You mean they start to eat away at that lip and it creates a gap, right? I'll order up the alum rears. The fronts don't have that big cliff. Makes perfect sense.

That's what I thought with the AL hexes I was finding. I like that drilling into the plastic with a setscrew. That's brilliant.

Yeah, FT kit. Want a nice clean transition over to hexes using AE stuff if possible. I used your list for my ordering, And I really appreciate you putting one together.

I'm considering it because I honestly don't want to hassle with a balldiff. That Thrust bearing is the $^#@&! Devil. Maybe I'll just get a kit and build it as a backup till I get some opinions.

I 'really' want AE to build the T4/B4/SC10 version of the Shocks that came on the SC104x4. What a fantastic shock. Scale it down just a bit and wow. We need big bores like Losi. I know we're doing just fine, but that 22 Platform is a bitchin' setup.

I'd suggest you read this post before you buy any axles.

I use Jconcepts in the rear, and the Proline pieces in the front. If I had Hazard wheels I wouldn't care what axles I have, but I don't, so with the spacers the Prolines are better.

All that's documented, and their own respective problems, in the above thread.

My SC10 2w is just PLUSH to drive. It must feel like an outcast, I never work on it. My 4w gets all the attention, and it's a bucket.

Now i'm running a little lost. Are you saying the RSspec Sc10 has this bearing crush problem too? Doing a pure AE swap from RSspec will bring it to Zero offset won't it? That's how the RS RtR is at my shop right now? I was under the assumption that the SC10RS was zero offset and all's well. (assuming from visually expecting it myself.)

I think i'm missing something.

Just finished building my FT SC10. Love the truck so far. Quick question though. The rear springs are really rubbing the shock bodies. This was the case on my B4.1 also, but as we all have fond using the TLR, or K spring fixed this issue and also made the buggy handle better. Is there such a solution for the SC10? Will the 4x4 BB shocks fit on the the 2wd, or maybe just the springs?

Just finished mine too. Rubbing baaaaad.

I just finished my kit and its butter. Forgot to order rear bearings for my b44 hubs.

Nice find, they look great

http://www.gpm-parts.com/shop/produc...roducts_id=190

He has a good point. I have had my RS for a while now and I have not had any problems with the front Hex, nor has anyone else I race with,.

The Stock RS keep the factory offset. I have ran the Hazard wheels with the 3mm offset they work great,

I also am reading the Proline kit has more slop than the RS stuff,

Just my opinion. Either way will work. I just like the factory parts better,

I like the p/l hex setup in the front because you can adjust the spindle height.

What are the typical tires you run on :

- clay (track)?
- bashing ?
- street (concrete)?
- astro (track)?

I need a tire that doesn't wear too fast even on hard surfaces but with a good grip in the dust/clay too, do you have any suggestion?

No. The RS spec pieces use a c clip on the axle for thrust. When you tension the wheel nut down, it puts the inner race into crush, which is no problem.

The Proline piece has no crush bearing (because of the hinge pin location) and works fine as long as you know that and tighten up the wheel nut very carefully. It is harder on bearings.

That's right.

If you use Hazard wheels, the RS stuff is fine and bolts right on. I have a years worth of Rulux wheels and tires so I need the axles to be longer so I can space them out.

The only thing wrong with the AE RS stuff is the axle is too short if you are trying to space it. And the plastic hex is kind of lame.

The only thing wrong with the Proline stuff is the axle has no way to control crush when you tighten it down, and as a result, it's kind of hard on bearings.

Why proline can't machine a notch in their axle for the c clip is beyond me. Why AE doesn't make longer axles is also beyond me. Both of those two running changes would make two perfect products, but between now and then we have to pick our poison.

Well, I picked up a "lightly" used RS RTR version this week. Wanted to hold out for the FT but this deal was too good to pass up.

The original rear hexes were shot, $5 later and I was good to go.

Raced it last night, ran it w/ the stock esc and 3300kv motor.

Other than accidently turning the D/R down to 80% for the second round everything went fine. I didn't know what was going on in that second round. Dang thing turned like a cruise ship.

Qualified 3rd, ended up winning the A-main. Nice......

A few of the fast guys were absent though, we'll see when they show back up.

Had a good time and got to run a second class, which was the goal. E 1/8 never has enough to run a class...

HEY GUYS JUST WONDERING WHAT GEARING SHOULD I USE IF I HAVE A LRP 5.0 TURN MOTOR ON MY SC10 ALSO WHAT TIRES DO YOU USE FOR INDOOR CLAY TRACKS??

I am sorry but with all that listed in your sig and sticking a 5T motor in a SC10. Do you really need to ask that question?

I put the rs hex axle up front and use the STRC hex adaptors on all four, love the fact they are held in place by a set screw. I use the SC10 4x4 premounts or rims without any issues.