriers and it seems to ONLY be my right side that is getting toasted.

Double check the axle shims. Make sure they are the same on left and right.

CraigMBA 10-14-2011 07:57 AM


Originally Posted by skengines (Post 9781306)
I checked that last night when I replaced the bearing. Both sides have the same size crush tube.

Maybe it needs to be replaced?

Maybe they are both wrong. The crush tube is different for the big bearing than the stock SC10 hubs.

The part number is #7933, and they measure 0.160" if you want to check yours.


Originally Posted by mxracer458 (Post 9781381)
if you overtighten the wheel it will toast the bearings

Only if there is something wrong with the crush tube. If it is installed and the correct size, you can crank down on it right up till you strip the threads and it will still spin free.

The FRONT has no crush tube and you can absolutely cause problems by overtightening if you use the Proline inboard carriers.

skengines 10-14-2011 09:16 AM

I did have more slop on the left side (where bearing didn't get toasted) so I added one more shim and it got rid of the excess slop so both sides have very minimal play.

I will replace the crush tube and see if that helps.

Thanks guys

SpraydbySprague 10-14-2011 09:29 AM


Originally Posted by skengines (Post 9781736)
I did have more slop on the left side (where bearing didn't get toasted) so I added one more shim and it got rid of the excess slop so both sides have very minimal play.

I will replace the crush tube and see if that helps.

Thanks guys

I would go back and remove 1 shim from each side. Think about it, you had more slop on the left without the bearing problem. Then you added a shim to the left have the same minimal play as the right with the bearing problem.

CostieMK 10-14-2011 10:21 AM

Need Set up help
 
I just put in a tekin RS pro S/C with an Orion 17.5 i used one of the generic set ups from tekin that I installed with the hot wire. I feel like I have lost a lot of speed and I am only coming off the track at 105 after a 10 min qualifier on my motor temp. Any advice or any good set ups. :confused:

nitro0619 10-14-2011 10:24 AM


Originally Posted by SpraydbySprague (Post 9781779)
I would go back and remove 1 shim from each side. Think about it, you had more slop on the left without the bearing problem. Then you added a shim to the left have the same minimal play as the right with the bearing problem.

+1 u want a lil slop

Asharus 10-14-2011 10:28 AM


Originally Posted by CostieMK (Post 9781951)
I just put in a tekin RS pro S/C with an Orion 17.5 i used one of the generic set ups from tekin that I installed with the hot wire. I feel like I have lost a lot of speed and I am only coming off the track at 105 after a 10 min qualifier on my motor temp. Any advice or any good set ups. :confused:

What gearing? Boost or timing?

mxracer458 10-14-2011 10:53 AM


Originally Posted by RunAsharus (Post 9781976)
What gearing? Boost or timing?

run 45-50 on boost depending on your endbell timing,.I run on a fairly large I door track a d I ran 10 on turbo,depending on your track size my rpm was 1500-13000 on rpm with geAring at 84-22 but some others go up or down on pinion,my motor alwYs ran at 135

skengines 10-14-2011 11:24 AM

Good point.

Yeah it seemed like too much slop which is why I added a shim.

Thanks

CostieMK 10-14-2011 12:47 PM


Originally Posted by Asharus (Post 9781976)
What gearing? Boost or timing?

Im running 75/28 and boost im running 45 with a start rpm of 5443 and end at 20000. It looks like im going to have to mess with my gearing to get some more speed

mxracer458 10-14-2011 01:00 PM


Originally Posted by CostieMK (Post 9782448)
Im running 75/28 and boost im running 45 with a start rpm of 5443 and end at 20000. It looks like im going to have to mess with my gearing to get some more speed

if you lower your start and end rpm you power will come on sooner,for indoor its good,but if your running outdoors those are good rpms

Asharus 10-14-2011 01:22 PM

Wow with that gearing and boost you're not temping hot at all? That's my current gearing on blinky non boost mode. It comes off at 170+ after an 8 min main and 45 deg on my Novak Ballistic endbell (up 15 deg from stock 30).

That was on a Novak Havoc Pro SC though, I replaced it this week with a Tekin RS. I'll have to wait and see what happens this weekend.

Edit: I'm assuming you recalibrated the ESC when you switched it out. Use 100% EPA

20 SMOKE 10-14-2011 02:32 PM

i run a 25/78 in timing profile 4 and come off 120* with a 13.5

DuckStang 10-14-2011 07:00 PM

Hey guys, just came form the track. Got there late and registered, yada yada yada, put the truck on the track and this thing is loose. Stock tire/wheel combo running on carpet with jumps with a 17.5 non timing. 40 oil in all shocks, green springs in the back, silver front. It seems like it enters the corner fine, midway it gives out and ass end comes around. What do you guys recommend??? Softer springs in the back and lower on the shock oil???


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